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HOOD_SQUIRREL

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    28
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About HOOD_SQUIRREL

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 09/16/1986

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  • Website URL
    http://s350.photobucket.com/user/Hood_Squirrel/library/Miss%20510

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver, CO
  • Cars
    1972 Datsun 510, 1975 F150, 2012 Ram 1500
  • Interests
    Buttz, Buttz, Buttz
  • Occupation
    "Logisticate":
  1. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Hey Forum. Thank you guys for the response. I think people have lost interest since Ive slowed my posts. A cold winter killed my motivation..... Getting started in the next few weeks, thank you for the link nl320what. I figured out how to route my coolant through the throttle body and then the turbo. Here is a pic from ~ December when we mocked up the mounts. Should be trying to bolt eh engine in the next month or two.
  2. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Follow up. Does anyone know what these holes are for? ^^^^
  3. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Thanks Lockleaf! Love the Roadster. Ok, Ill look at 280 harnesses. I also found a site that looks like they have a 300zx harness for less than $200, however price is so much lower than others I have seen I am suspicious. So before I mount the engine I want to figure out my water/cooling system. There are 3 holes in the block and 1 on the intake, and I am not sure what any of them are for. Eliminating heater, has simplified my coolant somewhat, but I still need to plug holes and plumb the turbo cooling lines. Here are some pics of what I am trying to figure out. Can all of the holes on the block be plugged, where does the turbo coolant stock come from? Intake Opening, needs sealed our routed somewhere. Driver Side (Thinking this hole gets plugged, there is no room for anything else with the mounts I have) Passenger Side (This one I am not so sure of) Same
  4. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Hey ALL! Almost done with the new motor mounts and test fitted the VG last week. Everything looks like it should bolt right up to where the last owner had the engine/transmission. Also got the VIN verified so I can register the car. IF ANYONE KNOWS WHERE TO FIND A VG30ET MANUAL WIRE HARNESS I COULD USE THE HELP! The next big step is wiring the engine and rather thank working through the frakenharness I have, I would prefer more of a plug and play option. Anyone with a harness for sale, or if you know a work around to make a NA harness work, please let me know.
  5. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Back at it! Had some issues with rings, but Hastings is great and got me all sorted out. My goal is to be mocking the VG up in the dime by November! Block, pistons, heads, water and oil pump are in. I've been trying to find a clear drawing of coolant plumbing for the VG30ET (help?). I am removing my heater and want to know what that does to plumbing. Does coolant need to circulate from lower outlet just above the water pump, to the back of the block (below intake) and into the back of the intake. See below, the piping with the 90 deg angle, does that connect to the outlet on the block just above the water pump?
  6. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    No bur at all. If anything I am worried about the absence of steel. Going to move forward with using the parts I have. Will check clearances and spacing on everything I can. If it checks out, Ill move forward.
  7. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Is everyone else having issues seeing the pictures? They were embedded in my last 3 posts, and I can see them fine. Friend took a look at the rod/cylinder and thinks its OK. The face that the bearing presses against is unaffected (only on the outside face, where the bearing does not touch), and the rod opening size is unaffected. I will still measure all of the openings and Plastigage the rod/crank to be sure. Cylinder wall honed and is good. There are still the vertical (see pic??) scores, but the wall is not scored. Running a fingernail across it you would never know. Again... I can see my pics. If no one else can let me know.
  8. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    EDIT: I think the rod/piston and cylinder wall are ok. I ran a hone through the #1 Cylinder and cleaned up the Rod. Everything looks like it is OK. So.... There were a lot of parts with this 510/VG. I found 1x press fit rod/piston/cap hiding in a box. What I cant figure out is if the Press Fit Rod/Cap I found could be used in place of the damaged one. Can I swap the Piston over to the undamaged rod, and use it in place of the damaged one? The parts are all stamped, but I cannot figure out what the markings mean. Damage Refurbished Rod stamped with 901-1 16E-2 Random Garage Box Press fit Rod with Cap 25-1 02P Extra 6x Press fit Rods without caps (could machine to mate cap with rod, right? At that point could I just order new larger bearings?) 24-1 02P
