L20b timing

[Guest 77ratsun]

Get this...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Q8TV4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1454994933&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=datsun+chain+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=31V0G12PR8L&ref=plSrch

Yeah I've seen that tool before but never actually knew what it did

[Guest 77ratsun]

I did and I didn't... it can't get away but once out the game is over. It adds 4-6 hours of extra work. Well for the backyard mechanic that is. It's one of those things you never want to do twice.

I took everything apart and got it timed In a night but I had to wait for the gaskets

[flatcat19]

Yeah I've seen that tool before but never actually knew what it did

 

Now you know.

 

It's a game-changer.

[flatcat19]

We're rootin for ya, kid.

 

Get after it. You've had TONS of knowledge in here helping you.

 

 

 

You got this.

[Guest 77ratsun]

We're rootin for ya, kid.

 

Get after it. You've had TONS of knowledge in here helping you.

 

 

 

You got this.

Thank you!! I've probably worked on my friends 240 more than he has lol I've worked on plenty of cars

 

I know how to take stuff apart and put it back together like no other its just that i don't know much about timing or distributors

[Guest 77ratsun]

IMG_20160207_224537_zpsh9sys4uf.jpg.html

[Guest 77ratsun]

It didn't work ^^^

[KoHeartsGPA]

Didn't do it right.....go read the photobucket thread :thumbup:

[banzai510(hainz)]

Unfortunatily the rotor does not turn. It stays in the same positon  when the mount is off 180 and the dist cap moves. but not the rotor and thats why it dont start.

[Guest 77ratsun]

The stock EI dizzy works well, but they used 2 types and a few different advance curves. The big thing is to set it up to run 34-36 degrees of total timing, not including the vac advance. You can add a CDI, but its totally not going to change anything unless you run very high rpms all the time.

 

If I ever get back to assembling this thing (tomorrow?) I'll shoot pics of the bushings. Right now they are in round bar stock form. I may bore the housing to take a single solid bushing for better oiling. I never liked the 2 small factory sintered steel bushings.

Do you have a kik or phone number that I could send you pictures on because I can't post pictures on here and I have some pics you might want to see

[Guest 77ratsun]

Unfortunatily the rotor does not turn. It stays in the same positon  when the mount is off 180 and the dist cap moves. but not the rotor and thats why it dont start.

Yeah I'm pretty sure the rotor is spinning

[distributorguy]

Since Mike closed your other post, I'll repost here:

1.  Line up your ignition rotor to the cap terminal that has the #1 plug wire (front cylinder).  

2.  Rotate the engine to about 15 degrees BTDC, so the mark on the crank pulley is CCW from the timing marks when you look at it from the front.  

3.  Remove the #1 spark plug, instll it in the plug wire, ground the plug's electrode to the engine so you will be able to see it spark.  

4.  Turn the ignition key on.  

5.  Loosen the distributor bolts (both) just enough to be able to turn it.

6.  Rotate the distributor CCW 1/4 turn, then CW until the plug fires.  

7.  As soon as it fires, turn off the ignition key, then lock down the clamp.  

 

If timing was your issue, now the engine should start.  Hopefully you didn't lose the cam timing while you were dealing with it being "180 out.)  If you did, you're about to ruin your valves when they hit the pistons.  Have you called to speak with Andy at Bradley restorations???

 

You can also check backlash in the timing chain by rotating the engine CCW at the crank, then watch the rotor and see how many degrees you have to turn the crank before it starts to move.  3-4 degrees is typical.  

[datzenmike]

It's best to keep everything in the same post. then everyone that answers is on the same 'page'. The OP doesn't have to go back and forth updating what was done on the other posts either. Or not. It's also an easily found record of what was done or suggested.

[distributorguy]

I didn't mean that comment to sound offensive.  I get it.  His posting is as scattered as his tuning.  If he follows my instructions, we can at least eliminate timing from being an issue, but NOT rule out the distributor, tune-up parts, fouled plugs, cam timing, carb issues, etc...  Its one small, time consuming step in the right direction.

[Guest 77ratsun]

Since Mike closed your other post, I'll repost here:

1. Line up your ignition rotor to the cap terminal that has the #1 plug wire (front cylinder).

2. Rotate the engine to about 15 degrees BTDC, so the mark on the crank pulley is CCW from the timing marks when you look at it from the front.

3. Remove the #1 spark plug, instll it in the plug wire, ground the plug's electrode to the engine so you will be able to see it spark.

4. Turn the ignition key on.

5. Loosen the distributor bolts (both) just enough to be able to turn it.

6. Rotate the distributor CCW 1/4 turn, then CW until the plug fires.

7. As soon as it fires, turn off the ignition key, then lock down the clamp.

If timing was your issue, now the engine should start. Hopefully you didn't lose the cam timing while you were dealing with it being "180 out.) If you did, you're about to ruin your valves when they hit the pistons. Have you called to speak with Andy at Bradley restorations???

You can also check backlash in the timing chain by rotating the engine CCW at the crank, then watch the rotor and see how many degrees you have to turn the crank before it starts to move. 3-4 degrees is typical.

Once I get to the shop I'll do what you told me to do and no I haven't talked to Andy

[Guest 77ratsun]

Take the air filter top off and look when the engine is warmed up.

 

Is the choke plate closed or partly closed like this...

 

...or open like this...

its closed until it warms up

[datzenmike]

I didn't mean that comment to sound offensive. 

 

No offense whatever. Continue on....

[datzenmike]

its closed until it warms up

 

Then the choke is working properly and by extension the relay and the alternator is charging.

[hobospyder]

Nope I'm a dumb ass ignore me today

[Guest 77ratsun]

This says the everything is extremely close. It won't run if the cam or the ignition timing is very far out. Not re-starting can be many things... maybe even the ignition timing just needs a small adjustment.

 

 

Set the engine to TDC compression stroke on #1. Notch on the pulley on the 0 (zero) on the timing scale near the alternator.

 

Remove the distributor. Here's what you should see when you look down inside....

 

 

Note that there is a small and large half moon. DO YOU HAVE THIS????

The inside of mine looks different

 

I would post pictures on here but I can't seem to figure out how

[datzenmike]

Make sure you are at TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder. Take the valve cover off and look at the number one cylinder valves. The front one, exhaust, should be around 2 o'clock and the second one, intake, at ten o'clock and not pushing on the rocker arms.

 

 

If a camera phone I don't know but others do it. You need a free Photobucket account.

[Guest 77ratsun]

Make sure you are at TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder. Take the valve cover off and look at the number one cylinder valves. The front one, exhaust, should be around 2 o'clock and the second one, intake, at ten o'clock and not pushing on the rocker arms.

 

 

If a camera phone I don't know but others do it. You need a free Photobucket account.

 

I mean that the inside doesn't look the same as yours itd a little but deeper but I can see which side is smaller

 

But the thing inside is sideways not upwards like the one in your picture

[flatcat19]

I mean that the inside doesn't look the same as yours itd a little but deeper but I can see which side is smaller

But the thing inside is sideways not upwards like the one in your picture

 

That means it is off.

 

Remove oil pump and spindle.

There are marks on both to line up.

 

Reinstall. You're there.

[Guest 77ratsun]

That means it is off.

 

Remove oil pump and spindle.

There are marks on both to line up.

 

Reinstall. You're there.

Thank you so much!! I didn't know that there was marks to line it up thats why I haven't taken the oil pumpboff yet and I have to drain the oil to take it off right?

[flatcat19]

Nope.