z32chick's 620 build

[z32chick]

Got my order of LED gauge lights in today and installed them, then went out to the truck to test em out.

 

Did not have to modify anything except for the blue bubble cover on the heater controls, removed that cover and the bulbs installed perfectly.  Everything else inside the cluster was a straight plug n play.

 

This is exactly what I ordered

 

And the finished product!! 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

One of the things Datsun got terribly wrong were all dash lights. They are basically as dim at full brilliance as you could want already. I found some LED lights on Amazon that looked short enough to fit properly, and they did. Maybe me but at night I could not read the odometer at all.

[Crashtd420]

On 7/8/2022 at 6:06 PM, z32chick said:

Got my order of LED gauge lights in today and installed them, then went out to the truck to test em out.

 

Did not have to modify anything except for the blue bubble cover on the heater controls, removed that cover and the bulbs installed perfectly.  Everything else inside the cluster was a straight plug n play.

 

This is exactly what I ordered

 

And the finished product!! 

 

 

 

Just be aware some times the charge light does not like an led bulb..

My charge light would stay on till I revved the motor then it would go out...

If you have that issue just change the one bulb back before chasing a problem... 

[z32chick]

The 720 tank came in today and I think I can make it work! Pretty sure the rear factory mount will bolt right up. I’m going to try to use the factory mounts in the front as well, but add a brace to bolt to them, and then bolt the brace to the holes in the tank. 
 

 

 

Edited July 12, 2022 by z32chick

[Z23T]

I'm liking the vinyl wrap on the horn pad.

[z32chick]

720 fuel tank installed ✔️

^ Very viable option for anyone needing to replace the tank in their 620.  Does require custom bent brackets, but I used 14ga sheet metal and mounted it to the factory mounting holes underneath the bed.  I will post the specs on here after driving it and making sure there is no contact with any part of the driveline and I don't need to make any extra adjustments.  It is VERY close to the driveshaft and rear axle but should not make contact with either under normal driving conditions.  

Engine plumbed and started ✔️

Clutch bled (with help from my 8yo daughter) ✔️

 

Still having trouble with the brakes, getting lots of air and not alot of fluid on the front passenger side.. I've replaced the soft line and brake bleeder screw, will try again sometime this week when I can get some help.  I've got a vacuum pump but I'm not happy with how it's working so I want a person on the pedal.

 

Have not had a chance to set the ignition timing or do a proper carb tune yet.  It is dieseling on shut down, but I've read datsunMike's suggestion to basically stall it to shut it down until I get an idle cut solenoid installed.

 

Will be installing a new carrier bearing and rubber isolator, my rubber isolator looks like it's been replaced with windshield caulk/adhesive and the bearing is being propped up by a spark plug underneath it 😂

 

Also 99% sure the oil pan is leaking (cork gasket sucks) so I'll have to lift the engine to remove it and will be using RTV this next time.

 

I think that's it for progress!  It seems like I've been one step forward and 2 steps back with this thing.  I think the z32 has been whispering in his ear and he's pulling some of her tricks to get out of being driven.  Luckily he's easier to work on so he won't be getting out of it as easy as she does 😆 Pending any additional setbacks I think I might be able to take him around the block in the next week or so 🤞

 

[datzenmike]

Unbolt the idler arm (it's under the alternator) and the steering cross rod can be dropped slightly. If you can get a puller the pitman arm can be drawn off the steering box sector shaft and all the steering can be dropped down out of the way. That square brace under the oil pan that supports the torsion bars can be unbolted and removed to get at the oil pan. 

[mrbigtanker]

Is there a lot of Datsuns in Florida. And great work on the 620.

[z32chick]

17 hours ago, mrbigtanker said:

Is there a lot of Datsuns in Florida. And great work on the 620.

 

I see plenty of datsun z cars, but not many pickups.  I only know of (1) other 620 in the area..

[z32chick]

21 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Unbolt the idler arm (it's under the alternator) and the steering cross rod can be dropped slightly. If you can get a puller the pitman arm can be drawn off the steering box sector shaft and all the steering can be dropped down out of the way. That square brace under the oil pan that supports the torsion bars can be unbolted and removed to get at the oil pan. 

 

Thanks Mike! I'll give that a shot.