  9. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Used some emery to smooth out the lip and damaged area. The rod/cap and the rod bearings seems tight. The pics below might describe it better. Tight around the bearings, with a small gap on the face where the rod cap and rod meet. I have an e mail out to clegg to see if they have a hook up on single press fit rod, the ones I bought were refurbished and not a complete set (1,2,3,4,5,6) so I am hoping they have single refurbished rods. Although if usable I would prefer to not go that route. The bearing is static against the rod, and the dynamic surface will be rod bearings to crank which is a smooth surface. Will the rounded cap rod faces make throwing a rod bearings inevitable?
  10. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Pics should work now.
  11. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    HELP! Long story short. Putting pistons in to check clearance with Plastigage. I wasn't paying close enough attention and while using a ring compressor tool to put the rings in the top oiler ring slipped around the piston, rubbing against the cylinder wall. I got the piston in a little and noticed the damage to the cylinder wall. In may haste I used the crank to knock the piston rod back out (I know dumb, but I couldn't get to the rod end with where the crank was, and didn't think to take the crank off, and was a little paniced). Ahhhh, dumb. But the rod was damaged as well. Cylinder wall. Abrasion feels very slight and I think it can be smoothed out. I can still see most of the machine work etching. Thoughts? http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q434/Hood_Squirrel/Engine%20Rebuild/unnamed%202_zpsrrdcmgnj.jpg http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q434/Hood_Squirrel/Engine%20Rebuild/unnamed%201_zpsammbkdxj.jpg Rod. Can smooth out damage, but concerned that this means I need a new rod. Or maybe 6.... Which is expensive. Thoughts? http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q434/Hood_Squirrel/Engine%20Rebuild/unnamed_zpsymmiwajz.jpg http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q434/Hood_Squirrel/Engine%20Rebuild/unnamed%203_zpsbjluffml.jpg Pictures are loaded to Photobucket link. I haven't figured out a way to host 3rd party images since Photobucket stopped hosting.....
  12. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Good timing crash. I think you posted this at the same time my neighbor was saying "Hey, maybe just lay the new pistons and rods next to the old ones". After we checked with dimple forward we realized all the oilers matched, and everything looked good. Going to go ahead and line up oilers and not worry about the numbers (unless I can put 1 or 2 in the right place) Plastigage on the crank ~0.0015 clearance on the main bearings. Crank is in, and feels nice and smooth. Next stop PISTON TOWN!
  13. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Crash, That is correct. Those are not the rods from the engine, I had to get new rods to work with my new pistons after boring the cylinders. From what I have read PISTON orientation is important (dimple towards the front), it sounds like although everyone would prefer rods be installed correct, it is not critical. Although I am not sure, if anyone has heard of rods orientation being an issue please let me know before this all goes in.
  14. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Alright Alright, Truck was in the garage for a while, but my space is open and time to start assembling the block. Last night replaced the oil pump and reattached the crank belt sprocket. Next step should be to set the crank into the block, and start putting rings on pistons and dropping them in. Which brings me to my next question. Was looking at my pistons/rods and realized that I do not have rods labeled 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. My rods are numbered 2, 2, 5, 4, 5, 6. Does that matter in a VG30ET? Or can I just orient the piston nipple to the front and call it all good? At this point I bought refurbished rods, and do not want to purchase more. Will these work? http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q434/Hood_Squirrel/Engine%20Rebuild/IMG_0761_zpsuuohkyhq.jpg
  15. HOOD_SQUIRREL

    1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap

    Good news everyone! Heads and block are in my freshly organized and set up shop! Check out some pics! My goal is to do things right, do them once, and take my time. I have limited experience, but I am certain being clean and organized will be a game changer. Block Bored 30 over New Freeze Plugs Cleaned/Boiled mating surface cleaned up Snapped exhaust manifold bolts removed Heads Cleaned Gone through New Valve Seals Mating surface cleaned up Rods and Pistons New Pistons Refurbished Rods Pressed and ready to go Rebuild kit $429 Press fit Rods $165 (could not find a kit with floating pistons) Machine Work $460 Total $1,054 "Remaining Budget" $246 Looks like Ill be over budget by the time I start wiring and plumbing this thing in. But for the time being I'm looking good. Ill post some updates as the block starts to go together.
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