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Aussie Snot - 510 Build


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Hey,

Started the new project will hopefully keep track of the build here:

 

https://www.instagram.com/duncandats510/

 

Engine: KA24DET Forged

Exhaust Manifold: ISR Performance Ram Horn Top Mount Manifold

Intake: CNC'd from Custom Alloy Welding (Australia)

Turbo: Pulsar GT 30/76 R Turbo VBand, Turbo smart 50mm Waste Gate, Turbo smart Fuel reg andgauge

Injectors: 1200cc

Coils: R35 GTR

Pistons: CP Pistons and rings 8.5:1 comp
Rods: Carrillo H beam rods with ARP Bolts
Bearings: ACL Race bearings Main and Big ends (Including Gurdle from other KA)
Studs: 32mm ARP Head Stud kit, Main Stud kit
Cams: Kelford Camshafts 272 x 2
Springs: Kelford Heavy duty Valve springs
Oil Pump: Billet High Volunm Oil Pump Gears

Trigger Kit: ATI Dampener with custom kit

Other: Full timing chain kit
All gaskets and seals/O rings, brass welsh Plugs etc.
Dash 10 Fittings for rocker cover

Second hand Gurdle from Canada.
Black braid hose and fittings

Fully sleeved block

 

Machine work:

Machine knife edge crankshaft

Line bore block to crankshaft including 

Stock girdle
Line bore head to camshafts

Deck block

Balance all parts

oversized head studs

Linebore and sleeve pistons


Acid bath/Rust remover soaker tank
Hot pressure wash all parts
 

Transmission: CD009 350Z 6 Speed (Converted)

Clutch: Parts. Xtreme Single plate Heavy duty clutch kit with lightened Flywheel and ARP Bolts.

 

Front Brakes: Wilwood 6 Pot - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/front-brake-kit-wilwood-6-piston

Front Suspension: Mad Dat fully adjustable shorted 200B struts and King Springs with KYB Inserts - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/ultimate-race-coilover-strut-kit

Brake Booster: Mad Dat - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/mad-dat-brake-booster-and-master-kit

 

Diff: R200 Long Nose Housing (From a Z31 - Open Centre)

Diff Centre: NISMO GT L.S.D.pro 2-Way (Part Number 38420RSS20-B5)

Output side flanges: 5 x 1 (Came with the Nismo GT LSD pro kit) Modified for the porche CV's (6x1) from Mark Axisa in NSW Australia (Contact from Facebook Only)

CV Shafts: Custom billet porche 6 x 1 CV's from Mark Axisa in NSW Australia (Contact from Facebook Only)

Output stub axles: Custom billet 6 x 1 flanges, well oversized from Mark Axisa in NSW Australia (Contact from Facebook Only)

Rear Brakes: Mad Dat Wilwood - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/rear-brake-kit-wilwood

Rear Suspension: King Springs:  - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-or-180b-610-lowered-rear-springs

Rear Shock Absorbershttps://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-or-180b-610-lowered-rear-springs

Rear Crossmember adjustment: Mad Dat DIY Adjustable rear cross member- https://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-or-180b-610-adjustable-rear-crossmember-diy-kit

Rear Crossmember exhaust hold: Extending exhaust hole to 4"

 

Fuel Tank - Mad Dat - https://www.maddat.com.au/products/datsun-1600-510-aluminium-fuel-tank-with-new-billet-aluminium-filler-cap-and-header-plate

 

ECU: Haltech 1500

Wideband: Haltech NTK

Knock Sensor: Bosch

Temp+Pressure: Bosch Pressure Sensor Combined PST-F 1

Flex Fuel: EFI FLEX FUEL SENSOR - E85 CONTENT ANALYSER

 

ILodHqP.jpegaFbxPmI.jpeg

 

 

EmdTcsL.jpegfsKTQsW.jpeg

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6 hours ago, KELMO said:

Looks like someone has this planned out.

I'll keep an eye out for this thread.

 

I also like the license plate on the wall.

Thanks mate! Engine is waiting for the girdle from Canada to arrive so it can get tunnel bored. R200 waiting for Nismo centre and shafts. Rear end started!

6 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I assume the floor will need some work to get the CD009 in there??

Yeah correct - I haven't researched this too much, just know the box is huge. Might see if I can get a 350z trans tunnel!

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Plasma cut and welded in 4" pipe (Excuse the freehand plasma cutting and dogey welding, will grind the crap out of it :P)
 

Bit of research went into this one. Visited the local exhaust shop to see the Outside Diameter of the 3" VBand Flange, it was 95mm. The 4" pipe had thick wall's so my Inside Diameter was 93mm :(. Had to get some thinner walled pipe which I got from the exhaust shop.

 

uprF5xt.jpegrTOEgFA.jpeg

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Will grind and buff it up, then send for sand blasting..

 

Waiting on the Nismo (38420-RS020-B) LSD to arrive! Then it will go into my R200, the kit comes with 5x1 shafts which is what I need for the porche CV's.

 

Waiting on engine, still at the engine shop, gurdle arrived from canada today!

