VintageRice Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Get um !! Yzf r1 00' carb yamaha carburetor - $75 (Kent) http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/mcy/2987050390.html Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 been wanting to do this for a while now. I have had the carbs for about a year, had a motor but it was junk. Got a new motor got my intake built... So here we go! new motor the motor is from a drift truck. it is a 240 motor with truck tranny, truck oil pan, and Z24 truck headers. Looks clean inside! new valve cover? new timing parts. New cam? z24 headers clean intakes Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 I am going to use the L16 fuel pump. Drilling out the pump port. used shopvac to suck out shavings. The pump will bolt up and I will bolt on the pump lobe on the end of the cam. Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 I am going to use the L distributor. Set timing to TDC #1. Removed oil pump and dist shaft. The top shaft is from an L16, the bottom is the ka24e. The L shaft goes in and lines up. The L dist lines up a little different then the KA. I had to take the shaft out and line it up so the rotor pointed to the #1 contact in the dist cap. the final setting is almost horizantal from this angle. we'll see if that works Drilled and threded new hole to bolt on distributor. Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Pics of my new intake manifold. the runners are pretty long, they are about as high as the valve cover. I may have to have them shortened. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
DADZSUN Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 On the side of the carb in your picture there's a round "cap" with a "tube" running down to the float bowl. In between the 1&2 and 3&4 carb there's a connector piece. The tube runs down into the float bowl. Best I can figure its a bowl vent, but my setup came with fuel lines attached to a "T" so it could possibly be an overflow return line? That's the float bowl vent. I'm running mine open & pointing down. I've been running my R1s for several weeks now. I'm VERY pleased with how driveable they are, it makes the L16 quite liveable for my needs. I haven't done enough dirving to comment on the fuel efficiency but I will update down the road. Short term plan is to ordering a Pipercross filter from Bogg . I've picked up a generic throttle cable to get the choke control into the cabin, but I'm not convinced there's enough friction in the knob assembly to hold the choke open without manual assistance. A couple of new observations: - They take a little bit longer to warm up compared to the OEM carb (now I know why speed bikes idle for a bit before heading off). - The last couple of weeks have been cold and the one carb (#2 - from the master) was 'coughing' a bit as a result. I'm thinking of adding another 1/4 turn out on the idle mixture to make it 4 turns even. - Plugs started from a light tan (before the swap), to a light reddish rust (burning off the winter tank of gas) to a light brown color. 1 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 YES ! ! you guys rock!! R1 Carbs FTW! slingshot532 Did you make the intake or get it made? either way, looks GREAT! Also, I was considering using the L-motor fuel pump too but got a L16 pump lobe and it was a diff size from the ka24e cam bolt and seemed like it wouldnt work. Please let me know how youur doing this? U welding a washer inside the lobe to make it work or??? DADZSUN Thanks for the updates. Hearing this is getting me VERY fired up to hear my KA run!! Can't wait. What angle are your fuel bowls out of curiosity? Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 I had the intake made by a local guy. I am very happy with the way they turned out.The L16 lobe whent on my "test" head, it's not on the new motor yet. When I get it on I will take some pics. Speeking of pics... Mounted the intake/carbs, and installed front sump oil pan. I was able to angle the carbs down slightly, I think they are low enough. Quote Link to comment
pejsa Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 keep it up man you are making killer moves on this thing 1 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Just looks good having 4 in's and 4 out's. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: shortened up my runners and couplers. Gotta get my stainless t-bolt clamps. Next is shorten driveline, get a radiator outa something, fuel pump, and lines hoses and battery. Turn key and giggle like a school girl. 1 Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 ^NICE!! Looks so good in the car! Could you do me a favor and take some pics from the front of the motor, level with the valve cover so I can get an idea on clearance of the carbs? I angled mine down a bit at the couplers and they are just a bit taller than the valve cover. Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 keep it up man you are making killer moves on this thing Thanks bro!!! Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 this thread is a plethora or info for the R1 carb swap.. this should be pinned, i think! makes me wanna do these on the z24 engine when i get it... Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I got the pump lobe on today, It was a little baggy on the bolt but I think it will be OK. I had to reuse the origanal washer to space it out corectly. Without washer With washer Buttoned up the new motor. I had a little moment with the car to let her know everything would be OK and when she woke up she would have a bigger motor, then I pulled her battery and got to work. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I had a little moment with the car to let her know everything would be OK and when she woke up she would have a bigger motor, then I pulled her battery and got to work. :thumbup: LOLOL I did the same thing right before I yanked out my old L. Haha, it's been WAY longer than I hoped.........o well. Got spark plug wires today! thats my only update. So slingshot, are you going to put a FPR inline after the l16 pump or just hope the L16 pump is the right pressure? Quote Link to comment
pejsa Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 looking at the pic of your old motor i think it would be best if you used an s13 trans, the truck tranny would put your shifter way to far forward for your application. Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 LOLOL I did the same thing right before I yanked out my old L. Haha, it's been WAY longer than I hoped.........o well. Got spark plug wires today! thats my only update. So slingshot, are you going to put a FPR inline after the l16 pump or just hope the L16 pump is the right pressure? Yes the R1carbs need 3psi and the stock pump puts out 6psi(I have an inline gage). So I got a cheepy pressure reg from the parts store. looking at the pic of your old motor i think it would be best if you used an s13 trans, the truck tranny would put your shifter way to far forward for your application. The truck tranny is almost the same length, like within an inch. It will put the shifter a few inches forward because of the shifter mounting but that beats shortening the drive shaft. I can work around that when I cut the shifter down. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Yes the R1carbs need 3psi and the stock pump puts out 6psi(I have an inline gage). So I got a cheepy pressure reg from the parts store. Stock L fuel pumps are 3 - 3 1/2 PSI. or should be. Maybe the cheap gauge. Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Get um !! Yzf r1 00' carb yamaha carburetor - $75 (Kent) http://seattle.craig...2987050390.html Thanks ;) Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Stock L fuel pumps are 3 - 3 1/2 PSI. or should be. Maybe the cheap gauge. Could be the cheap guage. I guess I should double check? It may also be the cheap fuel pump putting out too much perssure? Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Got my cross member out and sent to be welded bakerds. What are you guys doing for tranny mounts? Mine is slotted, hacked, and cracked! Also got a throtle cable form a 200sx with pedal. It looks like it should work with some drilling. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 I used a poly (race) trans mount from a chevy t350 tranny. The standard, off the shelf, hot rodder, napa kinda part lol anyway it bolts right up and then I just hacked and welded my stock crossmember to fit it. Lika dis.... Was going to build a fancy tube trans crossmember but meh.........no one ever sees it. 1 Quote Link to comment
DADZSUN Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 DADZSUNThanks for the updates. Hearing this is getting me VERY fired up to hear my KA run!! Can't wait. What angle are your fuel bowls out of curiosity? I'd love to show you with a pic... how the hell do you do that on this forum? My Media button doesn't browse my computer. :confused: My bowls are just a bit above horizonal (front being higher). W/R to fuel pressure. I've read these carbs are very sensitive to pressure with 3psi being the max. Personally I haven't had any problems so I figure the stock fuel pump much run close to that. Correction, #2 carb was a *little* leaky in the bowl, but that's since stopped - figure it was a dry rubber seal or something. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 YOU OWE ME!! :) j/k very nice! We're going to have to start R1 carbs owners club pretty soon. lol 1 Quote Link to comment
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