L20b u67 head

[banzai510(hainz)]

I always pressure wash the motor the previous day if possible to to see everything. Yes It might be harder to get front cover off if oil pan still attached. needs to drop slightly

Also if a cork gasket it might rip the oil pan gasket but victor renz made a gaskt fornt cover kit that had a section on gasket just for this or you can splice one in or use a another oil pan gasket and cut the section in there but see if possible to get this done w/o ripping it otherwise they become leakers and take your time.

 

 

I think I lower the pan so ezer to install the front cover.  I would install head 1st then the front cover with the pan lowered then tighten everything up

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yes, what  he said.

 

I would drop the pan completely and use either a new gasket or just "the right stuff" RTV to glue it back on. I know it adds to the job, but it's not impossible to get the pan out with the engine in the car/truck. You may find it easier to drop the crossmember and one side of the steering tie rod.

 

And to add to what Hainz said, torque the head AFTER you install the front cover.

[Crashtd420]

Don't forget those 2 bolts going up into the head....

[datzenmike]

They come down from the head but I know what you mean.

[8m0untainman8]

If i have to loosen these head studs again the gaskets gonna blow before i even get to turn the truck on. Jeeeze lol i thought i was ready.

[wayno]

As I recall at least one of the water pump bolts goes all the way thru to the block.

[datzenmike]

Yes it does.

 

There are two dowels in the timing cover so it has to come forward 1/8" before it will wiggle.

 

If this was off before it may have been 'glued' on with RTV by a previous owner. This is so unnecessary and only a very poor mechanic (or GM owner) uses that shit. Let the gasket do it's job. The engine was put together dry without it, so why would you? Helped pull a six cylinder head off a '62 chev. Gasket had been smeared with 'gasket shellac' which was normal in the 40s and 50s.. It's pretty much one way and on forever. Used 2x4s to pry it off. What a fucking mess..

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yes, L series front covers should never get RTV (unless it is badly damaged by porosity).

 

Oil pans are another matter. I've stopped using gaskets on oil pans in favor of the right stuff brand RTV.

 

Will the head gasket pop after this is all done? Don't know, but it's possible. Did you already torque the head?

[8m0untainman8]

Yes, and then again when i had to put the cam in lmao.

[datzenmike]

If in doubt change it for a new one ... but as it hasn't been started so never up to temperature it hasn't been fully crushed by the expanding block and head.

[8m0untainman8]

Finally got through the timing chain cover and am putting everything back together. Lol. MastersLow.

I am missing bolts for my thermostat housing, one in the side of it broke, and the longer mounting bolt also broke. Im looking around the shop for bolts, but no garuntees yet.

Also is it normal to have to stack washers on the fuel pump bolts to tighten it?

[racerx]

No, not normal to have stacks of bolts. PO, probably lost that bolt and was too long and rigged it like that. Make sure ur fuel pump, plastic spacer is there, maybe 1/4 in thick, or thinner

[datzenmike]

Make sure the front mounting bolt on the thermostat housing is not too long or it hits the timing chain inside.

 

Washers are not needed for the fuel pump. There is a plastic spacer that probably missing.  Don't  run without the spacer as the pump arm will be in too deep.

 

PUMP / GASKET / SPACER / GASKET / HEAD

[8m0untainman8]

Yeah, im missing the plastic spacer, ill have to look around and see if i can find it.

[8m0untainman8]

I found a bolt that fit the thermostat housing and doesnt hit the timing chain, now i just need one to actually seal the housing, one of the shorter two.

[datzenmike]

You could make one from 1/4" aluminum...

[8m0untainman8]

Theres probably one sitting around thatll work, im just barely awake. Lol.

Is it possible to post pictures and videos via mobile? i can never see pictures in the feeds on my phone.

[8m0untainman8]

Im going to go to a parts store soon and ask about the fuel pump seal, and a new thermostat housing completely. Plus i need a new belt anyways.

[banzai510(hainz)]

fuel pump has studs in the head so it should be just nuts you use and a lock washer

 

part store not going to have a lower housing. maybe the top and they are many versions of them.

[8m0untainman8]

Do i have to consult with you folks about the lower housing then?

I found a bolt but the threads came right out of the housing like sand.... lol

[banzai510(hainz)]

the lower  thermosstat housing bolts to the head. If thats stripped then you got the get the head helicoiled or better yet maybe a keensert if its not in the water gasket area when mated up

[8m0untainman8]

Its not the bolt going to the head, its one of the ones that holds the top housing to the bottom.

[banzai510(hainz)]

most people should have a spare around if you got a photo of yours as a exact one to get.

 

Im in Covington if need one badly

where you live. There is Carter and Frank in North end that have tons of parts and Ted way down south.

[datzenmike]

You could drill them out to an oversize and tap in any handy thread. Don't do this... as I found on my L20B...

 

 

 

The long bolt was broken but held on with corrosion. Had to cut everything to get it off and replace. I used anti sieze on the threads and the shaft to keep corrosion away.

 

[8m0untainman8]

Damn. I took thermostat back off and cleaned out the hole, and found a bolt that grabbed hard enough to lock in afterwards. I now require an allen wrench for thermostat because of new bolt. Lol Its an allan bolt from a bike headset.

Once i get a ride to the store to get the fuel pump seal, i can finish up finally!

I might replace the entire oil pan gasket for the hell of it too though.