[z32chick]

Getting closer to having my little old man on the road!

 

The replacement brake booster I received had a shorter rod on the pedal side than the original one and it wasn't allowing the pedal to fully rise back to the top, which was causing it to not bleed correctly and have poor pedal feel.  I cut off the head of a bolt with the same size & thread pitch and made a little extension piece which got the pedal to return all the way to the top.  Then adjusted the drums and it's got good pedal feel now!

 

The oil leak was actually caused by a bolt that I missed on the timing cover *facepalm* As i was putting it back together I couldn't remember exactly where the alternator and pivot arm mounted, so I left that one out thinking it was where they went.. then when I put it back together the alternator was blocking the hole from view.  Anyways, I found it, pulled a bolt from my old engine and threw it in there.. no more leak!

 

Also discovered that I had not done the VR mod for the l20b IR alternator, so the truck was overcharging and some other things weren't working properly.  I did that last night, but I still need to find the idle cut solenoid wire and hook it up to the electric choke since the choke relay is now unplugged.  Then install and wire up the Weber idle cut solenoid I bought to hopefully cure the dieseling.

 

THEN refill and burp the coolant system, THEN set ignition timing, THEN tune the carb THEN I CAN DRIVE HIM!!! *fingers crossed*

 

I'll post some updated pictures when I get home this evening.  He's sitting on the Lodio Drive wheels and new tires and looks soOoOoOo good!

Edited October 19, 2022 by z32chick

[datzenmike]

The two wires for idle cut and choke heater originate roughly in the coil area and travel across to the front left side of the stock Hitachi where they have connectors to the red idle cut and the blue choke heater wires (they will have a black sheath covering them) then wrap around the rear side. 

[z32chick]

13 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The two wires for idle cut and choke heater originate roughly in the coil area and travel across to the front left side of the stock Hitachi where they have connectors to the red idle cut and the blue choke heater wires (they will have a black sheath covering them) then wrap around the rear side. 

 

Thank you Mike! Hopefully this will save me a lot of unnecessary probing with the volt meter 😆

[z32chick]

I GOT TO DRIVE MY TRUUUUUUCK!!!

 

Still have some kinks to work out but I’m so happy he’s running well and DRIVING!!!

 

 

 

 

 

[mikec4193]

Congrats on that first drive....they are always milestones that you will remember for a long time...

 

MikeC

[z32chick]

53 minutes ago, mikec4193 said:

Congrats on that first drive....they are always milestones that you will remember for a long time...

 

MikeC

 

Thanks!!! It is absolutely a milestone, anytime I take a vehicle out of commission with serious engine or electrical work it's a huge deal when it even starts let alone drives 😆

[RyanC]

Well done, you beat me to it.  Nice little truck.

[z32chick]

* Alternator wasn't charging, so I installed a new one and its working great!

* Temp gauge wasn't reading the temp, it would work when shorted out against the case, so I replaced the sensor and it's working!

* My BF repaired the hood hinges (the passenger side was ripped off at the mount and the drivers side was on it's way).  He also welded on some reinforcement pieces to strengthen it up and we installed the hood! (Don't have pictures of the hood installed yet)

* Final big thing that I need to fix is the heater/blower that isn't working.  

 

 

We took our twins out for a drive on Tuesday last week 

 

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

I see what you did there... Two different fathers.

[z32chick]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I see what you did there... Two different fathers.

We are dueling households..

he’s Toyota, I’m Datsun/Nissan.

He’s got like 7, all Toyota.. including a boat!

Edited November 1, 2022 by z32chick

[datzenmike]

Datsun did make a Sundance boat powered by an L series engine....

 

 

 

[z32chick]

I NEED ONE!!! 😆

[z32chick]

Here he is with a hood!
 

[RyanC]

18 hours ago, z32chick said:

I NEED ONE!!! 😆

Nice new hood.

 

Mike has ruined us both.

 

How did I not know about this boat, always wanted a jet boat??  And now with L series power shiiiiiiiiiit.

[iceman510]

When I bought my Hardbody new (demo) from the dealer in '88, that dealer was also selling Nissan boats.  I don't remember exactly what it looked like, but I do recall seeing the L-series engine style valve cover and thinking that was pretty cool.