datzenmike Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 24 minutes ago, None_zero said: yes thats what I'm getting click but no whirring. And damn that is a good tip on keeping the cap loose I didn't even think of reducing the pressure in the system... would I need to be concerned about most of my coolant blowing out the top with it like that and me overheating? Well if it has a serious boiling over problem nothing will stop it. This would slow down a hose leak. If running normally, some may piss out and be saved by the overflow container but only till the rad lowered a few inches. A real worry with moderate to severe boil over is the coolant level inside of the head is low enough for it to over heat and warp. Can easily blow the head gasket too. Aluminum is very bad for this. 2 Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted September 8, 2021 Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 12 hours ago, None_zero said: You mean from a local dealer or on nissan website? I don't think I've ever bought anything directly from nissan odd as that is for a guy who has driven 8 different nissans over the years lol I looked up the part number online and then went to my local dealer. A couple of days later I had the new hose. It’s surprising sometimes what the dealer can still get. I always look for a part number first though. 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 @datzenmikethanks for the follow up on the rad/pressure thing I had always assumed that it would push the fluid if left uncapped but I guess it does have an overflow tank after all. On 9/7/2021 at 4:37 PM, NC85ST said: 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 I got a few of the parts i ordered in today one being the oil pressure sender. It seems to only be generally designed to accept a socket or wrench how tight do i need to have that installed is it just finger tight with man hands or grab with channel locks and crank down? 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 On 9/7/2021 at 4:37 PM, NC85ST said: The hose running from under the intake toward the rear of the engine is still available from Nissan. I had to replace mine at the beginning of the year. You wouldn't happen to still have the part number would you? Where would I find that information if you don't? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 23 minutes ago, None_zero said: I got a few of the parts i ordered in today one being the oil pressure sender. It seems to only be generally designed to accept a socket or wrench how tight do i need to have that installed is it just finger tight with man hands or grab with channel locks and crank down? A deep socket should fit. As the threads are BSPT the socket may have to be in inches. 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 2 hours ago, datzenmike said: A deep socket should fit. As the threads are BSPT the socket may have to be in inches. The biggest socket I own (26mm) barely bites the outermost edge but probably not enough to turn it much. Whats the torque spec on it? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 It a British Special Pipe Taper. It's tapered so, tightened till it doesn't leak. I did say it may not be metric. 1 Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 I believe this is the part number: Genuine Nissan Water Hose 14055-10W00. Goes from under the manifold toward the front of the engine. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 That's twice what the dealer charges. Just get generic hose by the foot in that diameter. There are no complicated molded bends. 1 Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 The picture is just for parts reference to make sure that that’s the one. It’s an oddball size. 3/4” is small, difficult to attach under the manifold and 1” is to big. I went to the dealer for the part. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 Just curious what it cost. I have some pricing but it's not clear if CDN or US. You can buy 6' of heater hose for $8 1 Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 It was about a year and a half ago that I bought it and if I remember right it was $10-12 from the dealer. By the foot is always cheaper, but since it was available and the factory hose lasted about 35 years, I figured I would go with it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 If I remember corectly it is 22mm. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 6 hours ago, NC85ST said: It was about a year and a half ago that I bought it and if I remember right it was $10-12 from the dealer. By the foot is always cheaper, but since it was available and the factory hose lasted about 35 years, I figured I would go with it. Good, my info says $13 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2021 On 9/11/2021 at 5:31 PM, NC85ST said: The picture is just for parts reference to make sure that that’s the one. It’s an oddball size. 3/4” is small, difficult to attach under the manifold and 1” is to big. I went to the dealer for the part. I had the same issue 3/4 is too much of a stretch and the 1" is just shy of snug. I ended up just getting 1' of 1" and am hoping the clamps will keep it tight enough not to leak. Haven't put everything back together yet and still waiting on my 9 tooth starter so it may be tomorrow before I can try everything out 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2021 Side issue: you know the little plastic piece at the top of the carburetor shaped a bit like a half moon with 2 screws holding it down. Both of the screw holes have broken out of it. What is this piece for and is it replaceable? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 17, 2021 Report Share Posted September 17, 2021 It's called the 'air vent cover.' Get off a scrap carburetor, wrecking yard. Post a want ad in Classifieds. 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2021 Update: got the new starter with 9 teeth this time. Only thing is its a little fatter and the posts are swapped so that the opposite post goes to the battery. And it doesn't start... when hit the ignition it makes a muted clicking sound and the tachometer jumps a little and nothing happens. I started it by dumping the clutch but it was barely turning over with the pedal to the floor and died as soon as I let off whats the problem here? I'm at my wits end? Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted September 18, 2021 Report Share Posted September 18, 2021 Hook a jumper cable from battery negative to starter body. This will check if your ground cable is bad 1 Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2021 Update: got the new starter with 9 teeth this time. Only thing is its a little fatter and the posts are swapped so that the opposite post goes to the battery. And it doesn't start... when hit the ignition it makes a muted clicking sound and the tachometer jumps a little and nothing happens. I started it by dumping the clutch but it was barely turning over with the pedal to the floor and died as soon as I let off whats the problem here? I'm at my wits end?..... maybe solved the not running issue (forgot to b plug the t shaped plug into the side of the carburetor.) Won't know for sure till I can roll it again. And I'm at the bottom of the hill for now. Still have the starter issue for sure though Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2021 2 minutes ago, bottomwatcher said: Hook a jumper cable from battery negative to starter body. This will check if your ground cable is bad ok ill give this a try Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2021 Brilliant that did the trick starter is turning over now but im still a no start Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2021 so likely main ground is no good. Right? Quote Link to comment
None_zero Posted September 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2021 I suppose I should have known. This has been a problem in past however the efforts I've made to ensure a good ground have been nothing less than heroic. At a certain point you begin to think... well that won't be a problem in the future thats certain. Quote Link to comment
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