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2 hours ago, slowlearner said:

Hey man, welcome. Nice to have another Aussie on ratsun. That's a VERY clean 1600 there. Looks like you're throwing the whole maddat catalogue at it. Should be fun! Where abouts are you in Aust?

Hey mate, yeah mainly went with maddat because I wanted the matching wilwood calipers 🤣. I am in brisbane! Message me on Instagram if your local.

 

https://www.instagram.com/duncandats510/

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Spent a fair bit of time researching the intake manifolds for the KA24. Unlike SR20's (Overpriced, weak, alloy block rubbish :P) there is nothing quality out there off the shelf. The only thing available is from "Nice time tuning" which isnt the standard I am chasing. "Xcessive" who were the only other supplier has closed down!

 

Custom intake manifold underway in the design phase. I found a guy from Mt Isa, Australia who specialises in Barra manifolds to make me one up.

 

Version 1 - Initial Design!

 

DGx4FWJ.jpgNe4rexr.jpg

 

Version 2 - He is going back to the drawing table to better flow the triangle shaped standard port for the KA. Make the oval a bit more Triangle shaped and pull the injector back.

 

UUAHxOR.jpg

 

Factory KA24 and some work "Custom Alloy Welding" @ Mt Isa, Australia do!

 

NYgPeV5.jpghLklxSw.jpgSCRspO4.jpg0hpQJsB.jpg

 

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Now that the rear end has finished it's modifications. Time to start cleaning it up!

Will try shorten it for the next one but these are the steps I took for the first control arm, bit in it: 

 

1. Sandblasted most of the control arm especially the hard access areas
2. Wire wheeled all remaining areas, big areas that take too long to sandblast.
3. Wire brushed really hard to get to areas.
4. Chiselled the original 1972 splatter off.
5. Final touch up with a flapper disc.
6. heavy duty degreaser watered down, (super cheap auto), and rinsed with water.
7. Wax and grim final wipe down(super cheap auto brand)
8. Primed (Supercheap heavy duty primer)
9. Por15 etch primed - This hasnt been completed yet, paint arriving tomorrow.

 

Before:

e3Dlxg9.jpg

 

After stripping and cleaning:

zAASxkU.jpg

 

After priming, ready for POR15 final coat:

OZHQKIf.jpgn0jWdAd.jpg

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53 minutes ago, AussieDunc said:

Now that the rear end has finished it's modifications. Time to start cleaning it up!

Will try shorten it for the next one but these are the steps I took for the first control arm, bit in it: 

 

1. Sandblasted most of the control arm especially the hard access areas
2. Wire wheeled all remaining areas, big areas that take too long to sandblast.
3. Wire brushed really hard to get to areas.
4. Chiselled the original 1972 splatter off.
5. Final touch up with a flapper disc.
6. heavy duty degreaser watered down, (super cheap auto), and rinsed with water.
7. Wax and grim final wipe down(super cheap auto brand)
8. Primed (Supercheap heavy duty primer)
9. Por15 etch primed - This hasnt been completed yet, paint arriving tomorrow.

 

Before:

e3Dlxg9.jpg

 

After stripping and cleaning:

zAASxkU.jpg

 

After priming, ready for POR15 final coat:

OZHQKIf.jpgn0jWdAd.jpg

 

Are you keeping the coils or fitting coilovers?

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I guess it depends what you want to do with it. I've got coils and bilsteins in mine. Drives nice, but I'm not circuit racing. Just dailying and the odd khana. Cool to see a KA24DET down here. There are lots in the US but I haven't seen many here. Stewart Wilkins was spruking the KA24 to me over a 2.3l L20B stroker.

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On 12/10/2021 at 2:45 PM, slowlearner said:

I guess it depends what you want to do with it. I've got coils and bilsteins in mine. Drives nice, but I'm not circuit racing. Just dailying and the odd khana. Cool to see a KA24DET down here. There are lots in the US but I haven't seen many here. Stewart Wilkins was spruking the KA24 to me over a 2.3l L20B stroker.

Yeah I haven't seen many down under in my 20 plus years of Datsuns.  How do they go for room under the hood?  The L20 used to only just fit.  Are they similar block height or taller? Ryan

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1 hour ago, RyanC said:

Yeah I haven't seen many down under in my 20 plus years of Datsuns.  How do they go for room under the hood?  The L20 used to only just fit.  Are they similar block height or taller? Ryan

KA24's are becoming more popular in Australia due to SR20 price, not surprised Stuart Wilkins recomended. Personally I think I will get more out of an iron block 2.4L that frankly has a better factory head design and oil squirters. SR20 DET only came out with squirters.

 

Regarding the height, from my research it's a very similar conversion to an SR, reversed crossmember and height are very similar.

 

SR20's and Australian d22 KA24s(Japanese built) both come out with a front mount oil pan hence the reversed crossmember. However I got a sump and pickup from Canada out of another ka24 that has the sump on the back so hoping I won't have to reverse it, think it's the Mexican made KA.

 

Will tell you mid January when I get the engine back from the builder.

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