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The Acromonious life... VG Goon. Electrical BS. Why the car even runs at all. Cut into tiny pieces!


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22 easy fix with a relay and changing the wiring over to the ECU as in the diagram. Not sure I'd worry about the shielded wiring.

 

12 MAF definitely going to cause run issues. How is yours set up? 

 

34 may be messing up your timing or putting it in limp mode

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My MAF is set up to run as factory as possible. It has a Stillen velocity stack adapter and a K&N filter over that. The Velocity stack adapter is bolted straight to the MAF. Several inches of factory tubing out of the MAF to the throttle body.

 

34 the knock sensor seems I replaced that. Maybe not. Easy fix tho.

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/23/2020 at 7:14 AM, WAGON JON said:

Who sells a VG30 carburetor kit?

 

David Carrol used to offer a modified pathfinder TBI manifold to accept a Holley 350 2 barrel carb. Uncertain if he does now. The only other issue is ignition. The VG distributor is strictly a computer controlled unit. You need a Saudi VG30S distributor, which is like finding hens teeth, or a DUI ignition VG30E distributor, with a conversion to an external coil, as the HEI style cap wont fit under the hood. 

 

Im told these 2 barrel kits work very well, and get rid of the problematic older EFI system.

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My first EFI setup for my VG consisted of a 1987 300ZX Wiring Harness, 1987 200SX Intake, Can Am Box First Gen and a 300ZX Distributor. It ran great. 

 

Current setup is the same, but, I replaced all the electrical with the FAST EFI 2.0 system. My friend ran it on his car and it worked awesome. He is currently switching to a VQ engine for more power. 

 

My car is not on the road yet. Finishing build still. 

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Fuck that carb setup.  I'd rather have broken EFI than a carb any day. 

 

How does it run with the MAF unplugged?  I always do the unplug the MAF test.  If it idles perfect with it unplugged it means your MAF is messed up in some way.  IE intake pipe to short, bad MAF something like that.  If it won't idle you got other issues like vacuum leak, bad fuel pressure something like that.  

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  • 1 month later...
On 7/22/2020 at 10:17 AM, DanielC said:

EFI engine controls rely on getting accurate voltages from the various sensors, and part of that means the grounds not only have to all be good, in some cases they have to go to a common point.  A ground connected to an intake manifold, instead of the engine block can mess with the EFI computer.

 

ever seen this issue with a KAde?

the ground kit im using (wiring specialties) grounds to both & frame. solid connections everywhere.

 im having issues with ECU power loss when cranking (no electrical issues until starter is engaged)

ECU works fine in a running car.

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with the starter wire disconnected from the harness, key from ON to START, power is maintained at the ECU.

when i manually engage the starter(screwdriver method) it also kills the ecu power. key is ON.

 

also tried a brand new switch, separate power to ECU...

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yes, direct to the harness(tech support suggestion). same results.  

11.3-10.7v while cranking.

ECU powers back up as soon as either cranking method stops.

 

many hour$ later... me either. ive sent the harness back for them to lie there is nothing wrong and send it back fixed.

thanks!

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