Jump to content

Block plug??


510revisited

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

It's coolant but if you want an accurate temperature of what's really going on in the combustion chamber, use the thermostat housing. That part of the block will be the coolest. The head is always hotter. There's a thermal vacuum valve that is usually broken or it's disconnected, as most delete their EGR anyway. I took the valve out and put a plug in the hole just for looks.

 

fkfCFt9.jpg

 

izWsyiW.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
35 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

It's coolant but if you want an accurate temperature of what's really going on in the combustion chamber, use the thermostat housing. That part of the block will be the coolest. The head is always hotter. There's a thermal vacuum valve that is usually broken or it's disconnected, as most delete their EGR anyway. I took the valve out and put a plug in the hole just for looks.

 

fkfCFt9.jpg

 

izWsyiW.jpg

 

 

I was thinking of tapping an extra heater tee where the heater core hoses come off the head. But the instructions state a place with lots of flow. Unless I'm wrong, I dont see that being a high flow area. 

8wJRZR4.jpg

Link to comment
3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

You would need to have the heater turned to HOT for that to work. In the off or cold position the heater valve is closed.

That's what I thought. So with my only options being the intake manifold, thermostat housing, heater tee, or the plug this thread is about I'm at a loss. I will contact holley in the coming days and speak to them about the thermostat housing. I thought, for a hot second of removing the stock temp sending unit and going with that hole. Is there any place on the head that could be drilled and tapped for the sensor? If need be I can get creative. Even thought about welding on a fitting to the underside of the intake. Where the coolant actually flows. But then I gotta worry about cooking the sensor and wires. 

Link to comment

Put it in the thermostat housing where ALL the coolant constantly flows, and its the hottest you'll see anywhere int he engine.  That's where we run ours with EFI.

The heater hose is extremely problematic - worst possible place.  

The intake manifold is what you do on V8s where coolant flows through the intake where the T-stat is located.  

Remove the vacuum switch  that you're not using and install the sensor, right adjacent to your other coolant temp sensor for the dash gauge.  Or did the factory put it in the wrong place??? 

🤭

 

 

Link to comment
On 9/15/2019 at 8:13 PM, 510revisited said:

9/16 head. Tried to take it off but she's gonna need some persuasion.

There are small 10mm head bolts around the front of the timing chain area that have to come off as well as the 10 head bolts. If you've never taked a head off before make sure you block the timing chain tensioner from falliung out.

 

 

Z car thermostat housings can have the water temperature sender hole and up to 3 more for various senders also.  This one is upside down.

large167124.jpg

Link to comment

Damn, and I just put a new new one on a few months back. I'll look into the idea. Right now I'm trying to work out a way to make the connection from intake to thermostat to lower radiator hose with hose and AN fittings. Debating, if room permits, on putting a fitting in between intake and thermostat in the hose for the sensor. 

Link to comment
2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I predict Holley telling you that the location in the t-stat housing is ideal.

I'm hoping your correct sir... just for clarification, the coolant comes out of the head, into the housing, through the t-stat into the upper half of the radiator, only to cool and then recycle from the bottom up..? I should know this.

  I recieved the new t housing. A little rough but I think it may work. I was able to remove 2 of the 3 sensors on the housing. One is busted up pretty bad so I'll probably drill it out. I'm curious if anyone knows the thread sizes on the holes. Bpt like all the others? Npt? It doesn't really matter, but I'm still curious. Im gonna add an "an" fitting to run coolant from the lower radiator hose. The biggest hole is just a wee bit too small for the holley temp sensor. I may just drill and tap it accordingly. Nice thing is that the other holes allow me to run my bypass in a better fashion. Thanks again datzenmike for the suggestion. Your knowledge is amazing. 

Link to comment
On 9/21/2019 at 7:12 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I predict Holley telling you that the location in the t-stat housing is ideal.

Nope. They insist the intake. I have a buddy who has a buddy who tigs. I'm gonna just pull the pin and weld an npt bung onto the manifold. I have one smog intake, and two non smog intakes. One of them should work.

Link to comment

Trial and error might be the best method here. It would be easiest to try the t-stat housing first, because you don't have to weld anything.

 

I still say the t-stat housing is the best area for a coolant temp sensor. I have doubts that the people at Holley really understand the Nissan L series.

Link to comment

Well let me say first, thanks for all the input. I'm not saying you guys dont know your shit. Obviously you must, which is why I'm here in the first place. 

7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Trial and error might be the best method here. It would be easiest to try the t-stat housing first, because you don't have to weld anything.

 

I still say the t-stat housing is the best area for a coolant temp sensor. I have doubts that the people at Holley really understand the Nissan L series.

When I emailed holley, I specified what the motor was. Hoping the dude would maybe look it up and say differently BECAUSE this isn't a small block. I know this is a first, and I'm a Guinea pig. Maybe there's a reason I'm the only one... 🤣. However, I like stoffregen's idea. I will put the coolant sensor in the thermostat housing I bought on Mike's suggestion. If it doesn't work, I'll weld a bung to one of my 3 intakes and give it a shot. Worst scenario, I blow it all up! He did say I could run it in between the intake and t housing, but that's a separate set of problems. 

     In hindsight, I will try the line too before welding..

Edited by 510revisited
  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.