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My 620 Build


RyanC

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Hi I am from the Hunter Valley in Australia, about 1 hr or so North of Sydney.  Lovely country area but not far from the coast.

 

Recently was looking through the classifieds at Dattos and a white Datsun 1500 took my fancy.  The hugs and kisses said why not, good 40th if you like.

 

Going back a few years when I was 17 I bought a Datsun 1600 4 door (510) resprayed and it had L16/L18 then I helped rebuild a L20, with modified cam only mild, twin 40 dcoe style carbs, 200sx front brakes lowered and well can't recall much more, did most the work my self or with Dad in his shed.  Sold the sedan when we didn't need 2 cars.

 

Never thought I would end up with another Datsun but a mini truck or Ute as we say here it is.  A little different with the flat tray back but pretty common on other utes here called 1 tonners.

 

Anyway it has travelled by truck from Perth to Sydney and still has the dessert dust on her, haven't washed as can't drive out of the shed yet 🙂

 

The last owner has done a lot work, L20 with webber 32/36, says warm on the paper work so probably cam of some sort, 4 speed floor conversion, new seats, which I like the bench seat but these are in extremely good nick, carpet, door lnings, roof and rear of the cab is all lined and a centre console, still needs putting back together but the bones are great!

 

Picked up some radiator hoses and a thermostat and in the next few months will get her running.  Just looking forward to enjoying a little Datsun again and the L20 will get along nicely.

 

Really interested in air bagging her so need to ask about that eg Do they replace the shocks up front?  When they are really springs??

Will be doing 4 link for the rear and put a Nissan Patrol rear in it possibly as I have access to it, means lsd strong diff and discs on the rear.

D21 style front discs.

 

My bro inlaw is building an EV 260z with Tesla rear motor so it may be a little EV hauler down the track or a vk v8 hmmm seems there is room but they don't really need massive HP.

 

Anyway this is the start of a new journey.

 

Ryan

 

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Looks like a '78. I had a '78 with home made wooden tray. Keep an eye out for the early grill much nicer looking I think. Is the Australian  1500 front disc brake? Will the Patrol axle keep the tires under the tray? Didn't know the patrol had LSD or is this a more recent model? 

 

Air bags will replace the torsion bar 'springs'. You may need to relocate the shocks. Why not a coil over shock? design....

 

QA1 52613-D600 QA1 1988-98 C1500 Level 3 Front Coilover Conversion Systems  | Summit Racing

 

I can't see much advantage to replacing the spring with another spring, even an air bag.  Nothing wrong with the stock set up. Seems like a lot of work and not much gain. Same with the rear. The rear works as is, why the change to 4 link?

 

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Yes the wheels will fit under the tray, the axle is 150mm wider overall approximately haven't done full measure etc but may need to change to more positive offset.

 

Airbags is more a "wish list" no rush and may just do coilovers front and rear with the 4 link rear end.  It will stay practical eg if airbags won't be notching it as it will haul firewood etc for us when needed.  Will probably make up some timber loading boards for hauling purposes.

 

Its a 75 as per paperwork and plate.  All drum brake etc

 

In all seriousness I'll be just happy having it running, Already had an offer to buy it from me from a random when it was on the trailer lol.  Hell no to that 🙂

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Hopefully get the water hoses, thermostat on next week.  But also thinking before putting door linings on etc what is general consensus with spraying the inside of the doors with a rust protector before lining with plastic?

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So had a play today.  Hooked up a spare battery unfortunately had different smaller terminal posts.  So we used a jumper lead.  Get chg and oil light on dash in the on position.  Turn to start and a click.  Then nothing hmm maybe she is sitting in a weird position and not engaging flywheel so pulled the plugs and turned her over by hand.  Heard a click down at the starter so thinking yep better.

 

Get a clickidy click now then nothing. Nothing no change lights no power hmm fuse.  Maybe ...then try and lights back again...huh? Weird this battery was on its way out.  So we try jumping direct of bil car..diesel so plenty of grunt and had it running.  Pretty much same cricket click then nothing felt stronger but the nothing but is weird.  Like there is a short...then it resets? Then power again. 

 

Thinking my jumper leads are crap and too much amps required but why does it reset?

 

Going to organise a nee full time battery and try again.  If same then wiring will get traced and starter pulled.

 

Have  good one.  Oh heater hose return hooked up.  Thermostat and rad hoses next.

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Make sure the battery posts and cable clamps are clean and tight. As all parts of a circuit carry the same amount of current, then ALL connections must be so including the other ends of the cables... the ground on the block and the lug on the starter itself. The starter can draw hundreds of amperes and at 12v it doesn't take much for a bad connection.

 

There should be a fusible link on the positive cable that protects the cable that brings power into the cab for lighting, ignition and fuse box. It will be near the positive post of the battery, is about 3-4 inches long and has plastic connectors so it can be removed and replaced. Check that it is in good condition.

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  • 2 weeks later...

New battery in...turns over easy! So will be feeling up and see i cN start her proper later this week.  Found the fuseable link and cleaned the connection spade on the starter as well.

 

All the wiring harness is tightly wound in electrical tape so fingers crossed no surprises!

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On 10/12/2021 at 4:58 AM, RyanC said:

Hi I am from the Hunter Valley in Australia, about 1 hr or so North of Sydney.  Lovely country area but not far from the coast.

 

Recently was looking through the classifieds at Dattos and a white Datsun 1500 took my fancy.  The hugs and kisses said why not, good 40th if you like.

 

Going back a few years when I was 17 I bought a Datsun 1600 4 door (510) resprayed and it had L16/L18 then I helped rebuild a L20, with modified cam only mild, twin 40 dcoe style carbs, 200sx front brakes lowered and well can't recall much more, did most the work my self or with Dad in his shed.  Sold the sedan when we didn't need 2 cars.

