My 620 Build

[RyanC]

I bought these wiper caps/nuts for the ute.  They screw onto the wiper rod threads but don't fit my wipers they are too big and don't fit inside the wiper.  They were from a 1200 / 210 I think.

 

I may just try putting them in the lathe but what are genuine ones like?

 

Side note tank is off getting sorted so now a few my things to sort so I can drive her over the weigh bridge.

 

Ryan

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You've already got them, may as well cut them in the lathe and make them work.

[RyanC]

10 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You've already got them, may as well cut them in the lathe and make them work.

Yep they don't need much just frustrating. Too large diam and too long

 

[RyanC]

Few more jobs sorted.  Door vapour barriers done and 1 door card in.  Lhs side I will need to drill some new holes to match as the card pins don't line up with door holes along the top.  The sides and bottom do.  Anyway.

 

Tank cleaned up and painted and new fuel sender arrived so hopefully get it back on and sorted and she should be a goer next week.

 

Better pull the drums and bleed the brakes and clutch and im up to the weigh bridge so I can sort rego.  Oh that's right sort out the lights...no brake or headlights at moment.

[RyanC]

[RyanC]

Slowly but surely got her fired up today after tank and hose installed.  Had to suck some fuel through to the pump on the outlet side but didn't take much after that...now to sort the lights and turn signals and go get her weighed for rego.

 

 

 

[RyanC]

Well did what we all do and fired her up again today starts easy, no pump just choke then half choke after first min it seems.

 

Then had a look at fuse box, all checked okay, found what looks like a earth cable coming into the cab behind the fuse box that has a large splade.  Pulled it out rubbed put back in.   Checked a few other things then shit realised the lights were on, indicators were working 🤔 😀.  Hi and low beam, one low beam dropped out so may have some shit connections and wiring somewhere and the front rhs indicator not working, the side one does so globe has continuity so will check the plug down there as well although where the globe seats looks corroded in there.

 

Might be weighing here earlier than first thought.

[EDM620]

Bad or corroded grounds are the bulk of most electrical gremlins, and will cause very wierd issues as the power finds it's way back through other means.

[RyanC]

9 hours ago, EDM620 said:

Bad or corroded grounds are the bulk of most electrical gremlins, and will cause very wierd issues as the power finds it's way back through other means.

 

I'm thinking of trying to find as many ground points and cleaning etc use some balistol to rub and clean it all up.

I'll check the plug - feed wires to the indicator and headlight first with the multimeter, bloody indicator feed is under the battery but can probably pull it through as the grommit is loose.

 

Realised I put the moisture barrier on and didn't check for the arm rest fixing points.  Hopefully can work them out from photos.

 

[RyanC]

Yep was just a dirty plug for the rhs indicator 👍.

 

 

[RyanC]

Picked up some lubrication for the old girl last week.  Coolant concentrate etc, 15w-40w coolant flush as she has been sitting for who knows how long etc

Picked up some gear oil 80w-90 I think it is, but says it is GL5, i see this seems okay for diff but the gearbox says gl4?  She doesn't have the original J15 motor and gearbox but has a L20 with the 4 speed, is GL5 okay in these?

My manual says for 140 I think if temp is over 38 deg c which it commonly gets here but cant seem to find any gl4 140, I think the 90 shows just over 38 so probably okay on our 40-45 deg max summer days once or twice a year?

[thisismatt]

No to the GL5. Bad for the brass synchros, and even some Nissan diffs had brass parts in them 🤷‍♂️

[RyanC]

DAMN anyway manual says gl5 for the diff.  

 

My book for our bluebirds with the l20b and 4 speed is sae30?

[datzenmike]

GL-4 80-90w for transmissions and steering gear box, GL-5 80-90w for the differential on pretty much all Datsuns. Extreme heat conditions where the temperature never goes below 60F, 140w can be substituted. OCH and OHV engines need or were built for high ZDDP levels 1,000 ppm or more, such as in diesel oils. 10w30 is generally fine for temperatures above 0F and 15w40 for temperatures not below 20F.

 

 Transmission oils are always 'thicker' than engine oils although some FWD vehicles share engine oil with the transmission. SAE 30 would be too 'thin' for a Datsun transmission. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Bad for the glass, I mean brass.

 

 

[RyanC]

Cheers ill see what else I can find.  Should be some gl4 about.

[datzenmike]

7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Bad for the glass, I mean brass.

 

 

 

Excellent!!!! Chinatown reference!!!!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

Excellent!!!! Chinatown reference!!!!

We're too old for the other guys to get it.

[datzenmike]

She's my sister. (slap) She's my daughter (slap) She's my sister and my daughter....

[RyanC]

Sorry lads your wiser and older and never seen chinatown down here 🙂

 

On another note I have no stopper on the brake pedal for the switch plunger.  I was going to just put a bolt/flat head through and bolt off.

I think originally they were nylon of some sort?

 

Ryan

 

[datzenmike]

I think Hainz (banzai) just scotch tapes a penny on it. Anything that works will do.

[thisismatt]

https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=brake+switch+bumper&crid=1QZG5EE9ETAGJ&sprefix=brake+switch+bumpe%2Caps%2C149&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

[RyanC]

4 hours ago, thisismatt said:

https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=brake+switch+bumper&crid=1QZG5EE9ETAGJ&sprefix=brake+switch+bumpe%2Caps%2C149&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

Thanks mate, I think I have some clips spare from other stuff about the place going to see if one will fit.

[RyanC]

Well its been a while between updates.  Little by little almost ready to roll out for a wash and weigh.

 

Since last time sorted the windshield wipers after modding the caps on the lathe, I think I only have 1 speed, No washer working yet, need to test the washer motor directly and work back to the switch.

 

She fires up easy now turn her over whenever I get a chance or doing little jobs.

 

Horn in and sorted on steering wheel.

 

Door panels in, had to drill some new holes as new panels from PO were for different holes along the top.

 

Next up pull the drums and check and bleed brakes and clutch.

[RyanC]

Removed all the crap off the tray, jacked up the rear and removed the rears.  Rear brakes bled, I can turn the drums by hand but is tight, figure they have been sitting that long might have some surface rust,  I will back the adjusters off a touch.  Air up the tyres and then onto the fronts.