AussieDunc Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 Hey, Started the new project will hopefully keep track of the build here: https://www.instagram.com/duncandats510/ Engine: KA24DET Forged Exhaust Manifold: ISR Performance Ram Horn Top Mount Manifold Intake: CNC'd from Custom Alloy Welding (Australia) Turbo: Pulsar GT 30/76 R Turbo VBand, Turbo smart 50mm Waste Gate, Turbo smart Fuel reg andgauge Injectors: 1200cc Coils: R35 GTR Pistons: CP Pistons and rings 8.5:1 comp Rods: Carrillo H beam rods with ARP Bolts Bearings: ACL Race bearings Main and Big ends (Including Gurdle from other KA) Studs: 32mm ARP Head Stud kit, Main Stud kit Cams: Kelford Camshafts 272 x 2 Springs: Kelford Heavy duty Valve springs Oil Pump: Billet High Volunm Oil Pump Gears Trigger Kit: ATI Dampener with custom kit Other: Full timing chain kit All gaskets and seals/O rings, brass welsh Plugs etc. Dash 10 Fittings for rocker cover Second hand Gurdle from Canada. Black braid hose and fittings Fully sleeved block Machine work: Machine knife edge crankshaft Line bore block to crankshaft including Stock girdle Line bore head to camshafts Deck block Balance all parts oversized head studs Linebore and sleeve pistons Acid bath/Rust remover soaker tank Hot pressure wash all parts Transmission: CD009 350Z 6 Speed (Converted) Clutch: Parts. Xtreme Single plate Heavy duty clutch kit with lightened Flywheel and ARP Bolts. Front Brakes: Wilwood 6 Pot - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/front-brake-kit-wilwood-6-piston Front Suspension: Mad Dat fully adjustable shorted 200B struts and King Springs with KYB Inserts - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/ultimate-race-coilover-strut-kit Brake Booster: Mad Dat - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/mad-dat-brake-booster-and-master-kit Diff: R200 Long Nose Housing (From a Z31 - Open Centre) Diff Centre: NISMO GT L.S.D.pro 2-Way (Part Number 38420RSS20-B5) Output side flanges: 5 x 1 (Came with the Nismo GT LSD pro kit) Modified for the porche CV's (6x1) from Mark Axisa in NSW Australia (Contact from Facebook Only) CV Shafts: Custom billet porche 6 x 1 CV's from Mark Axisa in NSW Australia (Contact from Facebook Only) Output stub axles: Custom billet 6 x 1 flanges, well oversized from Mark Axisa in NSW Australia (Contact from Facebook Only) Rear Brakes: Mad Dat Wilwood - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/rear-brake-kit-wilwood Rear Suspension: King Springs: - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-or-180b-610-lowered-rear-springs Rear Shock Absorbers: https://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-or-180b-610-lowered-rear-springs Rear Crossmember adjustment: Mad Dat DIY Adjustable rear cross member- https://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-or-180b-610-adjustable-rear-crossmember-diy-kit Rear Crossmember exhaust hold: Extending exhaust hole to 4" Fuel Tank - Mad Dat - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-aluminium-fuel-tank-with-new-billet-aluminium-filler-cap-and-header-plate ECU: Haltech 1500 Wideband: Haltech NTK Knock Sensor: Bosch Temp+Pressure: Bosch Pressure Sensor Combined PST-F 1 Flex Fuel: EFI FLEX FUEL SENSOR - E85 CONTENT ANALYSER 2 Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 Removed the rear cross member getting ready to install the Mad Dat DIY Adjustable rear cross member- https://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-or-180b-610-adjustable-rear-crossmember-diy-kit Figure it best to complete this first before cutting out the 4" exhaust hole! 2 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 Looks like someone has this planned out. I'll keep an eye out for this thread. I also like the license plate on the wall. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 I assume the floor will need some work to get the CD009 in there?? 1 Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 6 hours ago, KELMO said: Looks like someone has this planned out. I'll keep an eye out for this thread. I also like the license plate on the wall. Thanks mate! Engine is waiting for the girdle from Canada to arrive so it can get tunnel bored. R200 waiting for Nismo centre and shafts. Rear end started! 6 hours ago, datzenmike said: I assume the floor will need some work to get the CD009 in there?? Yeah correct - I haven't researched this too much, just know the box is huge. Might see if I can get a 350z trans tunnel! Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 More please 1 Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Installed MadDat adjustable rear cross member kit - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-or-180b-610-adjustable-rear-crossmember-diy-kit Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Making the 4" hole for the exhaust! Damn!!!! After cutting the hole - Hmm makes it look very thin!!! Have to do something about it!! Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Reinforcing 4" hole - Had a few ideas to reinforce this was the easiest and quickest option by far. Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Reinforcing 4" Hole V2 - Decided to put a piece of flat bar going from top to bottom just in case!! Was easy enough cant hurt Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Plasma cut and welded in 4" pipe (Excuse the freehand plasma cutting and dogey welding, will grind the crap out of it :P) Bit of research went into this one. Visited the local exhaust shop to see the Outside Diameter of the 3" VBand Flange, it was 95mm. The 4" pipe had thick wall's so my Inside Diameter was 93mm :(. Had to get some thinner walled pipe which I got from the exhaust shop. Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 When I was at the exhaust shop, got one of the exhaust mount's they use. He said they weld a tab onto the exhaust I just needed to weld some flat bar and mount onto the cross member! Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Will grind and buff it up, then send for sand blasting.. Waiting on the Nismo (38420-RS020-B) LSD to arrive! Then it will go into my R200, the kit comes with 5x1 shafts which is what I need for the porche CV's. Waiting on engine, still at the engine shop, gurdle arrived from canada today! Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted December 7, 2021 Report Share Posted December 7, 2021 Great work, looks like this will be able to take some power 1 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted December 9, 2021 Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 Hey man, welcome. Nice to have another Aussie on ratsun. That's a VERY clean 1600 there. Looks like you're throwing the whole maddat catalogue at it. Should be fun! Where abouts are you in Aust? 1 Quote Link to comment
