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Looking to rewire my truck


521_jp_lu

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I know a little about 521 wiring.  How much are you looking at rewiring?  To the best of my knowledge, no universal kit will have the right connectors to match anything on a Datsun.  If you were rewiring a Chevy, there are several universal kits that would have the correct connectors, and would plug in.

 

A Datsun 521 has three main wiring harnesses.  An engine room harness, a cab harness, and a body, or bed (rear) harness.  A lot of wiring problems with 521 trucks, and any pickup for that matter is you also have four main parts of the truck,  The engine, the frame, the cab, and the bed.  All four of these parts need to have a good ground to each other.  The battery grounds to the engine. 

 

Most of the time, a complete rewiring is not needed.  What is wrong with your truck.  What specifically need attention?

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Where are you going to get the OEM connectors?

 

Again, specifically, what is wrong?  Headlights? Tail lights? Turn signals, Brake lights, Reverse lights, Dash lights? 

Does your 521 have side marker lights? 

 

There were two different fuse boxes used on 521 trucks in the USA.  Some had three always hot fuses, others had four always hot fuses.

Here is a lights only wiring diagram for one version of the 521 truck.

LightWires.jpg

 

Here is a full wiring diagram for the 521 truck.

521wires.jpg

 

This is a picture of a marine fuse box I used to replace the stock 521 fuse box.

DragonFuseBlockMounted_zps72pwvxun.jpg

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The picture helps a lot.

Carefully remove everything that is not stock.  If you have any questions on what is stock, ask.

 

If you want to test some electrical stuff, without the engine in the truck, you will have to make a ground connection, because the engine is the normal ground for the battery.  The negative battery cable attached to a bolt close to the fuel pump, on the cylinder head.  There is a pigtail on the engine side of the negative battery cable that goes down to the alternator frame, and is connected there.  On the alternator, there is a second black wire that goes to a voltage regulator bolt, on the inner fender.  I would temporarily connect the negative battery cable there, to test electrical without the engine in place.

 

The fuse box connections on the engine side are like this.  The ignition switch (key) is not fused.   There is a wire from battery positive that goes to the fuse box, on the engine side.  This wire supplies power to the three, or four always hot fuses.  On the same (engine) side of the fuse box, there is a thick white wire, that wire goes to the ignition switch.  Also, on the engine side of the fuse box, are two black wires, with a white strip.  One comes from the ignition switch, and the other goes to ballast resistor, for the ignition coil.  The two black wires, with a white stripe go to the switched fuses, closest to the fender.

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  • 2 weeks later...

With some patience and a dental pick you can separate the female connectors from the factory plugs, pictures are helpful so you can put the new wires in the right spots.

 

Shrink tube is amazing especially the double wall stuff, it usually only comes in thicker gauge but the finished product is weather proof.

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  • 9 months later...

I purchase my electrical items from Vintage connections Good people to deal with.  Mom and pop shop.

 

http://vintageconnections.com/

 

Hear is a better choice than electrical tape from vintage connections.

SilverSleeving-s1.jpg

 

Here is my last order from Vintage Connections.

 

DSC01305_zps0312bfe2.jpg

 

DSC01306_zps88fdba80.jpg

I was looking at the Vintage Connections website this morning and wondering what all I should order. This is super helpful!

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Everything Vintage Connections has is available individually.  The only thing with vintage connections is the only take PayPal for payment.  Like I said small mom & pop company.

 

I would not order anything until you know what you need.  Myself I do a lot of wiring so it is cheaper for me to buy the kits.

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