VintageRice Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 This just happened at my house........... Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 At least they look good right? Well, if I had to pick one on the chart they most closely resemble, it would have to be #3. And thats a 2.8% gain. So........... Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 But its a gain! :D Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I think my webers are like 2.5" #10s so thats nice, hope its legit lol. The filter being used with them skews the numbers as well. I dont run any but some, many, do. Quote Link to comment
kjz71521 Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Tristian, Are you taking orders on flanges ? I'm interested in adding some R1 carbs to my 1600.. Let me know how much your selling the flange for when you get some ready.. Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Once everything is figured out, I may offer a few sets in a very limited run (unless there's huge interest). I will let you know... Please PM me to make sure I have you down for interest. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Okay so i feel kinda dumb for asking this but... On downshift and decel i started smelling oil, its not visible yet but i definately smell it (open Down pipe at my feet), One is that rings or valves?, and two.. long shot but.. could my carbs being WAY out of sync cause excess vaccum pulling oil past the rings?? i havent done a comp test yet, but i thought of that driving the other day even though in the back of my head i know its gotta be boost taking its toll on my motor, which sucks cause i only have around 3k on it! Quote Link to comment
HudsonMC Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Okay so i feel kinda dumb for asking this but... On downshift and decel i started smelling oil, its not visible yet but i definately smell it (open Down pipe at my feet), One is that rings or valves?, and two.. long shot but.. could my carbs being WAY out of sync cause excess vaccum pulling oil past the rings?? i havent done a comp test yet, but i thought of that driving the other day even though in the back of my head i know its gotta be boost taking its toll on my motor, which sucks cause i only have around 3k on it! Could also be pulling oil past the seals in the turbo. 3k on the motor, but when was the turbo rebuilt? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Okay so i feel kinda dumb for asking this but... On downshift and decel i started smelling oil, its not visible yet but i definately smell it (open Down pipe at my feet), One is that rings or valves?, and two.. long shot but.. could my carbs being WAY out of sync cause excess vaccum pulling oil past the rings?? i havent done a comp test yet, but i thought of that driving the other day even though in the back of my head i know its gotta be boost taking its toll on my motor, which sucks cause i only have around 3k on it! Any motor that is revved up and suddenly has the throttle(s) slmmed shut will draw huge vacuum in the intake and combustion chamber, this is normally what happens. Yes, this could suck oil past worn rings. Under boost the intake is at positive pressure and this includes the intake valve and guide. Non boost deceleration with high intake vacuum as described above, can draw oil down between the valve and worn guide if the valve seals are also worn out. Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Any motor that is revved up and suddenly has the throttle(s) slmmed shut will draw huge vacuum in the intake and combustion chamber, this is normally what happens. Yes, this could suck oil past worn rings. Under boost the intake is at positive pressure and this includes the intake valve and guide. Non boost deceleration with high intake vacuum as described above, can draw oil down between the valve and worn guide if the valve seals are also worn out. well, i guess ill start with a dry and wet comp test, thats probally the easiest thing to check first, and i need to get my carbs synced (i know i know im lazy) but there nearly impossible to adjust on the car Quote Link to comment
kjz71521 Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 Let me ask the R1 crew a question... Would'nt it be easier to use the R1 snowmobile carbs because there is no angle for the intake ? Can't you just get flanges done and figure out the piping length and weld straight pipes to mount carbs.. I'm trying to figure out which pair I want to grab and the easiest way to get intake built... Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 I believe everyone has come to the conclusion that it doesnt matter what angle the carbs are at. RX1 carbs will work fine... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 I should imagine you can get away with some angle on the carb mount. After all the motorcycle runs under extreme acceleration and the fuel must all pool in the back.... and it still works fine. What about a wheelie for half a mile? It still continues to run. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 I believe everyone has come to the conclusion that it doesnt matter what angle the carbs are at. RX1 carbs will work fine... Ha, well put. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 Let me ask the R1 crew a question... Would'nt it be easier to use the R1 snowmobile carbs because there is no angle for the intake ? Can't you just get flanges done and figure out the piping length and weld straight pipes to mount carbs.. I'm trying to figure out which pair I want to grab and the easiest way to get intake built... Less available. Alot more wanna be bikers than sledders in the world. Ports still go from oval(on ka) to round (on carbs) and also arent spaced the same left to right. So runners have to angle inwards on all runners. With the R1 carbs an upward angle goes into that equation aswell. Thats three different changes made in size and direction of the runners within 2-3 inches. Its a royal pain. Thank goodness for wirefeed welders for filling in gaps, and die grinders for porting them back out again thats all I'm gunna say. Quote Link to comment
kjz71521 Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 I think I might just stick to getting some Bike carbs then.. Thankxz for tha connect Vintage, your CAD Design will get me a set of Intake & Exhaust flanges to start tho bruh.$40, i'll Take those.!! JM said if we supply a Gasket, he can have his CAD guy build us Intakes & Exhaust Flanges for Tha L-Series Headz out there too.. I'm still rockin the 1600 currently, so I want flanges to get started with Tuning some R1'z..! Soon as I find a decent KA-E hopefully in tha Town, it will get stripped, slapped on the stand and revamped this winter to a Built HyRevv R~1 Beast maybe Boosted, Dunno yet.... I would love to witness firsthand what that Pull feels like, everybody from Spud with tha Boosted L20B to Vintage with the KA both said It'z Fun Az S--T to Drive....WaaaAAaaaaa Takked Out.. Quote Link to comment