sick620 Posted December 9, 2021 Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 this thing will be nuts. like the vision. 1 Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 2 hours ago, slowlearner said: Hey man, welcome. Nice to have another Aussie on ratsun. That's a VERY clean 1600 there. Looks like you're throwing the whole maddat catalogue at it. Should be fun! Where abouts are you in Aust? Hey mate, yeah mainly went with maddat because I wanted the matching wilwood calipers 🤣. I am in brisbane! Message me on Instagram if your local. https://www.instagram.com/duncandats510/ 1 Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 Spent a fair bit of time researching the intake manifolds for the KA24. Unlike SR20's (Overpriced, weak, alloy block rubbish :P) there is nothing quality out there off the shelf. The only thing available is from "Nice time tuning" which isnt the standard I am chasing. "Xcessive" who were the only other supplier has closed down! Custom intake manifold underway in the design phase. I found a guy from Mt Isa, Australia who specialises in Barra manifolds to make me one up. Version 1 - Initial Design! Version 2 - He is going back to the drawing table to better flow the triangle shaped standard port for the KA. Make the oval a bit more Triangle shaped and pull the injector back. Factory KA24 and some work "Custom Alloy Welding" @ Mt Isa, Australia do! 1 Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 Now that the rear end has finished it's modifications. Time to start cleaning it up! Will try shorten it for the next one but these are the steps I took for the first control arm, bit in it: 1. Sandblasted most of the control arm especially the hard access areas 2. Wire wheeled all remaining areas, big areas that take too long to sandblast. 3. Wire brushed really hard to get to areas. 4. Chiselled the original 1972 splatter off. 5. Final touch up with a flapper disc. 6. heavy duty degreaser watered down, (super cheap auto), and rinsed with water. 7. Wax and grim final wipe down(super cheap auto brand) 8. Primed (Supercheap heavy duty primer) 9. Por15 etch primed - This hasnt been completed yet, paint arriving tomorrow. Before: After stripping and cleaning: After priming, ready for POR15 final coat: 1 Quote Link to comment
RyanC Posted December 9, 2021 Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 Nice plans for the 1600. Rear member looking the business. 1 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted December 9, 2021 Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 53 minutes ago, AussieDunc said: Now that the rear end has finished it's modifications. Time to start cleaning it up! Will try shorten it for the next one but these are the steps I took for the first control arm, bit in it: 1. Sandblasted most of the control arm especially the hard access areas 2. Wire wheeled all remaining areas, big areas that take too long to sandblast. 3. Wire brushed really hard to get to areas. 4. Chiselled the original 1972 splatter off. 5. Final touch up with a flapper disc. 6. heavy duty degreaser watered down, (super cheap auto), and rinsed with water. 7. Wax and grim final wipe down(super cheap auto brand) 8. Primed (Supercheap heavy duty primer) 9. Por15 etch primed - This hasnt been completed yet, paint arriving tomorrow. Before: After stripping and cleaning: After priming, ready for POR15 final coat: Are you keeping the coils or fitting coilovers? Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 42 minutes ago, slowlearner said: Are you keeping the coils or fitting coilovers? Keeping the coil's for now, might move to coil overs pending how this drives. 1 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted December 10, 2021 Report Share Posted December 10, 2021 I guess it depends what you want to do with it. I've got coils and bilsteins in mine. Drives nice, but I'm not circuit racing. Just dailying and the odd khana. Cool to see a KA24DET down here. There are lots in the US but I haven't seen many here. Stewart Wilkins was spruking the KA24 to me over a 2.3l L20B stroker. Quote Link to comment
RyanC Posted December 13, 2021 Report Share Posted December 13, 2021 On 12/10/2021 at 2:45 PM, slowlearner said: I guess it depends what you want to do with it. I've got coils and bilsteins in mine. Drives nice, but I'm not circuit racing. Just dailying and the odd khana. Cool to see a KA24DET down here. There are lots in the US but I haven't seen many here. Stewart Wilkins was spruking the KA24 to me over a 2.3l L20B stroker. Yeah I haven't seen many down under in my 20 plus years of Datsuns. How do they go for room under the hood? The L20 used to only just fit. Are they similar block height or taller? Ryan Quote Link to comment
AussieDunc Posted December 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2021 1 hour ago, RyanC said: Yeah I haven't seen many down under in my 20 plus years of Datsuns. How do they go for room under the hood? The L20 used to only just fit. Are they similar block height or taller? Ryan KA24's are becoming more popular in Australia due to SR20 price, not surprised Stuart Wilkins recomended. Personally I think I will get more out of an iron block 2.4L that frankly has a better factory head design and oil squirters. SR20 DET only came out with squirters. Regarding the height, from my research it's a very similar conversion to an SR, reversed crossmember and height are very similar. SR20's and Australian d22 KA24s(Japanese built) both come out with a front mount oil pan hence the reversed crossmember. However I got a sump and pickup from Canada out of another ka24 that has the sump on the back so hoping I won't have to reverse it, think it's the Mexican made KA. Will tell you mid January when I get the engine back from the builder. 2 Quote Link to comment
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