260z RB25DET swap

[CGraves]

Edit: Put the L28 on hold. I've got plans for it but my friend talked me into doing the RB swap.

 

Welp figured it might be beneficial to document this process instead of starting a new topic everytime I have a question.

 

Also I'm posting this on mobile so I can't embed pictures. If anyone wants to do that for me that would be swell.

 

http://imgur.com/a/lIZUQ

 

Okay so that's my 260z which has an L24 with dual SU carbs. The engine is an L28e out of a 77 280z. I'm gonna build the motor a little bit and either upgrade it to a megasquirt system or triple carbs.

 

Also I need a little help with identifying some of the stuff in the last picture. I think I know what some of the stuff is like the AFM but I have no idea what the other parts are or where they go.

 

Hopefully I'll update this thread over the weekend because I'm home for fall break.

[Dattokai]

[NC280z]

I see a set of dropping resistors, engine mounts, fuel pump, and a relay (catalyst relay?) as well as the ECU

[CGraves]

Bout time for an update. Unfortunately my phone decided to destroy the pics of the taking it apart process and end pictures so I only have like 3 pictures.

 

That being said I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the smaller round tubes are inside the exhaust ports? 

 

As for the performance the plan right now is flattop pistons and triple webers, as for cam/valves/springs/etc I was hoping someone could recommend some products? As it stands right now I was planning on buying the MSA stage II or stage III cam kit and then spending a bunch of money at datsunspirit. I'm gonna give them both a call tomorrow and see if I can get some more info and figure out what they recommend for a daily driven car before I pull the trigger on anything. 

 

Also big thanks to dattokai for embedding those pics for me!

 

[CGraves]

Random question but does here know of any companies that have an RB25+5 speed in stock or that will have one in a couple weeks?

[datzenmike]

The small tubes are for injected air from a belt driven pump. They reach down into the exhaust port closer to the exhaust valve and provide oxygen rich air to ignite the unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust stroke.

 

What do you need an RB 5 speed for? won't fit the L28. 

[CGraves]

@mike

 

I'm looking for the rb engine and trans. I'm thinking about doing an RB swap instead of the L28 for the 260z and put the L28 in my 240z instead.

[datzenmike]

Try an engine importing company.

[Bleach]

Looks like a good start! L28 is the way to go for fun.

 

The Megasquirt fuel injection is the route to go for more horsepower and torque.

The tripple carbs will SOUND way better.

[datzenmike]

Nice new image Kevin. :thumbup:

[CGraves]

The mustang in the back of the first picture should be going to it's new owners next week sometime so after that I'm gonna start sourcing an RB25 and take that L28 apart.

 

@mike 

 

Yeah that's what I meant. What companies should I be looking for? Every thread I find on this is either several years old or is full of dead links. Most companies I already know of say it'll be like February before I could get one.

[CGraves]

 

Bought an RB25! I found a good deal on a local RB25 full swap so I went and picked it up today. I'm going home next weekend and I plan to fab up some mounts and such so expect some pics next weekend.

 

Also is there a way to edit the title or should I just make a new thread?

[Lockleaf]

Edit your first post. Select full editor. Edit title.

[CGraves]

@lockleaf

 

Thanks I appreciate it!

 

Is there anyway I can keep my stock speedo and tach? My friend said might be possible to convert them to a digital signal. I did some research and I can't find anything about it. Alternatively does anyone make stock gauges that have been modified to make this work?

[Lockleaf]

Options.

 

Find an electric Speedo with the same sweep as your stock gauge. Swap the electric guts into your gauge bezel. If it doesn't read correctly, use a Dakota digital unit to correct that signal so it reads right.

 

You can also use a digital Speedo converter to drive your stock Speedo. Look up "cable x" or "Abbott box".

 

Not sure about the tach, unless you can gut it and put in electronic guts

[CGraves]

Before I start this update can I get some feedback on the size of the pictures? I personally think they are way too big but unfortunately the iPhone 7 takes really big pictures. I can resize them down a little before I post them but if the size is just right then I can leave it.

 

Also if anyone wants to follow me on instagram I'll probably be posting a lot of pictures over there that don't make it on this thread. Instagram

 

Update #1

 

I'll start this one with some better pics of the RB itself. As you can see it's actually really clean and the gauge cluster said it only had around 40k miles on it and I'd be inclined to believe it given the condition. 

 

 

As for progress on the car me and my dad started taking it apart but unfortunately we got a late start today so we didn't get much work done. 

 

We got the hood off, radiator removed and unplugged everything the engine and took the console out. Tomorrow all we need to do is pull it out.

 

 

 

As for the RB I got the power steering pump, AC compressor, CAS, and top timing cover off. Unfortunately the salty air in the container rusted the cam gears a little so I'll have to pop those off and sand them down.

