Thenevercat Posted December 16, 2020 Report Share Posted December 16, 2020 What's up, I've been lurking for a while now and figured it was time to introduce myself and my new undertaking. Behold my $400 running (not quite driving yet) 620. I met a guy at a bar who later became a drinking buddy, long story short we all ventured to his place one night for a bonfire and this gem as sitting in the driveway. I asked him about the truck and he said "$400 it's yours! It runs but hasn't in a couple years." Me being the sadistic person I am said, "SOLD!" I've always wanted a Japanese pickup and this was on my top 5. After a AAA call a flat bead and a sleepless night of frantically making a shopping list I started the process of killing the cancer and getting her going. At first it was just firing on what I could dump in the carb. PERFECT! That means she runs (and man did it sound great!) Downside that means pretty much everything from the brake master and the clutch master/slave needed to be replaced. I saw where they had deleted the mechanical pump and swapped in an electric, took the electric out, cleaned it up and got it pumping again. And she lives! Needs a little fine tuning but she fired right up! https://www.facebook.com/100042390154303/videos/395187081904294/ I have some major plans, but for now the most important thing is getting her safe to drive again. I post almost daily updates on IG and TikTok: @Thenevercat The current list is: Rocker panels. - $79.58 + shipping Fenders. - $100 + shipping Blower motor assembly. Windshield. - $150-250 Rear suspension. - $60 + shipping* Brake lines - ORDERED Brake master cyl. - (Wilwood $134) standard $35 Rear wheel cylinders - $40 front L/R wheel cyl - $36 Clutch master cyl - ORDERED Clutch slave cyl. - ORDERED Fuel regulator* clutch master hard line. Cheers everyone! Nik 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 16, 2020 Report Share Posted December 16, 2020 Welcome to Ratsun 1 Quote Link to comment
Thenevercat Posted December 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2020 2 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Welcome to Ratsun 👋🤘 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 17, 2020 Report Share Posted December 17, 2020 Welcome, nice truck 🙂 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 17, 2020 Report Share Posted December 17, 2020 I would buff it out as is and roll it and only fix what needs to be fixed to keep the cost down clutch brake masters always buy 2 as they don't last if made in Taiwan/China Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted December 18, 2020 Report Share Posted December 18, 2020 THink I have the a whole blower motor for a 75 620 at the house. I can check later. 1 Quote Link to comment
Thenevercat Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 She's already rolling fine. The main concern is containing the frame rust and repairing the cancer spots that have already developed. Also picked up a new friend I think fits nicely with her. The clutch hydro system is all completely new now. the brakes are the only trouble (mainly those stupid 3 way banjo type wheel cylinders in the rear) Both of the rear bleeder screws snapped off and I'll have new wheel cylinders here hopefully within the week. Drove her around the neighborhood before the brakes locked up a little and aside from some carb adjustments she runs and pulls hard! As far as the light body work I've started grinding, filing and fixing most of the bed on one side. My main issue now is the hood has clearly been wrinkled so I'm on the hunt for a hood in better shape that's not going to cost me the price of the truck. 1 Quote Link to comment
AlexDeLarge Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 I hope ,for your sake, the wheel cylinders that are on the way have the "y connector" included. Many places picture the wheel cylinders with them, but end up coming without. Gotta have them for your bleeder.... Quote Link to comment
Thenevercat Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 4 minutes ago, AlexDeLarge said: I hope ,for your sake, the wheel cylinders that are on the way have the "y connector" included. Many places picture the wheel cylinders with them, but end up coming without. Gotta have them for your bleeder.... I was sure to order ones that have the Y connector. I was able to bleed them via the banjo bolt, maybe not the most effective way but seems to have worked in a pinch. 1 Quote Link to comment
gene knight Posted December 23, 2020 Report Share Posted December 23, 2020 welcome to ratsun Quote Link to comment
Thenevercat Posted January 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 Coming along. Decided to go raw metal with a diamond DTM clear coat (not coated just yet) Lowered 3" now (wish I could go a tad lower but not willing to risk ripping out the torsion adjusters driving) LOTS of new parts (new tail lights and plugs wired up, new door and windows seals) Currently the dash has been pulled (the damn panel shattered so time for a custom dash) Rebuilt all the switches and steering column controls. Wheels and tires coming soon 15x10 -51 (or -60) still need to math with the flares. Tracked down a bunch of vacuum stuff on the carb so pulling and redoing the gasket. Found out I have a Canadian carb...? So making a block off for the booster this weekend as well. New bed latches OTW. FYI if you order the window seals from ebay (Thailand) the inner seal will not fit out of the box. Buddy has a 5.3 just hanging out I might throw in it. But still hoping I can find a KA24de for a reasonable price. 1 Quote Link to comment
73dat Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 Not bad at all, me like it welcome to Ratsun Quote Link to comment
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