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Which engine for my 210...SR20DE vs KA24DE


sunny310

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You would simple use the truck transmission.

 

Don't overthink it to much, even if someone gave you a free L16 (universally unloved) it wouldn't be a bad thing, you could bolt on a Weber DGAV, header, clean up the ports, run a mild cam and end up with a motor that had a solid 30hp more. Obviously the bigger the motor the better but there really isn't a wrong answer here. 

 

You'd have to check Datsun1200.com but there may be an L-series crossmember that bolts into your car. There is 1200s and B210s had a L-series crossmember so something from a Stanza/A10 or 200SX. (If I have a chance I'll look)

 

Again I like the simplicity of the carbureted motor, if you use a matchbox style dizzy in the L series you won't even have to rewire anything.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Tom1200 said:

You would simple use the truck transmission.

 

Don't overthink it to much, even if someone gave you a free L16 (universally unloved) it wouldn't be a bad thing, you could bolt on a Weber DGAV, header, clean up the ports, run a mild cam and end up with a motor that had a solid 30hp more. Obviously the bigger the motor the better but there really isn't a wrong answer here. 

 

You'd have to check Datsun1200.com but there may be an L-series crossmember that bolts into your car. There is 1200s and B210s had a L-series crossmember so something from a Stanza/A10 or 200SX. (If I have a chance I'll look)

 

Again I like the simplicity of the carbureted motor, if you use a matchbox style dizzy in the L series you won't even have to rewire anything.

 

 

If I decide to go the L series route I would want an L18 or L20b over the L16 cuz more displacement. How hard is it to find an A10 crossmember though? Ive been looking online try to find one but no luck. Starting to look into engines n transmissions and a pedal box cuz my car is an auto

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No matter the engine you will probably need to mod or flip the front cross member. The A10 is simply L series ready, or close to it.

 

With engines, if you have the choice, go larger displacement. Smaller stroke have to rev higher and work harder to make the same power a larger one makes all day with no sweat. They also make power lower down in the RPM range where most people drive 99.999% of the time.

 

Automatics should not be dismissed out of hand. They are easier to drive, actually there's nothing to do but steer, gas to go brake to slow. They never miss a shift. They are always in the correct gear. They never get tired of shifting. They are easier on drive line components and the chassis. They are great if you have a physical handicap. They do, however, remove you from some of the connection with your vehicle. Perceived automatic 'sluggishnes's can be corrected for by increasing the differential ratio, installing a higher stall speed torque converter, adjusting the line pressure and modulator for faster harder engagements and raise the shift points. If I was keen on an L series automatic I would get a 4.375 differential, a L471B over drive 4 speed automatic from a Maxima, the torque converter from a 280zx turbo and modify the valve body..... but I digress. 

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13 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

No matter the engine you will probably need to mod or flip the front cross member. The A10 is simply L series ready, or close to it.

 

With engines, if you have the choice, go larger displacement. Smaller stroke have to rev higher and work harder to make the same power a larger one makes all day with no sweat. They also make power lower down in the RPM range where most people drive 99.999% of the time.

 

Automatics should not be dismissed out of hand. They are easier to drive, actually there's nothing to do but steer, gas to go brake to slow. They never miss a shift. They are always in the correct gear. They never get tired of shifting. They are easier on drive line components and the chassis. They are great if you have a physical handicap. They do, however, remove you from some of the connection with your vehicle. Perceived automatic 'sluggishnes's can be corrected for by increasing the differential ratio, installing a higher stall speed torque converter, adjusting the line pressure and modulator for faster harder engagements and raise the shift points. If I was keen on an L series automatic I would get a 4.375 differential, a L471B over drive 4 speed automatic from a Maxima, the torque converter from a 280zx turbo and modify the valve body..... but I digress. 

Well you just made a good case for the KA and L20B...as for the auto trans Im the type of guy who loves to shift gears so manual trans is a must. The auto trans in my car does work well though...even tho its a bit lazy

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The only Datsun auto trans I've ever kept intentionally was in a B210. I built a solid A15 for it with dual 40's that made about 130hp. The customer had the trans built by a drag shop and had them also build a custom high stall converter. What a pile of crap. The shift points were completely at odds with the high rev nature of the motor. We never did get it to work well.

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More is known about standards.

 

That shop probably knew nothing, but how to change the torque converter. There's a governor on the mainshaft and the valve body and springs can be customized to raise the shift points. There's an interesting mod for the L4N71B using the zx turbo modulator and shorter rod, drilling new holes and enlarging others in the valve body and shimming springs for harder faster shifts with less slipping. Should make it survive 600 hp.

 

Back in the day I noticed when displacement reaches about 350 cu. in., if the car, any make, had an automatic it was close to as fast as a standard, all things stock and equal.

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On 12/25/2018 at 8:21 AM, datzenmike said:

More is known about standards.

 

That shop probably knew nothing, but how to change the torque converter. There's a governor on the mainshaft and the valve body and springs can be customized to raise the shift points. There's an interesting mod for the L4N71B using the zx turbo modulator and shorter rod, drilling new holes and enlarging others in the valve body and shimming springs for harder faster shifts with less slipping. Should make it survive 600 hp.

 

Back in the day I noticed when displacement reaches about 350 cu. in., if the car, any make, had an automatic it was close to as fast as a standard, all things stock and equal.

Yes, that was about 20 years ago, back when import drags were just up and coming. Since then, I have noticed a few shops that specialize in import auto trans mods.

 

I have noticed that too. Seems like a low HP motor with an auto trans gets killed by the slushiness of the gear shifts and probably the weight of the full torque converter too.

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This was back in the 70s. I would race an identical car as mine but automatic and figure an easy win... and god damn that thing leaps off the line! and plants every gear perfectly and never misses a shift. Below about 350 cu in.... the standard easily wins.

 

Automatics are set up with soft shifts for buyer comfort. The shift points are lower than optimum and about all you can do is manually shift them. The end use is for those that don't mind this but there are some things about an automatic that are admirable. I like that the torque converter has up to a 2 to 1 multiplication of torque at lower revs.

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3 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

If you do the ka swap install the 5 fsw571c.  The original Bs  can't handle the ka power plus there are 10x the number of them In the junkyard.

What vehicle did this trans come in?

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On 12/20/2018 at 7:56 AM, datzenmike said:

The '97? and up D21 Hardbody 2 wd with 71C 5 speed would be perfect. The Car EFI intake looks cleaner and the EFI harness is separate from the car harness, the truck is integrated into the main harness and hard to salvage. The truck oil pan won't fit any car chassis so...  ]2eDeYe has engine brackets that might also work on the 210.

 

Does anyone read?

 

Anything 2wd that the KA came in. This would include the S13/14 but the transmission is longer than the Hardbody. This might make a difference, but it's the same transmission.

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