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Raising 79 620


Trod8812

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Sorry but this post is going to sound really harsh, but its important.  

 

Crusty old original ground strap held in place with crusty bolts to crusty metal.  Clean everything up and replace the ground cable with new.  

 

You have so many different color wires spliced in everywhere it hard to tell where the problems are coming from.  4 crimps in each alternator wire just within 2' of the engine?  Are your fingers hiding the 4th wire color?   :confused:

Start eliminating those band-aids and fix each one correctly with as few splices as possible - like zero.  One circuit at a time.  Eventually you'll eliminate all the resistance that causes heat and hopefully this will all happen before the harness starts on fire.  I've put out a few car fires in my years.  The ending is never good.  They're always caused by dodgy wiring or plugged catalytic converters which both cause excess heat.  

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since we're on the same topic, can someone tell me what that long dark connector he was holding above the starter is? I read there is a fuse holder somewhere connecting the alt to the battery. I just want to know the what/where/how...thx

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The only resistance in a circuit should be the load... in this case the marker lights.

 

First make sure you have the correct fuse value for it. Another thing is the maximum current  should not be very close to the fuse rating... for example 14.5 amps on a 15 amp fuse. It should be lower than this, like 10 or 12 amps. See if there is some other draw on the same circuit... maybe someone added extra lamps or over wattage bulbs, driving lamps? wired in a stereo to the dash lights  

 

 

If fuse and current values are ok...

Resistance causes heat at the resistance, so if the fuse is getting hot you have some resistance between the fuse and the clips that hold it. Maybe tarnish or oxidation. Could be the heat has softened the tension in the clips and they don't grip the fuse tightly enough. The wires that connect to the fuse clips may be tarnished and causing this.

 

The alternator does not connect to the fuse box, it charges the battery. The battery is connected to the fuse box.

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No the headlights are regular sealed beams, it's the marker light fuse that gets hot when the marker lights are on

 

Also consider disconnecting all the marker lights, turn the circuit back on and connect them back up one at a time and see which ones are causing the problems. 

 

Then you could focus on those.

 

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Its a big heavy wire bolted to the chassis.  Size matters.  You can't use some little 12 gauge wire.  It may overlap the headlight wiring at the same bolt.  Both need to be attached to clean metal with a clean bolt.   Yours looks to have been cut off.  Do not be tempted to crimp an extension onto it.  Solder on additional wire if needed, or run a new one from the battery clamp bolt (preferred) minimum 10 gauge.    

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So is there a difference if I come from the negative of the battery to the body to the frame or is that what you are talking about because on the wiring diagram the black wire that goes to all the grounds of the marker lights, on wire comes from the negative post into those wires then comes back out and goes the the body&earth

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Despite what the factory did, I weld a bolt to the frame and ground the battery, engine, and body all to that one bolt, plus various other locations on the frame, since its a welded structure that carries a ground exceptionally well.  Body panels don't work near as well due to how they are connected - bolts and spot welds.  A big weld holding a bolt to the frame is indisputable.  

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