HudsonMC Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 The bogg brothers guys who make these manifolds for everyone for all kinds of motors were very specific about the angle of the carbs. They asked me what angle my motor was tilted so they could make sure the carbs were flat. I don't quite understand it either, though. May affect idle? Probably worth sending thise guys am email and just asking. I posted his email in this thread somewhere. Quote Link to comment
herculesinwyoming Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 wow this thread took a while to read. :thumbup: nice work! Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 Redid my throttle cable today. Got rid of my old linkage setup and this new setup is much more simple. I want getting that instant snap back return before. Now I do. Much better! Used same cable plus parts from another. Ditched the stainless sheathing. Put a 90 degree bend at carbs and put the cable directly attached to the petal. Oics explain Also got this at pick-n-pull !! Gunna be a rad wall hanger for my garage! Pow! Baby got back!! Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 I really have to get hot on this... Ive been slacking hardcore. 1 Quote Link to comment
kjz71521 Posted November 15, 2012 Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 Yea Mon, Just recieved my R1'z last night... They came in the mail and look great. I have a member making me a L-series mani to put them on my current 1600 that's in my truck, but the KA-E is on the ol' stand for a Winter Facelift with a flange comming from your hookup Vintage... Right on bro, not I have to figure out what shop I want to do my welding.... I might hit up a muffler shop or somthing.... I also think I'm gonna run a Yoshi pipe to go with those carbs... Zeitronix onboard might be a option also... Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted November 16, 2012 Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 so i finally got around to tapping into each intake runner lastnight, and tried building my own sync tool like the bike guys do. Curious if anyone else has had luck with this method? and what you did? After i attempted it and sucked a lot of oil into my motor i decided that i needed a much larger scale one for it to work Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted November 16, 2012 Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 Make it hap'n cap'n. And let us know how much better yer car runs. maybe I should turbo my Ka this winter.......hmmmmmm. Seems like I'm just ASKING for more intake leak issues lol. Quote Link to comment
holdmybeerandwatchthis Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Hi all, I have been thinking of doing this since the late 80s, showing my age now haha, My first car was a Datsun 1600 Rally Car, and I've had at least one Datsun in my driveway ever since, Most of the 1100cc bikes back then ran 36-38mm carbs and were too expensive, so were Dellortos, believe it or not Webers were cheaper. Anyway, back a couple of pages the discussion was on Ram Tubes/ Velocity Stacks, read those key words again, 'Ram and Velocity' the area of study needed is Volumetric Efficiency, The theoritical Volume of air going into a 2 litre should be 2 litres,ie 100%, however due to manufacturing tolerences and trying to appease the daily driver most manufacturers only get to about 70 to 80%, part of this is to keep air speed suited to the lower end of the rev range. When was the last time you saw a granny rev her (insert granny spec car here) to 7500 through the gears trying to race some scallywag in an old Datsun from the lights. This why we do these mods, power is a product of air into the engine, mix with fuel, explode it at a controlled rate, get the air out and wait for the wheel spin. :thumbup: Every mod helps to get more air/ fuel mix into the engine, increasing the efficiency given to us by the factory, and remember horsepower is a product of torque x revs / 5252. 5252 is the magical number where the the 2 curves cross, I don't know why but check out a dyno sheet. When you look into the air flow, gas dynamics, pulse tuning, etc through the engine there is a sweet spot that the engine produces maximum torque. The ultimate torque, ie piston pressure, is at one specific rev, related to air speed, air volume, stoichiometric fuel ratio, combustion speed, etc thats why container ships engines only rev to 120rpm, everything either side of that is a compromise, webers have a 4000 rev compromise spread, cams about 3000, headers about 3000 (we call them extractors in Oz), cam timing can move that torque up and down the rev range and variable cam timing uses a high and low rev timing that overlaps to give a greater (artificial) torque/ air speed spread.. The easiest thing to look at in relation to torque is a set of headers, tuned length 4 into 1s produce a narrow band where the 4 engine pulses are traveling at set intervals, each pulse dosen't interfere with the other pulses until they get to the collector as the pipe narrows it sends pulses, like ripples in a pond, back to the back of the valve, as the wave bounces off the valve and heads back out of the head it creates a vacuum of sorts that helps draw the spent gases out of the engine. Two stroke engines are a prime example of this but rely on the wave hitting the piston, check out the pipe on a dirt bike for an ultimate design, the same theory does apply to four strokes. 4-2-1 headers are called interference design and produce more reflected waves as the gas pulses interfere with each other and therefor spread the torque. A similar thing happens in the intake side, the wave bounces back from a closed intake valve and the air flow slows down, but the pulse bounces up the intake and bounces off the air waiting to get in the carb, once again there is a tuned length, as it reflects off the waiting air it creates a pulse that travels back in hopefully matching the valve opening event and draws more fuel and air into the motor, and the idea of the bellmouth on the end of the velocity stack is to slow the pulse to match the waiting air pressure and stop it spilling out and creating turbulance, now we're into laminar air flow, plane wings, spoilers etc, Turbos atificially cover up the short comings in design until you start hunting big numbers and get into compressor maps etc, the Honda Formula 1 cars were getting 1500hp out of their 1500cc v6 in the mid 80s. I remember the NA 2ltr Volvo race cars back in the late 80s early 90s had a volumetric efficiency of something like 112%, don't quote that number, but it shows that with the right tuning you can make your 2 litre motor ingest 2.24 litres of air and fuel to suit..... Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 :o Holy Crap. Quote Link to comment
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