Lockleaf Posted July 29, 2017 Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Use another host. I use postimage.io Lots of guys are using imgur. Join Datsun510.com and host them there is another option. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 29, 2017 Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Ya pics will help.... What happened to the rod? Quote Link to comment
HOOD_SQUIRREL Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Pics should work now. Quote Link to comment
HOOD_SQUIRREL Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Used some emery to smooth out the lip and damaged area. The rod/cap and the rod bearings seems tight. The pics below might describe it better. Tight around the bearings, with a small gap on the face where the rod cap and rod meet. I have an e mail out to clegg to see if they have a hook up on single press fit rod, the ones I bought were refurbished and not a complete set (1,2,3,4,5,6) so I am hoping they have single refurbished rods. Although if usable I would prefer to not go that route. The bearing is static against the rod, and the dynamic surface will be rod bearings to crank which is a smooth surface. Will the rounded cap rod faces make throwing a rod bearings inevitable? 1 Quote Link to comment
HOOD_SQUIRREL Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 EDIT: I think the rod/piston and cylinder wall are ok. I ran a hone through the #1 Cylinder and cleaned up the Rod. Everything looks like it is OK. So.... There were a lot of parts with this 510/VG. I found 1x press fit rod/piston/cap hiding in a box. What I cant figure out is if the Press Fit Rod/Cap I found could be used in place of the damaged one. Can I swap the Piston over to the undamaged rod, and use it in place of the damaged one? The parts are all stamped, but I cannot figure out what the markings mean. Damage Refurbished Rod stamped with 901-1 16E-2 Random Garage Box Press fit Rod with Cap 25-1 02P Extra 6x Press fit Rods without caps (could machine to mate cap with rod, right? At that point could I just order new larger bearings?) 24-1 02P Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 30, 2017 Report Share Posted July 30, 2017 Fix pictures in this thread so we can see what is going on. Quote Link to comment
HOOD_SQUIRREL Posted July 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 Is everyone else having issues seeing the pictures? They were embedded in my last 3 posts, and I can see them fine. Friend took a look at the rod/cylinder and thinks its OK. The face that the bearing presses against is unaffected (only on the outside face, where the bearing does not touch), and the rod opening size is unaffected. I will still measure all of the openings and Plastigage the rod/crank to be sure. Cylinder wall honed and is good. There are still the vertical (see pic??) scores, but the wall is not scored. Running a fingernail across it you would never know. Again... I can see my pics. If no one else can let me know. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 31, 2017 Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 Just make sure there is no burr.... on my l series there was a clearance check between the rod width and the side of the crank... just make sure that won't be effected.... 1 Quote Link to comment
HOOD_SQUIRREL Posted July 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 No bur at all. If anything I am worried about the absence of steel. Going to move forward with using the parts I have. Will check clearances and spacing on everything I can. If it checks out, Ill move forward. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 31, 2017 Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 When you say absence of steel I assume you mean the little knicks, as long as they are smooth and below the surface You should be fine... anything raised would be your concern... 1 Quote Link to comment
HOOD_SQUIRREL Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 Back at it! Had some issues with rings, but Hastings is great and got me all sorted out. My goal is to be mocking the VG up in the dime by November! Block, pistons, heads, water and oil pump are in. I've been trying to find a clear drawing of coolant plumbing for the VG30ET (help?). I am removing my heater and want to know what that does to plumbing. Does coolant need to circulate from lower outlet just above the water pump, to the back of the block (below intake) and into the back of the intake. See below, the piping with the 90 deg angle, does that connect to the outlet on the block just above the water pump? Quote Link to comment
HOOD_SQUIRREL Posted November 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 Hey ALL! Almost done with the new motor mounts and test fitted the VG last week. Everything looks like it should bolt right up to where the last owner had the engine/transmission. Also got the VIN verified so I can register the car. IF ANYONE KNOWS WHERE TO FIND A VG30ET MANUAL WIRE HARNESS I COULD USE THE HELP! The next big step is wiring the engine and rather thank working through the frakenharness I have, I would prefer more of a plug and play option. Anyone with a harness for sale, or if you know a work around to make a NA harness work, please let me know. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 I've been told the 280zx turbo harness can be used with just some wiring modifications. Might be worth doing some research to verify that rumor. Quote Link to comment
HOOD_SQUIRREL Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Thanks Lockleaf! Love the Roadster. Ok, Ill look at 280 harnesses. I also found a site that looks like they have a 300zx harness for less than $200, however price is so much lower than others I have seen I am suspicious. So before I mount the engine I want to figure out my water/cooling system. There are 3 holes in the block and 1 on the intake, and I am not sure what any of them are for. Eliminating heater, has simplified my coolant somewhat, but I still need to plug holes and plumb the turbo cooling lines. Here are some pics of what I am trying to figure out. Can all of the holes on the block be plugged, where does the turbo coolant stock come from? Intake Opening, needs sealed our routed somewhere. Driver Side (Thinking this hole gets plugged, there is no room for anything else with the mounts I have) Passenger Side (This one I am not so sure of) Same Quote Link to comment
HOOD_SQUIRREL Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Follow up. Does anyone know what these holes are for? ^^^^ Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 Hey bud, I am mid conversion with an N/A VG30 as well, sorry to see you arent getting answers anymore. Have you downloaded an FSM for a turbo 300ZX? Quote Link to comment
nl320what Posted March 28, 2018 Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 There are alot of resources with pictures from VG30 equipped vehicles as the Z32, Nissan Truck, Maxima... found this on first search of VG30 Coolant: https://z32.wikispaces.com/cooling+system Quote Link to comment
HOOD_SQUIRREL Posted April 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Hey Forum. Thank you guys for the response. I think people have lost interest since Ive slowed my posts. A cold winter killed my motivation..... Getting started in the next few weeks, thank you for the link nl320what. I figured out how to route my coolant through the throttle body and then the turbo. Here is a pic from ~ December when we mocked up the mounts. Should be trying to bolt eh engine in the next month or two. 2 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 I don't know if you know this yet but the truck intake breathes better. Car intake looks better but yeah. Somewhat tempted to do this myself but neither time nor resources and already kinda planning a vg30 620. Been seeing the vg used more as a swap recently though Quote Link to comment
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