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Cleaned out the garage....found my old Z


S30Jay

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2 days in a row on this thing.....I feel like I'm getting away with something. 

 

Decided today's objective was to swap out the blown strut for the new one. I confirmed the clunking noise was coming from the strut through a highly scientific testing procedure. Forgot that my dumbass used red loctite on the strut nuts when I installed them 18 years ago :sneaky: ......I'd like to time travel back and slap myself for that. 

 

Strut nut put up an impressive fight but the pipe wrench and swearing ultimately won the cage fight. 

 

 

IMG_20160521_140643932_zpsgruqm5vn.jpg

 

IMG_20160521_140555647_zpspnz01kcx.jpg

 

When I went to install the new strut I realized I ordered one for a later model 260z instead of an earlier one, doesn't fit.  :poop:

 

Painted my gas tank straps instead. Also reordered what I'm hoping will be the right part this time, it won't be installed with any thread locker. 

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Since I last posted I got the right strut this time and big surprise it went in with no trouble. Also cleaned and reinstalled the fuel tank (no sealer naner I'm taking your advice), I did use some evaporust for the small amount of rust that was in there. Hoping I got it cleaned out well enough - hell it should be cleaner than it was when I last ran it anyway. Also finished hooking up any remaining wiring and plumbing, brackets and doodads that were left, which took more trips to the hardware and auto parts store than I expected. Its kind of funny that I still expect things to just go smooth. 

 

To give you a (pictorial) example of how things went on the remaining assembly work, I ran into trouble installing the alternator bracket. I was sure I had it on the right bolt but it just wouldn't fit. I stared at that thing for probably a good 30 minutes before I realized that the lower water inlet had been installed backwards and was angled the wrong way. It blocked the bracket so it couldn't reach the alternator. No problem I thought, just flip the outlet. Well it was installed with gasket sealer on the new gasket so naturally the new gasket came off in two pieces, I didn't have one so out came the gasket paper......you get the idea. 

 

IMG_20160605_180612948_zpspzwrm8hg.jpg

 

IMG_20160605_180553883_zpsfe3oc2lt.jpg

 

Also was unable to find several of the small coolant bypass hoses as it seems they are not being reproduced. I did find a couple good alternatives at advanced and napa though. Just cut out the sections you need and they fit real good. Posting the part numbers for reference.

 

IMG_20160616_211907538_zpsmeokwty7.jpg

 

This ones a Dayco

 

IMG_20160614_204548951_zpsequnzo6p.jpg

 

IMG_20160614_204649316_zps3bbt9lup.jpg

 

IMG_20160614_205220421_zpsah7qbpxr.jpg

 

Also installed the exhaust too. MSA premium from the manifold out......nice kit. Anxious to hear how it sounds!

 

IMG_20160621_210410834_HDR_zps09ydoert.j

 

So that's it. Its ready to fire up. I'm like a kid at Christmas now, my engine builder wants to be here to break it in with me - which I'm all for, but I want to fire it NOW. He said he'll be by one night this week.  :thumbup: Hopefully my willpower will hold out long enough ha ha.

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Nothing is easy. I must have a short somewhere because I get a good spark when I'm hooking up the battery cable, and when I put the test light inline it shines brightly.

 

This is a new problem since I last had it running. And I'm thinking the mice that were living in there may have had a hand in this.

 

Planning to investigate more tonight after my kids go to sleep.....if I've still got the ambition.

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Back to troubleshooting the battery drain. Heres my super high tech process;

 

Started out with the battery positive cable connected, negative cable disconnected. Then connected my test lamp in between the negative cable and the battery post, light was on of course

 

IMG_20160703_214748990_HDR_zpsictsx2bj.j

 

Then proceeded to remove the fuses from the fuse box one by one, checking the light each time (and putting each fuse back when the light didn't go out). That's typically my method for locating the circuit the drain is on. This time none of the fuses had any effect on the light. That told me it had to be on a wire that doesn't go through the fuse box, like the starter circuit or alternator. As mentioned earlier I found my problem at the alternator.

 

IMG_20160703_222712353_zpsel5bvwol.jpg

 

Then for some unknown reason I started poking around under the dashboard and found six exposed wires like these on various circuits

 

IMG_20160703_215816437_HDR_zpstwyjuokq.j

 

WTF?? I don't know, hopefully that was all of them. 

 

On a completely unrelated note, I brought this little sweetheart home last weekend. 

 

IMG_20160701_195909477_zpsjjxytjrm.jpg

 

 

Saw this in the bathroom at work recently 

 

IMG_20160627_111143024_zpsqo4afohf.jpg

 

There really IS a tool for everything.  :rofl:

 

Thanks for looking!

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Aaahhhh I love the sound of a Datsun!!

 

We got her all broke in last night, went surprisingly smooth actually. It was a little stubborn getting the fuel flowing but once it primed she lit right off.

 

Still needs carbs tuned....that's next.

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I completed the initial setting of the carburetors today, then took it out for a ride and covered about 30 miles. Not one problem so far. I'm very happy with how everything turned out, it's amazing how much stronger it is. It really is like a different car, and it starts much easier than it ever did also. 

 

I wound it up to 5k rpms a bunch today, and kept the cruising rpm fluctuating between 2500-4000 or so. No hiccups/backfires at all....nothing. My 2009 Subaru gives me more shit than that on a regular basis. I haven't even put the timing light on it, it runs that well. That's going to happen before I do anymore driving though. Also a bit more tweaking of the carbs as the idle speed increased to 1000 rpm from about 750/800 after the drive. 

