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About NC280z

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    1975 280z, 1987 300zx *sold*

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  1. That should be a condenser and it is used for noise suppression as you've stated. I'm not certain what the rating is in Farads for the original unit, maybe someone can chime in and help point you to a replacement. Your car should still crank without the condenser connected so if you're having a no-crank issue it may be due to something else dealing with your ignition system. The 70-78 Z cars had a ballast resistor for the ignition coil that needed to be connected for the engine to start, but your 79zx uses a matchbox distributor and should not have any sort of ballast.
  2. So I had a dyslexic moment today, the distributor I received from Rock Auto has the 4 prong e12-93 ignition module, not the 2 prong e12-80. By EFI box do you mean the L-Jetronic ECU? I've kept the L-Jetronic on my '75 Z and it's all stock. I would imagine that the e12-93 module would be the one that needs a specific ECU because my understanding now is that the "I" and "W" connections go to some sort of knock sensor. Am I correct in this? The 2 prong e12-80 module came on the earlier ZXs (79-80/81) which had an ECU similar to the 75-78s.
  3. From what I've read, the matchbox distributor sends a hotter, more consistent spark when compared to the earlier EI system, which is why people will upgrade to the matchbox distributor on their 75-78 Z cars. When I installed the ZX distributor I removed the remote igniter and the ballast resistor (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html). I've tested the MSD blaster coil I'm using and both the primary and secondary resistance readings are within spec. A better description of what's occuring is that it almost sounds/feels like a rev limiter/cutout is occurring with the ZX distributor when the engine reaches operating temps.
  4. The original distributor is EI, and it has two pickup coils. The ignition transistor is remotely mounted in the passenger footwell. The original setup runs fine but I've read that the ZX setup is a worthwhile upgrade
  5. I apologize for not fully describing the setup. I've put the distributor on my 1975 280z, and it's a reman distributor with the generic (no-name manufacturer) 2 prong e12-80 module.
  6. Good evening all, I've ran into a bit of an issue with my ZX distributor swap. The car will start fine but once it's warmed up it will hesitate/buck and misfire while the rpms increase up to and beyond 1400 rpms. I have the initial timing set at 8 btdc, and I've even tried disconnecting and plugging the vac advance and it will still hesitate and misfire if the engine temp is at the halfway mark. After some research I've found that the distributor Rock Auto sent me is from an '82 ZX (stamped D6k81-01), and it provides the highest total advance out of the matchbox dizzys. I've swapped back to my working Federal dual-pickup distributor, I'm just hoping someone could provide some ideas as to why I'd have a part-throttle misfire after warmup with the ZX distributor, and not with the '75s stock distributor. I should note that I'm running an n42/n42 setup with flattop pistons, so the compression is a bit higher than on the later ZX engines.
  7. Good evening everyone, I have a '75 280z and I've started the process of swapping the distributor out for a matchbox distributor from a ZX. I've followed the instructions online at atlanticz.ca, verified that the plug wires are in the correct order and the car will turn over but not start. Just when it seems like it's going to start I'll hear a click and then the engine will stop turning over. The distributor is a new (reman) unit and the coil is a MSD unit. I'm using the 280zx distributor base, and I have the Dizzy's base plate pointing to the middle of the base tab, pending the car warming up to set the timing. The car was running fine prior to the swap. Any advice will be appreciated. **UPDATE** I've got the car running with the ZX dizzy, it needed to have the base plate re-indexed and it fired right up. Now my only issue is that my tachometer is not working after the swap, it's a '75 280z so I'm guessing that I may have an early tachometer that requires a tach adapter. Am I correct in thinking this?
  8. Time Left: 13 days and 11 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I've got a 4-speed from a 1975 280z and a long-nose 3.70 R200 open differential that are up for grabs. The R200 will need to be shimmed or the side bearing replaced, but the 4-speed is functional (I swapped for a 5-speed). I'm located in the Stafford area of VA. Both are free (local pickup only), but I would greatly appreciate it if the recipient of either part could provide me with a passenger-side interior fusebox kickpanel for my '75 280z.


  9. I've found spacers on Zcardepot that will let me use 240/260z insulators, so I've order new insulators for the front and rear. Here's an odd question for you all, would the fact that the fuel tank is primarily situated on the passenger side contribute to the height difference? I've got around half a tank of fuel, and the passenger side is a little less than 1/2" lower than the driver side (rear only). The front wheel gaps are even.
  10. So looking at the strut tower insulators, it looks like the driver's side insulator is torn and the centerpiece of the insulator has dropped out. I'm guessing that this is what is causing the driver's side to sit higher? Now here's the difficult question, I can't find 280z size rear insulators anywhere. I know you can use the 240/260 mounts, but this would lower the car and I've already got lowering springs on the vehicle. What are my options?
  11. I've found that Gabriel produces non-gas struts for our cars, do you think they would work fine with lowering springs?
  12. I'm thinking that maybe it's the KYBs. I just went outside and brought the rear of the car up far enough to lift the tires off of the ground. I let the car back down, and the passenger side went back to a 2 1/4" distance tire to fender. It would seem that maybe the strut isn't holding up? It would make sense, given that these struts apparently aren't good to use for lowering. Also, thank you for your help tonight, datzenmike! I appreciate it greatly.
  13. Both rear springs are marked "Tokico 5022R", are you saying that they may have worn at different rates? I've had the set on for ~4 years. What else is odd, is that before I took the car out today the passenger side was around 2 1/8" from tire to fender, it's dropped over the course of a short night's worth of driving.
  14. Good evening all, The rear suspension in my '75 280z is uneven, the driver's side is 2 1/4" from tire to fender lip, and the passenger side is 1 3/4" from tire to fender lip. I've adjusted the transverse link bushings (inner and outer) according to the manual by having people sit in the car as the bushing bolts are torqued to spec. I've got Tokico 5022 lowering springs in the rear, and KYB Gas struts. When I purchased this setup it was not known that KYB Gas struts aren't supposed to be used with lowering springs, and now I'm guessing that this is my issue. Would this be the most-likely culprit? Thanks in advance to anyone who can point me in the right direction. Also, what struts and vendors should I use? MSA seems to be sold out of Tokico HPs.
  15. On a different note, does the wear pattern on the ring look good?
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