 

 

 

Plans for tomorrow are take remove the engine, trans, driveshaft, and dash from the Datsun and then get a crank puller and take the crank pulley and bottom timing cover off and see how timing stuff looks.

[CGraves]

Update #2

 

Unfortunately this is going a lot slower than I had hoped because I didn't get a lot of the bolts and screws with this motor so I've had to run all over town hitting up hardware stores.

 

Got the motor mostly assembled. Sanded and polished the valve covers then painted them.

 

 

Also removed the engine, trans, driveshaft and put them in the engine pile.

 

 

Tune back in Tuesday when I attempt to make motor mounts.

[CGraves]

Hey guys quick question. I know it's difficult to put coilovers on the S30 but I'm curious exactly why it's difficult?

 

Everyone says something about struts? I probably have the skills to make coils work but I don't know a lot about suspension. What exactly makes it so difficult?

[Ranman72]

Hey guys quick question. I know it's difficult to put coilovers on the S30 but I'm curious exactly why it's difficult?

 

Everyone says something about struts? I probably have the skills to make coils work but I don't know a lot about suspension. What exactly makes it so difficult?

nothing is difficult but buy techno toy tuning coil over kit and cut the old spring perches off and weld the coil over perch on the rest is bolt up 

you can buy other brand coil over set ups but the techno ones are great 

[Slowpoke]

Coilovers are not difficult, they just take some planning and access to a good welder. The BC Racing kits and T3 kits are pretty good options but install and adjust differently. I have the BC Racing setup and i installed them in about a day. If you have the skills to do the RB swap a adjustable coil over setup will be cake.

[CGraves]

Okay so small update. I ended up getting some motor mounts as an early Christmas present and I cut and re welded my oilpan to make it a rear sump. All I need to do now is modify my oil pickup and I'll be able to get the engine set in the car. Unfortunately I need someone to TIG weld my pickup so that set me back on progress.

 

Now onto my big question. How the FUCK do you remove the IMSA 3 piece spoiler? I got the middle part off ez pz but the edge piece have a stud inside them and I can't figure out how to get a wrench on the bolt outside of cutting a big hole in the rear quarter. I spent almost 11 hours trying to remove a single piece today. I will literally PayPal someone $10 if they can tell me what I'm missing here.

[paradime]

The outside pieces are often glued on. Not sure if this is the same product as yours but it's also posable it's screwed in from the outside and the heads were mudded over before painting. Grab a magnet and fiddle around. 

 

[CGraves]

I got them out. I can't imagine how in the world this was put in given how difficult it was to take out but I digress. I have no idea why that metal was cut up but since it was already cut I decided to bend it so I could get my hand a little farther in there and I barely managed to squeeze it. I'll be bending the metal and fixing it up before I put that interior panel back on. You can see the small hole that was drilled in the top right on the second picture for the stud. There was a nut on the stud on the other side of that piece of metal.

 

I did find a surprise on the 2 end pieces however. They were dated! One said 11/11/85 and the other had 11/14/85 written on the inside. I have no idea if this spoiler is actually that old but if it is then it's in amazing condition given the age and it fits perfectly. Does anyone have any idea how much it might be worth?

 

 

I also have a rear sump oil pan now. This was actually a pretty simple process all you have to do is cut it all the way around flat to the baffles and just flip it. Thankfully Nissan decided to pre drill the blocks for rear sump for some reason so all I had to do was a take a punch and knock the brass plug out and swap the dipstick with the plug and plug the front hole. I'm gonna have to trim some of the baffle away to get my pickup and dipstick to work but that's no problem.

 

 

Also my gauges arrived yesterday. I ended up going with the autometer GT series for the Speedo and tach and the automarine white series for my oil pressure, boost, and water temp.

 

 

As it stands I need an intercooler, exhaust, driveshaft, and mount my catchcan and fuel pump and run lines and I should be ready to wire it up and crank it.

 

Also would a side exit exhaust on the front fender just behind the tire be a bad idea? Are there any problems I would run into doing this aside from it being loud?

 

For a price tally currently I've spent $2400 for the engine+trans, and $1150 for the gauges, fuel pump, surge tank, nismo FPR, and new timing belt. I sold my old engine+trans+gauges for $400 so I'm at a grand total of $3150 so far.

[Bleach]

Do you have any recommendations for where to purchase an RB25DET?

[CGraves]

@bleach

 

I bought mine from All JDM Motors in Charleston South Carolina and the quality is awesome so far. They did a compression test on the motor when they got the front clip skyline that it came from and we did another one when I was there in person and it passed. Of course I haven't cranked it yet so we'll know if the motor gets a final pass in like 2 weeks.

 

I'd recommend either them or JapaneseClassics in VA. Don't just check importers websites though, actually call them and ask because 9/10 times they aren't very proactive with updating their inventories.