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About NC280z

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    1975 280z, 1987 300zx *sold*

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  1. Good evening all, Does anyone have the radio wiring diagram for a '75 280z? The wiring diagrams in the FSM on Xenons30 for 1974, 1975, and 1976 do not match the wiring colors for the harness-side connector for my Hitachi KM-1520 radio. I'm reverting to a stock radio from my retro-style replacement. My radio has the following colors: White White/black Blue Black Red/blue The harness side connector has: White White/black Blue Green/white Red/Blue The harness-side colors do not match the color scheme shown in the FSM, but the radio matches completely. Everything matches up except for black and green/white, which line up with one another when the connectors are mated. Is green/white another color code for ground? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated
  2. It was leaking at the rear previously, but now it's only the front, starting at the pan bolts located just under the alternator. Do you recall the brand gasket you used?
  3. Well, I've un-dimpled the one or two bolt holes that needed it, checked everything with a straightedge, and resealed the pan using the "competition" gasket that MSA sells. I warmed the engine up to operating temp and it seems that the gasket is weeping slightly, starting at the passenger side front of the pan. It's not a significant amount of oil, but it is still very frustrating. I've applied black RTV to the areas noted in the FSM, used gasket tack only on the pan side of the gasket, and torqued the bolts in a star pattern to 7 ft-lb. I'm at a complete loss on how to seal this damn thing. Anyone have gasket recommendations, such as brand/material (cork vs paper)?
  4. Awesome pictures and tips on repairing the L series oil pan, thank you! I'll hopefully be able to knock out this project on Saturday.
  5. I managed to sneak an inspection camera between the flywheel and engine by removing the starter, and the rear main and side-seal joints appear to be dry. Looking more closely at the pan gasket, I realize that I did not correctly apply sealant at the rear of the block covering the joints of the rear main cap. This being said, the pan gasket is brand new, so would there be any issues dropping the pan, sealing the joints, and then re-installing the pan using the same gasket? It's a Fel-Pro gasket with maybe 10 minutes of exposure to the engine running.
  6. I'll see if I can fab up some flat steel reinforcing strips using the old ones as templates. Since the gasket has wept oil, will I need to replace it, or could I try replacing the reinforcing strips and not drop the pan? I'm not certain if oil would continue to leak due to some sort of capillary action.
  7. So I've removed the starter and checked the inside of the bellhousing, and both the bellhousing and rear face of the flywheel are clean and dry. Looking at the pan, it would seem that the leak would have to be gasket-related, since it also weeps oil up to the 3rd bolt running along the passenger side of the engine. The plate between the transmission and engine is dry where the rear main cap meets the shield, so it would seem that the leak is likely either the oil pan gasket or side seals. I've torqued the pan bolts to 7 ft-lbs, is it possible that this isn't enough torque with the reinforcing strips in place? Just looking for advice on how to seal this damn thing, because I've had this drip for as long as I can remember.
  8. I'll check the valve cover tonight and see if that's the issue. The front of the car isn't raised too high, but I imagined that the 5 quarts of oil the manual calls for would be more than enough to send oil to the pan/block surface if the front was raised sufficiently. The block still has the stock galley plugs on both ends, though I haven't thought to check the rear plug for leaks.
  9. Good evening all, I'm fighting an oil pan leak that's been a constant issue with my '75 280z for the past few years. Last weekend I dropped the pan, cleaned the pan and block mating surface, checked the pan for dimples (none found) and re-installed a Fel-Pro gasket. Today I noticed that the passenger side gasket corner near the rear of the block is weeping a very small amount of oil. I'm using the pan reinforcing strips and torqued the bolts to 7 ft-lbs in a star pattern to avoid dimpling the pan, and the only sealant I used was Permatex gasket tack to mount the gasket to the pan, the surface mounting to the block was left dry. Oil pressure is at the normal rating idle/driving, and PCV system components have all been replaced so I don't think the oil system is being over-pressurized. I've always had a small drip from this corner, and previously thought it was a rear main seal. I installed a new Nissan rear main seal about 3 years ago, and the side seals were replaced around 5 years ago when I rebuilt the engine. Does anyone have tips/advice for getting this thing to seal? Right now the front of my car is raised and the gasket will weep oil, so I'm guessing this is strictly a gasket issue. Would side seals or the rear main leak without the engine running? The drip is not a large amount of oil, but I'd like to not have any leakage if possible. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
  10. Good afternoon All, I'm at a loss for what could be causing an issue I currently have with my '75 280z. The car starts fine when cold and idles fine as well, but if I blip the throttle when the engine is cold it'll hesitate and sputter, sometimes with a popping sound. Plugs, wires and cap/rotor is new. The thermotime switch is new, as is the cold start injector and AFM. Cold idle AFRs are between 10~11. Timing is set at 7' BTDC, per the FSM, and vacuum is between 18~19 with a steady needle. The issue completely disappears once the engine starts to warm up. I have also noticed that the engine does not idle up from a cold start, and the auxiliary air regulator and connector are both new and I've verified that it's receiving battery voltage when running, so it should be working fine. Is it possible that my cold AFRs are too rich and causing the issue? I have the AFM adjusted a few teeth from stock to compensate for a full exhaust system and the ethanol we have in our fuel here. Idle AFR when warm is 13-13.5. Any advice will be greatly appreciated! *EDIT* I rechecked my ECU connector and found a bent pin for the throttle switch circuit ( pin #18) that basically meant the car has been running on a part-throttle circuit the entire time, and that the stumble was likely due to not having the full-throttle circuit connected. Sorry for the post!
  11. NC280z

    Oil Pan Swap

    Evening all, I'm looking to replace the oil pan on my '75 280z, due to the previous owner dimpling the pan which now causes a slight weeping leak that the pan reinforcement strips won't correct. Most of the '70-'78 pans I find online are pretty well worn, however, I have found some very nicely reconditioned 280zx pans. Other than the oil pickup tube, would I need anything else to swap to a later ZX style oil pan? I'm guessing that the dipstick may also be in a different location.
  12. That should be a condenser and it is used for noise suppression as you've stated. I'm not certain what the rating is in Farads for the original unit, maybe someone can chime in and help point you to a replacement. Your car should still crank without the condenser connected so if you're having a no-crank issue it may be due to something else dealing with your ignition system. The 70-78 Z cars had a ballast resistor for the ignition coil that needed to be connected for the engine to start, but your 79zx uses a matchbox distributor and should not have any sort of ballast.
  13. So I had a dyslexic moment today, the distributor I received from Rock Auto has the 4 prong e12-93 ignition module, not the 2 prong e12-80. By EFI box do you mean the L-Jetronic ECU? I've kept the L-Jetronic on my '75 Z and it's all stock. I would imagine that the e12-93 module would be the one that needs a specific ECU because my understanding now is that the "I" and "W" connections go to some sort of knock sensor. Am I correct in this? The 2 prong e12-80 module came on the earlier ZXs (79-80/81) which had an ECU similar to the 75-78s.
  14. From what I've read, the matchbox distributor sends a hotter, more consistent spark when compared to the earlier EI system, which is why people will upgrade to the matchbox distributor on their 75-78 Z cars. When I installed the ZX distributor I removed the remote igniter and the ballast resistor (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html). I've tested the MSD blaster coil I'm using and both the primary and secondary resistance readings are within spec. A better description of what's occuring is that it almost sounds/feels like a rev limiter/cutout is occurring with the ZX distributor when the engine reaches operating temps.
  15. The original distributor is EI, and it has two pickup coils. The ignition transistor is remotely mounted in the passenger footwell. The original setup runs fine but I've read that the ZX setup is a worthwhile upgrade
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