stupid question / help on the seal!!

[DatsuNissanLove]

So im under my car about to take the carrier bearing and everything connected to it off .. and find out that der is a whole lot of play on the flange or yoke... the damn u joint is super messed up n caused my yokes to rub....now i might have to replace one of the yokes and dont know where to start looking... FUHHDGE!!!..

[Draker]

Just pull the whole thing out. Take it to a driveline shop. Drive home.. wait for the phone to ring. Then return.

[Draker]

Bring your wallet.

[DatsuNissanLove]

Haha ders a machine shop near my house ill see what they can do..

[datzenmike]

Well, it didn't do this overnight and the U joint itself probably was screaming before that. Best check things out when you hear something. On top of that, regular checks of the drive train and running gear. They used to call this preventative maintenance but people now a days don't do this they just replace their cars before things fuck up and second owners just replace the parts when they do fuck up.

[distributorguy]

Look for a driveline shop.  Someone specifically who can build and balance a driveshaft.  Just had mine done for about $240 - all new heavy duty U-joints and 2 yokes where someone hammered the crap out of them in the past.  Parts and labor - welded and balanced.  

[DatsuNissanLove]

Well, it didn't do this overnight and the U joint itself probably was screaming before that. Best check things out when you hear something. On top of that, regular checks of the drive train and running gear. They used to call this preventative maintenance but people now a days don't do this they just replace their cars before things fuck up and second owners just replace the parts when they do fuck up.

yah i messed up.. i remember asking about this along time ago.. and its weird because it never squeeked.. it literally sounded like a roller coaster when i would stop.. example: before you hit that big drop n the ride is making that clicking noise n then suddenly stops but only because ur about to go down n no longer going up... i think u said it might have been my bung hole lol.. or something to do with the tranny.. but ehhhh im just glad its getting fixed..

[DatsuNissanLove]

Look for a driveline shop. Someone specifically who can build and balance a driveshaft. Just had mine done for about $240 - all new heavy duty U-joints and 2 yokes where someone hammered the crap out of them in the past. Parts and labor - welded and balanced.

yah i did some research n found two shops through google that are near me..will check them out today..

[distributorguy]

Awesome!  It "feel" better when its right!!!

[DatsuNissanLove]

Awesome! It "feel" better when its right!!!

So i just got back from showing him the damage and he said he can try to fix it if not he can get a new flange for me which is a huge relief

[distributorguy]

4-7 degrees rotational play is normal.  Lateral play in the bearing is not.  Replacing the pinion bearing means rebuilding the diff, since there is a crush sleeve involved to get the ring/pinion clearances correct. Its one of those jobs you either have the tools (and skills) for or you don't.   A differential oil change is in order for now, and run your oil over a magnet.   Hopefully there isn't too much stuck to it when you're done?

[DatsuNissanLove]

4-7 degrees rotational play is normal. Lateral play in the bearing is not. Replacing the pinion bearing means rebuilding the diff, since there is a crush sleeve involved to get the ring/pinion clearances correct. Its one of those jobs you either have the tools (and skills) for or you don't. A differential oil change is in order for now, and run your oil over a magnet. Hopefully there isn't too much stuck to it when you're done?

so i got under n marked a spot turned it n marked where it stopped.. measured it..and came out to be a light 1/4 inch distance which doesnt seem that bad?or is it..? And no lateral play thank god..

[datzenmike]

The differential drain bung has a magnet in it. The oil is constantly 'cleaned' of debris. It's normal to have a very fine black paste on it. Always clean so you have a record of what was collected since the last oil change.

 

[DatsuNissanLove]

Sounds good will be draining the oil from the diff after my massage in the morning

[hobospyder]

I think it's gl4 for tranny and rear but gl5 only goes in rear diff it doesn't do good with the tranny. Or vice versa can't remember which but I'm pretty sure I have it right

[datzenmike]

GL-4 transmission

GL-5 for differential

 

Do not switch them. Transmission GL-4 oil is not 'strong' enough for the differential. What makes GL-5 suitable for the differential makes it unsuitable for use in a transmission.

 

If it does not say GL-4 it must say suitable for copper alloy or brass (yellow metal)

[DatsuNissanLove]

Cool ..thank you guys..

[Lockleaf]

Many parts store guys will tell you that gl5 can be used in place of gl4.  I know this because I work at one and hear this crap all the time.  Don't let them convince you.  Most auto parts stores don't carry much in the way of gl4 anymore though.  They do carry a manual trans fluid called synchromesh that is yellow metal safe.  This can be used if you can't find gl4. 

