lerinmiller Posted November 18, 2008 Report Share Posted November 18, 2008 I just purchased a 1970 521 from a friend (this is my 3rd datsun, i have owned 2 280zx's turbo with motorsports aero kits). I picked up the truck for about 600 with lots of other parts and was told that the ei dist is a direct swap. When i removed the points dist the rotor was facing toward the engine and when i installed the elec ig the rotor was pointing the complete opposite way. I changed the spark plug wires around to match up where the points would face, played with the advance and retard but couldnt get anything. I need someone to help me or tell me what i am not doing right. I have been all over the web trying to find instructions on how to install but no one says how. is it just that simple and i am thinking to far into it, or do i need a new coil, resistor etc or lack there of. :confused: Please help. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted November 18, 2008 Report Share Posted November 18, 2008 http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech2.htm the plugs don't go "exactly" opposite... pretty close though... There is this video one of our members did... I have the full version on DVD and it has some great dizzy stuff on it... this one may have that part too, worth a go. http://www.guba.com/general/search?query=hainz&set=5&x=0&y=0 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 18, 2008 Report Share Posted November 18, 2008 Find TDC compression on #1, set timing notch on 12 degrees mark. Place distributor about half way between it's full advance and retard positions. Check rotor location on distributor, is it under a plug wire on the cap? If very close rearrange the wires 1 3 4 2 in a counter clockwise direction on the cap. If not close to a wire, drop the oil pump and turn the oil pump/distributor spindle ahead or back a tooth or two, to get the rotor under a plug wire. Quote Link to comment
lerinmiller Posted November 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2008 i have pretty much already tried that and it didnt work. is someone able to post a pic of how theirs looks along with some wire diagrams Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 Did you change just the distributor or did you change the pedastal base also? an you get us some pictures of the parts that you used? Something makes me think that maybe you have a remote igniter distributor. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 This is the remote igniter type. Needs a box for the electronics, mounted in the cab. http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/EIdizzyremoteigniter.jpg[/img]"] This is the match box type. It bolts in and works, just two wires and sometimes a ground wire. All electronics are in the small black 'match'box on the distributor side. http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/EIdizzymatchbox.jpg[/img]"] Looks like this on the outside: http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Eidizzy.jpg[/img]"] Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 if you have a matchbox dissy and want to use the stock ballast resistor and coil hook B to the blk/wht wire that is going to the ballast resisitor(get a piggyback onnector from the parts store). C to the - side of coil. remove all the other wires. if you use the matchbox dizzy and want to get the full potential out of this you need to get a 79 200sx coil or a MSD Blast 2 coil as they are made to run on straight 12volts Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 Let me add more confusion...:rolleyes: if you have this dist... instead of using the remote igniter box & ballast you can run a HEI module... you can find them at any auto parts store for $15. I used one designed for a 77 Camaro. Like the guys said too youll need the matching pedestal for your dist. AND a coli menat for EI [taller & wider]. Plus..make sure the oil pump drive is at the 11.28 position AND watch the Hainz vid as zuum510 mentioned & call it good... http://www.guba.com/general/search?query=hainz&set=5&x=0&y=0 Quote Link to comment
lerinmiller Posted November 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 here is a pic of it. its a mallory case, model number 2558901, i searched it and it said it was for an L series 4cyl. it just has the red and black wires coming out of it. it has the pertronix ignitor with 44u-v4 on the top. there is no vacuum adavance on it, i dont know if that matters or not. let me know what you guys think or know. thanks for all the feed back everyone. This is a great place to learn your stuff. thanks again. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 Ahhh, so you have a mallory points dizzy with a pertronix setup in it. You will then retain your ballast resistor and coil... I believe these have an "infinite" adjuster that allows them to be set where ever you want... correct me if I'm wrong. If I am correct you will just have to play with it till you get it right and then set the timing with a light, there is no vacuum advance on those things, its mechanical only... its more of a race setup. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Vacuum advance is essential for good off idle performance, economy and drive-ability. This would be a good one if not going below 2K RPMs. For around town the points one would drive better. Quote Link to comment
Bandit240 Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 Let me add more confusion...:rolleyes: if you have this dist... instead of using the remote igniter box & ballast you can run a HEI module... you can find them at any auto parts store for $15. I used one designed for a 77 Camaro. Like the guys said too youll need the matching pedestal for your dist. AND a coli menat for EI [taller & wider]. Plus..make sure the oil pump drive is at the 11.28 position AND watch the Hainz vid as zuum510 mentioned & call it good... http://www.guba.com/general/search?query=hainz&set=5&x=0&y=0 I need more info on this. I spent all day trying to get my 78 datsun to fire and she has none at all. Nothing even comes from the coil. It has the remote system with a little box under the dash. How do you wire it to work with an HEI module? The box under the dash has been buzzing for years and i think it died on me. Also does anyone have a dizzy like that they would sell. Mine seems to have alot of slop in it. Really kicking my own ass for getting rid of my parts trucks now. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 I need more info on this. I spent all day trying to get my 78 datsun to fire and she has none at all. Nothing even comes from the coil. It has the remote system with a little box under the dash. How do you wire it to work with an HEI module? The box under the dash has been buzzing for years and i think it died on me. Also does anyone have a dizzy like that they would sell. Mine seems to have alot of slop in it. Really kicking my own ass for getting rid of my parts trucks now. http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=184 Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 it seems like this is a fairly straight forward install. now my question is can i use my existing cap or do i need one for a 79, the year i got the dizzy out of. shes due for a tune up anyway but i figure i should ask so i get the proper parts. Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 got mine installed today. and wow what a difference. wiring was easier than i thought it would be, Quote Link to comment
Bandit240 Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 Wired up the module today and now the truck runs great. I guess the little box under the dash died. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 The box under the dash has been buzzing for years and i think it died on me. No moving parts in the remote igniter box. Probably the seat belt warning buzzer. Glad you got her going. Quote Link to comment
Bandit240 Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 Yea i took the box apart today and everything looked ok. I dont know what or how it was buzzing, but it was buzzing. Don't have a seat belt buzzer, took that out years ago. Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 my matchbox died :( so i am on hte hunt again for an EI dizzy. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 Are you using a matchbox coil with it? Hardly ever hear of an EI going bad. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 I have a 2 "spare" matchboxes and the ei coil... Ready to go. Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 Are you using a matchbox coil with it? Hardly ever hear of an EI going bad. no. i forgot to pull it. it ran fine for like 3 days with the points coil, then no spark at all. swapped my points back in and it fired up perfect. could i use an EI coil from say a rabbit? i ahve a few of them floating around. the EI ones, as far as i know, didn't have the resistor wire. its a Bosch unit. a red top. I have a 2 "spare" matchboxes and the ei coil... Ready to go. what would you want for a complete setup? coil and dizzy?? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 check the connections around the box, ive only seen 1 actually bad. most worked again after cleaning the contacts. remove the box and double check that its getting a solid connection too. i will be picking a couple up this weeklend if you still need one. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 Zuum TY for posting my writeup :cool: Bandit- glad you got yours going again. Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 (edited) check the connections around the box, ive only seen 1 actually bad.most worked again after cleaning the contacts. remove the box and double check that its getting a solid connection too. i will be picking a couple up this weeklend if you still need one. will do right now in fact. edit: just cleaned em up. they were gross. now teh connections look all nice and clean. i will install it tomorrow while the kids at school and report my findings. thanks guys! Edited November 26, 2008 by moparvwfreak Quote Link to comment
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