Alternator.

[Ponyboy Easley]

Recommendations for running a new headunit and two basic speakers in  my 1976 Datsun 620. Im gunna need a bigger alternator. When I power on the radio and play music, my headlights start to dim like they are loosing power. 

 

What size alternator should I use? 75 amps?

 

Obviously I have to use an aftermarket one or one from a newer nissan. Which would fit? Also nothing that cost too much. Im looking sub $150

 

Thanks! You guys are always so helpful! Love this site

[Tucson620]

I've used GM alternators on a couple L-series.  It can get confusing with particular models, regulators plug/wiring differences, clearance for truck steering, etc.

 

But decent writeup here: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/7830-saturn-alternator-how-to-wire-in/page-1

[flatcat19]

Look up IR swap.

 

You will need to source a later alt and bypass your trucks external regulator.

[Draker]

Saturn Alternator or KA alternator should work just fine.

[datzenmike]

The 620 only uses a 35/38 amp alternator because there isn't much room for a physically larger one. They barely clear the top of the idler arm beneath them. If you go to a larger 60 amp from a Datsun car be sure it clears. Mine didn't.

[hobospyder]

i tried to do 60 amp from a 510, didn't work too well because of the tensioner arm bracket on top. 

[datzenmike]

I got the 60 amp from a 720, they're the same as the car and larger diameter. I used a shorter belt, a 280zx lower rad hose return fitting to the timing cover and a 720 alternator to block mount. The mount lifts the alternator, just barely. The rad hose fitting moves the return hose farther to the rear out of the way. I had to put the belt on first and then bolt it in. It worked.... just barely.

 

The idler arm grease fitting is just below the alternator case and much too close. The 720 moved the steering box and the matched idler arm to the outside of the frame and why the 720- could fit a larger alternator. None of the Datsun cars have the steering in the front so it's not a problem for them.

[Dabsun]

I was able to squeeze a Saturn alternator in mine! I used a write up off this site, pretty straight forward!

[Dabsun]

Pic of my Saturn alternator in my 620... It's very close to the idler arm, and close to my coolant hose... But it works!

 

[Hrvat9]

Pic of my Saturn alternator in my 620... It's very close to the idler arm, and close to my coolant hose... But it works!

 

What year/model Saturn did you get the alternator out of ?

[Dabsun]

What year/model Saturn did you get the alternator out of ?

 

It is out of a '95 Saturn.... Not sure of the model... It is the 96amp version.

 

And I used this thread for reference

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/7830-saturn-alternator-how-to-wire-in/

[abbylind]

I used a 77 240SX alt. Kept the external regulator. Pretty much plug n play.

Had to build a new upper bracket out of a Chevy one. Used a 1/2" longer V belt....YMMV

[datzenmike]

Must be the S10 200sx you mean. It had 50/60 amp, was larger and had external regulator.

 

 

Pic of my Saturn alternator in my 620... It's very close to the idler arm, and close to my coolant hose... But it works!

 

The one I did 15? years ago I used a 280z or zx water inlet fitting. It is bent more to the rear and moves the rad hose out of the way. Here is a regular inlet fitting...

 

 

Below you can see they are much more swept back...

 

[flatcat19]

What engine is that to not have a mechanical fuel pump?

[datzenmike]

The three mounting bolts should give it away.

 

It's an L 28 (electric fuel pump)

[flatcat19]

Two too many cylinders. I know nothing about the L6s.

[datzenmike]

me either.

[Dabsun]

Mike it's not the inlet that is the issue.... It's because I'm using a radiator out of a different vehicle... And the frame is bent to shit so I cannot even get a oem radiator to fit.... The hose is close to the fan blade off the alternator. But it doesn't touch

[datzenmike]

That swept back inlet allows the alternator to swing up and away from the rad hose underneath. You may need a shorter belt.

[banzai510(hainz)]

You must be wanting a new motor soon with the lower coolant hose being so close to getting CUT.

 

either cut the hose a little shorter or do ask Mike says. Otherwise that is a motor waiting to go bad.

[abbylind]

Must be the S10 200sx you mean. It had 50/60 amp, was larger and had external regulator.

 

Correct Dr Mike....too fast keyboard fingers

[Dabsun]

You must be wanting a new motor soon with the lower coolant hose being so close to getting CUT.

 

either cut the hose a little shorter or do ask Mike says. Otherwise that is a motor waiting to go bad.

My motor will go bad from my radiator hose bursting? Would it not overheat first? Just instant rip and then shot motor?

 

I think once I fit a oem radiator back onto the truck I'll worry about getting a new inlet. The alternator can't move much closer because I haven't ground down the lower mount for more adjustment... There's not much play, it's not ideal but it works

[datzenmike]

The hose won't explode, it will just get a small leak and run low and then overheat. Some rads have an elbow on the outlet that moves the hose over from the alternator. Shortening the hose that goes directly into the rad will also love it away from those spinning parts.

[Dabsun]

The hose won't explode, it will just get a small leak and run low and then overheat. Some rads have an elbow on the outlet that moves the hose over from the alternator. Shortening the hose that goes directly into the rad will also love it away from those spinning parts.

It is further away then it looks in that photo. But I also check my oil and water everyday! I think this setup will last me another month or so until I get the frame straightened out and fit a oem radiator back in.... If there is more clearance issues then, I'll have to make adjustments !