Al- u minium flywheel questions.

[510revisited]

My question... what kind of clutch set should i buy for an aluminum flywheel. Oe material, or the expensive "race, performance" clutch set. Motor runs, thats all i know. Small history, i just removed the tranny, clutch flywheel today and had it turned due to a 3/16 grove cut into the wheel the full diameter of the clutch disc, 7 7/8. Car did drive prior to signs of clutch slipping. I did adjust the slave cylinder rod first. 

In my build thread Banzai510 and i discussed this. He thinks heat is a factor. I agree... machinist caught that it was aluminum and said it was a "high performance, race" flywheel. But should still work. He also said that the aluminum had been hardened on the surface where the disc rubs. Here are pics of after. I dont have any before. I can say this, there is no steel ring plate that screws onto the area where the clutch disc rides. 

 

[datzenmike]

Now we have two posts on the same thing so there will be duplication of answers and confusion.

 

4 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Using the engine to slow down???? Which is easier and cheaper to do??? Replace the brake shoes or pull the engine/transmission and replace the clutch and or the release bearing???? Learn to stop that bad habit.

 

Hainz is right, aluminum is soft, it needs a steel insert for the friction disc. I'd not waste the time with it. In 6 months it will be toast again. Get a cast iron wheel in 200mm or 225mm. The Z car wheels are 225mm and scalloped.

 

 

Check the front or engine side. Some are scalloped like the one on the left and is 21 pounds. The other is 29 pounds. A flywheel by definition stores kinetic energy in the form of spinning weight. It's like having a running start in a race, it helps you get the car weight moving from a stop. There is very little revving and slipping the clutch with a heavy flywheel.

 

That said, once moving, the flywheel is a liability, as the engine must divert some power to spinning that weight up with the car. It never goes to waste but slows the acceleration compared to an extremely light one.

 

An aggressive performance clutch will make a meal of aluminum

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I told him to write a new thread so more people to respone back

I never seen this tyrp a flywheel before and who would sell one like this under what porpose. I would just like to know myself if soemthing Im missing.

 

510 revisited.Mayb this pressure plate et up is a Performance set up anyways I never seen a USA made pressureplate before.

 

ezist is to get a 200sx car 200mm flywheel to make everything simple.

 

[datzenmike]

Maybe the 6 holes are for a bolt on steel surface? PP screws into it?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The groove could have been cut in for the steel clutch mating surface. As Hainz said, I have never seen an all aluminum flywheel before, but I have seen plenty with a steel wear surface installed.

[banzai510(hainz)]

usually there be the treaded holes for the srew to hold the plate.

 

that is to the machinist and see if he can get some money from the recycler.

[510revisited]

Ya, sorry for the double topic. I was just taking another members advice. When i removed the presure plate (from the 6 bolt holes) i noticed there were no screw holes for any type of steel insert. Oh well. I plan to order SOME type of flywheel this week. Be it z or 200sx. Since i have the opportunity to be picky, i may do the roadster clutch setup.. just for sh!ts and giggles. 

[scooter]

a new good setup is the 200 dollar kit from godzilla raceworks.

13 lb cromoly rb26 flywheel with the spacer to make it work on L series flywheels... now you dont have to spend 350+ for a fidanza flywheel

 

or you can buy the press fit ring for 40 bucks and run whatever rb flywheel your heart desires.

[datzenmike]

 

Maybe the steel plate is sandwiched between the PP and the flywheel by the 6 mounting bolts.

.

[G-Duax]

I wouldn't put an all aluminum flywheel on a 36hp beetle...

They were a bad idea when someone dreamed them up back in the early '50s, and typically don't last long because no mater what clutch disk you can buy, it will chew up the soft friction surface of the flywheel.

 

The only hope you have is to buy a steel disk meant for another brand of flywheel, and have your flywheel machined to accept it, including all the holes to attach one to the other. And that isn't much better due to the vastly different expansion rates of steel & aluminum.

Every used 2 piece I've ever handled had issues with loosening, and wallowing the mount holes out.

I think Mike is on to something, a steel disk attached by the same dowel pins, and bolts as the pressure plate.

I make my own ring gear spacers, so any machine shop could make a disk with the clutch bolt pattern out of say, 3mm or 4mm ground flat stock.

But it would cost more than just buying a new light weight billet steel off eBay. Even a Chinese flywheel will out last the pos pie pan you have.

 

 

[G-Duax]

By the way, my steel flywheel and clutch, weighs less that your pressure plate alone.

[datzenmike]

3 hours ago, G-Duax said:

I wouldn't put an all aluminum flywheel on a 36hp beetle...

.....  Even a Chinese flywheel will out last the pos pie pan you have.

 

 

 

?

 

If this was turned down you may not need to recess it.

 

Aluminum expands twice as much as steel when heated.

[510revisited]

So ill put a link to my build thread here. Ive already purchased a steel flywheel and new clutch kit. Now im on to bigger and better problems. Go read here....