[DatsuNissanLove]

Many parts store guys will tell you that gl5 can be used in place of gl4. I know this because I work at one and hear this crap all the time. Don't let them convince you. Most auto parts stores don't carry much in the way of gl4 anymore though. They do carry a manual trans fluid called synchromesh that is yellow metal safe. This can be used if you can't find gl4.

sounds good.. thank you

[Draker]

Napa:

 

[DatsuNissanLove]

Napa:

 

good share draker..!!.. i got the exact same one but the gallon looks different now..no longer see thru..

[datzenmike]

Many parts store guys will tell you that gl5 can be used in place of gl4.  I know this because I work at one and hear this crap all the time.  Don't let them convince you.  Most auto parts stores don't carry much in the way of gl4 anymore though.  They do carry a manual trans fluid called synchromesh that is yellow metal safe.  This can be used if you can't find gl4. 

 

Both oils are an EP extreme pressure rated oil containing anti scuff sulphur additives that bond to the steel to protect the gear surfaces. Differentials are a much different cut of gear that transmits power through a 90 degree corner and need the added protection that GL-5 can provide. Transmission gears are different again and need less protection. GL-5 would be an excellent up grade but for the brass synchronizer rings. The anti scuff additives bond with the surface copper molecules and form a very hard durable surface. The problem is the brass underneath is soft and under any load it flakes off. Like a sheet of glass on a pillow if you step on it. Once the surface is removed the additives bond to the copper under it and then under it and it slowly erodes away over time. GL-5 contains about 6% of these additives, GL-4 about 4%. Two percent difference you say? Well not really, 6 is 50% more than 4. Big difference.

 

I'm currently using the synthetic GM synchromesh oil with good results. It's 'yellow metal safe' fully synthetic, very slippery and very thin. I'm not running multi hundred hp like a Camaro so it should be fine. GL-4 80w90 always was slightly stiff on the first few shifts when cold, even in the summer. Down shifts always required a strong pull down into 2nd and 1st cold or warm. Now shifts are silky smooth and I can actually down shift into first or second around town where before I had to double clutch.

 

If you use a synthetic oil your old rear seal will likely leak or get wet. Synthetic oils are thinner and slipperier and will get past old seals. I just replaced mine and everything is fine. 

[DatsuNissanLove]

Both oils are an EP extreme pressure rated oil containing anti scuff sulphur additives that bond to the steel to protect the gear surfaces. Differentials are a much different cut of gear that transmits power through a 90 degree corner and need the added protection that GL-5 can provide. Transmission gears are different again and need less protection. GL-5 would be an excellent up grade but for the brass synchronizer rings. The anti scuff additives bond with the surface copper molecules and form a very hard durable surface. The problem is the brass underneath is soft and under any load it flakes off. Like a sheet of glass on a pillow if you step on it. Once the surface is removed the additives bond to the copper under it and then under it and it slowly erodes away over time. GL-5 contains about 6% of these additives, GL-4 about 4%. Two percent difference you say? Well not really, 6 is 50% more than 4. Big difference.

 

I'm currently using the synthetic GM synchromesh oil with good results. It's 'yellow metal safe' fully synthetic, very slippery and very thin. I'm not running multi hundred hp like a Camaro so it should be fine. GL-4 80w90 always was slightly stiff on the first few shifts when cold, even in the summer. Down shifts always required a strong pull down into 2nd and 1st cold or warm. Now shifts are silky smooth and I can actually down shift into first or second around town where before I had to double clutch.

 

If you use a synthetic oil your old rear seal will likely leak or get wet. Synthetic oils are thinner and slipperier and will get past old seals. I just replaced mine and everything is fine.

nice!!! Yah i was thinking of going synthetic but after you said that it might leak threw the old seals i have to pass.. not in the mood to do more work on it right now.. im just glad my driveshaft is getting fixed and all fluids are being changed.. could of sworn i heard my truck whisper thank you wen i was under her..

[datzenmike]

While the driveshaft is out, bang a new seal in. You should do this any time it's convenient to do so. They are only $4 and a minute to put in.

[DatsuNissanLove]

While the driveshaft is out, bang a new seal in. You should do this any time it's convenient to do so. They are only $4 and a minute to put in.

really.. will do tomorrow..