thisismatt Posted July 24, 2020 Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 22 easy fix with a relay and changing the wiring over to the ECU as in the diagram. Not sure I'd worry about the shielded wiring. 12 MAF definitely going to cause run issues. How is yours set up? 34 may be messing up your timing or putting it in limp mode Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted July 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 My MAF is set up to run as factory as possible. It has a Stillen velocity stack adapter and a K&N filter over that. The Velocity stack adapter is bolted straight to the MAF. Several inches of factory tubing out of the MAF to the throttle body. 34 the knock sensor seems I replaced that. Maybe not. Easy fix tho. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted July 25, 2020 Report Share Posted July 25, 2020 I know with the KA there have been a lot of reports of problems when the MAF is too close to the throttle body. So, it might be worth piping it farther away to limit turbulence and pulses around the MAF. Here's the stock setup: Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted July 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2020 Yeah I thought of that too. I may rethink the piping as you have suggested. Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted August 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2020 Who sells a VG30 carburetor kit? Quote Link to comment
rosso Posted August 23, 2020 Report Share Posted August 23, 2020 Experimental Engineering sells a carb manifold in Tacoma, Washington. You can find him on Facebook He sells a bunch of VG30 conversion pieces. https://www.facebook.com/ExperimentalEngineering https://www.facebook.com/david.carroll.374 https://www.facebook.com/login/?next=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fgroups%2F1848877351796281%2F#_=_ Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 23, 2020 Report Share Posted August 23, 2020 Don't do it....... Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted September 2, 2020 Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 On 8/23/2020 at 7:14 AM, WAGON JON said: Who sells a VG30 carburetor kit? David Carrol used to offer a modified pathfinder TBI manifold to accept a Holley 350 2 barrel carb. Uncertain if he does now. The only other issue is ignition. The VG distributor is strictly a computer controlled unit. You need a Saudi VG30S distributor, which is like finding hens teeth, or a DUI ignition VG30E distributor, with a conversion to an external coil, as the HEI style cap wont fit under the hood. Im told these 2 barrel kits work very well, and get rid of the problematic older EFI system. Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted September 2, 2020 Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 My first EFI setup for my VG consisted of a 1987 300ZX Wiring Harness, 1987 200SX Intake, Can Am Box First Gen and a 300ZX Distributor. It ran great. Current setup is the same, but, I replaced all the electrical with the FAST EFI 2.0 system. My friend ran it on his car and it worked awesome. He is currently switching to a VQ engine for more power. My car is not on the road yet. Finishing build still. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted September 2, 2020 Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 Fuck that carb setup. I'd rather have broken EFI than a carb any day. How does it run with the MAF unplugged? I always do the unplug the MAF test. If it idles perfect with it unplugged it means your MAF is messed up in some way. IE intake pipe to short, bad MAF something like that. If it won't idle you got other issues like vacuum leak, bad fuel pressure something like that. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 On 7/22/2020 at 10:17 AM, DanielC said: EFI engine controls rely on getting accurate voltages from the various sensors, and part of that means the grounds not only have to all be good, in some cases they have to go to a common point. A ground connected to an intake manifold, instead of the engine block can mess with the EFI computer. ever seen this issue with a KAde? the ground kit im using (wiring specialties) grounds to both & frame. solid connections everywhere. im having issues with ECU power loss when cranking (no electrical issues until starter is engaged) ECU works fine in a running car. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 (edited) delete duplicates Edited October 24, 2020 by hang_510 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 Sounds like your ignition switch Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 with the starter wire disconnected from the harness, key from ON to START, power is maintained at the ECU. when i manually engage the starter(screwdriver method) it also kills the ecu power. key is ON. also tried a brand new switch, separate power to ECU... Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 Can't think of anything else besides battery voltage dropping too low for the ECU. You're saying it still happens if you run direct power from the battery to the ECU, bypassing the ignition switch? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 yes, direct to the harness(tech support suggestion). same results. 11.3-10.7v while cranking. ECU powers back up as soon as either cranking method stops. many hour$ later... me either. ive sent the harness back for them to lie there is nothing wrong and send it back fixed. thanks! Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 I guess at that point I would be looking at anything else tied into the start circuit, even possibly by accident? Quote Link to comment
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