 

Never thought I would end up with another Datsun but a mini truck or Ute as we say here it is.  A little different with the flat tray back but pretty common on other utes here called 1 tonners.

 

Anyway it has travelled by truck from Perth to Sydney and still has the dessert dust on her, haven't washed as can't drive out of the shed yet 🙂

 

The last owner has done a lot work, L20 with webber 32/36, says warm on the paper work so probably cam of some sort, 4 speed floor conversion, new seats, which I like the bench seat but these are in extremely good nick, carpet, door lnings, roof and rear of the cab is all lined and a centre console, still needs putting back together but the bones are great!

 

Picked up some radiator hoses and a thermostat and in the next few months will get her running.  Just looking forward to enjoying a little Datsun again and the L20 will get along nicely.

 

Really interested in air bagging her so need to ask about that eg Do they replace the shocks up front?  When they are really springs??

Will be doing 4 link for the rear and put a Nissan Patrol rear in it possibly as I have access to it, means lsd strong diff and discs on the rear.

D21 style front discs.

 

My bro inlaw is building an EV 260z with Tesla rear motor so it may be a little EV hauler down the track or a vk v8 hmmm seems there is room but they don't really need massive HP.

 

Anyway this is the start of a new journey.

 

Ryan

 

Link to photos

 

 

Good looking ute! That aluminum bed looks really nice. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Bit of an update, hoses and themostat all on.  The previous owner had purchased a thermostat top housing but was not correct for mine with studs and not a bolt, so replacement sorted and all on water and coolant in.  New battery thanks to the brother in law after doing a couple of jobs while out for him.  Checked the dizzy wiring.  

 

Cranks over great no noises. 

 

Took the filter off the weber and poured some fuel stragit down,, 2 cranks and she fired up. 😆 Poured more where it looks like it feeds the jets (front of carby) and then it idled pretty well and revved up till no fuel.  She pulled a small amount from the tank but I will give it a suck and see if I can get her to feed herself.  

 

Weber seems as the choke is stuck open loosened a bit but no drama will try some wd40 on all the linkages tomorrow.  

 

I'm not sure the both primary and secondary were opening I assume its a 32/36, both the square top plates look the same size??   When I move the throttle by hand it wasn't pushing the other / secondary but will have another look at it tomorrow.

 

Revs fine, no noises so happy days.  Will mount the coil and then start getting the interior sorted, bleed the brakes and clutch...replace all the oils and see how we go.

 

Still not sure on best way to link photos, via my google photos but might upload the vid to youtube.

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I have read some threads on here about engine oils, best to find something with some extra Zinc.

 

Pretty sure I used to just run a Caltex 20w-50 before.  Would something like this Nulon be better or too much?  We don't see anything past -5, generally -1 or 2 deg c here so 20w the thinnest needed but not sure on this nulon being a 25w 60, ??

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/premium-mineral-engine-oils/high-zinc-mineral-25w-60-street-and-track-engine-oil

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  • 4 weeks later...

How hard should the lift side of the fuel pump be sucking? The filter was full before starting.  Fuel had siphoned while sitting and after she ran only half empty filter so maybe she is sucking but with the lift side hose off it just sucks the finger to it def not hard or intense.  Maybe just enough to leave a circle on the skin.

 

Thinking of adding some hose on the pump both sides and see if it is actually pumping out.  Maybe insert the inlet into a bottle with some fuel and do the same with an empty on the outlet.

 

Ryan

Edited by RyanC
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When running, the tank side of the fuel pump will be under suction so if a hose clamp is loose air will get sucked in. When shut off, air getting in will allow the fuel to siphon back into the tank. The float chamber will have enough gas for starting and usually the pump can suck fuel up and fill the lines before it runs out. Best to check the hoses and clamps at the end of the metal fuel line, both sides of the filter and the filter side of the fuel pump for any chance of air getting in. Could be a small split in the hose (even the wrong size of replacement hose) but my favorite is the wrong size hose clamp that doesn't really tighten properly.

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Back to your original post, re- airbags. I have little experience with airbags replacing springs/torsion bars, but customers and friends of mine have expressed complaints with the airbag systems, Always needing air is the most common complaint. If you don't have the on-board air compressor, this means constantly having to fill them up.

 

If I had my choice between coil overs and airbags, I'd go coil overs. Be advised that even coilovers aren't without their downfalls. Squeaky springs being the chief complaint, but also spherical rod end style balls at the ends also wear and get clunky very quickly.

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5 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Back to your original post, re- airbags. I have little experience with airbags replacing springs/torsion bars, but customers and friends of mine have expressed complaints with the airbag systems, Always needing air is the most common complaint. If you don't have the on-board air compressor, this means constantly having to fill them up.

 

If I had my choice between coil overs and airbags, I'd go coil overs. Be advised that even coilovers aren't without their downfalls. Squeaky springs being the chief complaint, but also spherical rod end style balls at the ends also wear and get clunky very quickly.

Cheers for that.  Its hard sometimes as I hear negatives about bagging but always on the bucket list.  Not even super low as she will be practical.  Most likely run on order air so no biggy that way.

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  • 1 month later...

So i ran the fuel pump outlet to a bottle and it is pumping fuel.  Doesn't seem like much but at starter cranking speed figure it won't be much so that looks okay.  Next up will remove the filter and make sure the jets are not blocked and fuel in the fuel bowl.

 

Is there a fuel addtive for helping with a fuel tank that has sat around for sometime empty, the fuel color is rather red lol.  I figure I would buy some extra filters and swap them out reguarly for a while.  Or am I best to removew and shake and rinse?

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