Starter tooth count

[datzenmike]

On 11/2/2021 at 3:09 PM, NC85ST said:

Take the small wire that goes to the solenoid on the starter and attach it to pin #86 on the relay. Run a ground wire to pin #85. I used 12 gauge wire from pin #30 to battery positive. Then 12 gauge wire from pin #87 back to the solenoid.

Sorry I don’t have a picture of it. You wouldn’t be able to see much anyway.

 

You won't need 12 gauge wire for this, only the same size as the original wire to the starter solenoid.

 

Also anything powered from the battery positive terminal should have a fuse to protect it and mounted as close to the battery as possible. Or a source that is already protected with a fuse such as the ignition coil or the idle cut solenoid.

[None_zero]

Hooked up relay according to diagram I think didn't do anything. Hooked original back to switch getting a chatter from either the choke relay or the fuel pump relay and then started smoking about mid wiring harness 

[None_zero]

I think I'm to the point where i start just replacing all the wiring. Can't find a harness for it any suggestions to make pulling it wire by wire less tedious and time consuming I'm prone to flocking things up so anything to make it me proof would be awesome 

[None_zero]

Reckon this gets her done?

[jagman]

I am not that far from you and have an 86 KC junker with all the original wiring if you want to come and remove it.

[datzenmike]

 I removed a 720 harness and fitted it into my 620. Time and patience is all that was needed. Disconnect everything and slowly push and pull everything into the cab through the hole in the firewall to remove. Reverse to install. That's how the factory did it.

[None_zero]

Ok so long time again I don't like messing with this stuff in the cold but the weather's been great the last week . I have made a huge mistake and also solved my original problem or secondary original problem or tertiary whichever it is is. I feel a bit foolish as always (not uncommon for a fool) because I did end up fixing the starter not turning over by creating a new ground to the block from the negative terminal. It has confounded me because I'd removed the original and cleaned all the contacts and blah blah and thought I'd eliminated that as the source of the issue. But it turns out all my diligent work making sure I had good contact was in vain and it wasn't until I put a brand new cable in and ran it to a different spot on the block that it finally solved the issue. Now for the fun part. I had planned to remove and replace the wiring harness and I got a little.... Cavalier in my approach. Which is to say I bisected the harness just behind the gauge cluster so I could remove it with out disassembling everything in hopes to use a different harness kir and just rebuild it however I failed to note that there are several wires that are all the same color and this does not unfortunately mean that they can be hooked up however you like. I had an inkling that I was in big trouble when I spliced the harness back in but I'm an optimistic sort and so I thought ... "Well there is a chance I'll get it right on accident." Well that didn't pan out and now I'm stuck tryings different combinations to make it work right. So far I've had no headlights, headlights on when parking light turned on and brights when headlight turned on . Headlights on til brake is pressed then cuts off...  All sorts of interesting results.. what's my best approach to unscrew this pooch?

[None_zero]

I should add I decided against building my own harness out of the kit because yeah screw that... Oh and if anyone has a need for a 12 circuit wiring harness kit for gm or Mopar five me a shout cause it's not doing me any good at all

Edited March 6, 2022 by None_zero

[None_zero]

Save me datzenmike how do I know which black wire with single red dot goes to which and also which red with blue line and ....two black dots ... One black dot ... I've forgotten but it has dots I'll have to look in the morning and recount 

[None_zero]

Having identified the black wire with red dots that goes to the brake pedal I thought I'd be clever and test continuity from the wire of same discription that goes back toward the tailights to determine which of the wires at least was for brakes but I got continuity tone on every single one so yeah.... So much for being clever 

[None_zero]

Which would seem to mean that it doesn't matter which one goes to which but somehow it does... I'm confused 

[datzenmike]

10 hours ago, None_zero said:

 I bisected the harness just behind the gauge cluster so I could remove it with out disassembling everything in hopes to use a different harness kir and just rebuild it however ....

 

Cutting the harness.... not good. I think the best way is to replace it. I've removed a 720 harness before. Removing the dash really helps. Everything is pulled into the cab from the engine side.

[None_zero]

Yes I have discovered the not goodness. I think I'm very close to having everything connected correctly ish. I now get brights when I turn on brights but no headlights on dim and I do get an indicator on the dash for brights except its for 4 wheel drive which I do not have. The biggest thing perplexing me at the moment is I have a red wire with black stripe and single repeated dot that appears to have come loose from somewhere. I have it spliced back together further down where I split the harness and it goes off toward the engine. Can you tell me what this wire is?

[None_zero]

To be more specific this red/black (single dot) wire is coming up over the steering column. Toward the fuse block area

[None_zero]

Also dash is out as are most of the vent ducts and all that something definitely isn't right though because when I start the truck it idles very low even with the gas pedal fully depressed until I put my other foot on the break and then it revs like I'm giving it gas... I assume this means the choke wiring is wrong?

[None_zero]

Perhaps if I pose a series of questions like: should the the wires coming off the clutch be y/w and blk  or should they be y/l and y/r? Does it matter if the two wires in the little black connector are swapped (as in the plug will go on both ways does it matter which way?)

[None_zero]

Ok got a little assistance from the wife and confirmed brake light function with current arrangement. And the engine rev now activates on clutch depression instead of break so clearly something still not right there and it is one of the black wires with single repeating dot coming off that switch

[None_zero]

No ideas? My last two issues it seems are this. My headlight on switch is scrambled so that brights = on and switching between parking lights and headlights changes from dims to brights and I have no parking lights. Second issue choke seems to still be wired into the clutch somehow... What am I missing here? Anybody?

[None_zero]

I mean clearly I have the black wires with single red dot scrambled right? Anyone know which ones I should swap? Also the diagrams show the headlight relay with two black wires coming out and then tying together before continuing to ground am I reading that right, that the thinner black wire with single dot connects to the heavier gage wire of the same discription which eventually ties into the black wire that grounds above the blower motor I assume 

Edited March 7, 2022 by None_zero

[NC85ST]

Have you tried unplugging the carburetor and seeing how it runs? 

[None_zero]

I have not but I'll give it a shot