 

First gas stop in over ten years

 

IMG_20160710_170431863_zpst5oplym1.jpg

 

IMG_20160710_170440349_zpscg2fmvv1.jpg

 

My only complaint.....and I can't believe I'm going to say this.......its actually too loud. Ten years ago I don't think I'd have cared one bit but it really drones under partial throttle. Annoyingly so actually. Sounds glorious under full throttle though!! Maybe I just need to drive everywhere full throttle??  :thumbup:

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I haven't been online much lately but I plan to catch up on your threads here shortly.

 

I have been driving the Z quite a bit though. I dumped the break in oil after 120 miles, refilled with VR1 and ran it for another 150 miles the day after, and some small trips and what not.

 

I switched the turbo muffler out for a round Walker which improved the sound but hurt performance noticeably. It falls on its face now around 4800rpms. That's not working for me.

 

I have a glass pack coming from Summit that I'm going to try on the mid pipe like a resonator. I'm planning on pairing it with the turbo muffler.... Hopefully I'll get nice tone and good performance. Well eventually I will but hopefully this will be the time!

 

I also advanced the timing to 12 degrees, it seems happier there. It was at 8 initially. Not sure yet if I'll play with that more.... It runs really great how it is.

 

Also get approached by people every trip out who seem to want to talk MGs instead of Datsuns.

 

WTF??

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I also advanced the timing to 12 degrees, it seems happier there. It was at 8 initially. Not sure yet if I'll play with that more.... It runs really great how it is.

 

12-13 is perfect for an L-series. :thumbup:

 

Any more and you need to richen the mixture a bit (or always run 93 octane or higher), and not ever "lug" the engine or it'll detonate. A lot.  B)

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That's great to know. I'll leave it alone then.

 

I am getting some vapor lock going on when it's hot out, I'm planning on fabbing a heat shield to protect the carbs a bit and possibly wrapping the downpipe. It only happens when it's 85 or more out... Which for where I live means there are only two dozen or so days a year I'll even have problems.

 

I also have to come up with a fan shroud of some kind because the temp seems to creep up if I idle too long.

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I have wondered what people that drive MGs or old Fiats get talked to about at gas stations,,,are they inundated with Datsun questions????     Well,,  other than how do you ever keep this thing running long enough to drive it,, questions.

 

 

I haven't been online much lately but I plan to catch up on your threads here shortly.


Also get approached by people every trip out who seem to want to talk MGs instead of Datsuns.

WTF??

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I have wondered what people that drive MGs or old Fiats get talked to about at gas stations,,,are they inundated with Datsun questions???? Well,, other than how do you ever keep this thing running long enough to drive it,, questions.

That's funny. Last trip out a guy told me all about this 79 midget that he has at home that has been in a state of disrepair since it was 5 or 6 years old. Nothing about plans to do anything with it (BBQ grill conversion?) and never asked one question about my Z. I just let him go with his story but I did leave very confused why I was "chosen" to hear the tale.

 

Lucky day for me perhaps??

 

Maybe he mistook my car for an mgbgt??

 

I'll probably never know....

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Left on a ten minute run to the autopart store

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

aaaaaannnddd found myself on an hour drive with a stop by the lake. 

 

IMG_20160905_091209002_HDR_zps8nx7h4rh.j

 

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I did make it to the store though.

 

IMG_20160905_092618064_zpstmfzccam.jpg

 

I would have taken pictures of the other Datsuns that were out that day but......this is Pennsylvania, there weren't any.  :sneaky:

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Not much to report but I do have something. If you've been following this at all you know I painted my exhaust manifold with BBQ grill high heat paint.

 

Don't do this, it doesn't work. It flaked off almost instantly.

 

I will say that the cheap spray paint I used on pretty much everything else is holding up fine though.

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I tried Zynolyte grill paint, let it set for 3 days in in 112 degree sun on my L20B cast iron exhaust manifold that was sand blasted before painting and when I went to install it most of the paint was stuck yo my hands, just flaking off the manifold.

 

http://aervoe.com/paints_coatings/Zynolyte-Hi-Temp-Paint.html

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I switched the turbo muffler out for a round Walker which improved the sound but hurt performance noticeably. It falls on its face now around 4800rpms. That's not working for me.

 

I have a glass pack coming from Summit that I'm going to try on the mid pipe like a resonator. I'm planning on pairing it with the turbo muffler.... Hopefully I'll get nice tone and good performance. Well eventually I will but hopefully this will be the time!

 

 

This is exactly what I did on my 620.  When I got it from Skib it had a Flowmaster and was a bit too loud.  I placed a glass pack between the muffler and the header as you plan to do.... mellowed the tone considerably... didn't notice any power loss...

 

BTW nice Z! 

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I tried Zynolyte grill paint, let it set for 3 days in in 112 degree sun on my L20B cast iron exhaust manifold that was sand blasted before painting and when I went to install it most of the paint was stuck yo my hands, just flaking off the manifold.

 

http://aervoe.com/paints_coatings/Zynolyte-Hi-Temp-Paint.html

I didn't Prebake mine, but it failed really quick. Just the wrong application for that stuff.

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This is exactly what I did on my 620. When I got it from Skib it had a Flowmaster and was a bit too loud. I placed a glass pack between the muffler and the header as you plan to do.... mellowed the tone considerably... didn't notice any power loss...

 

BTW nice Z!

Thanks Ron! I'm glad to hear that worked, that means I might get it right here on the third try!

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