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About opalbeetle

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Manitoba, Canada
  • Cars
    76 710 wagon, 74 710 4 door parts car, 76 FJ40, 89 LandCruiser HJ61VX, '07 Outback, '99 Impreza OBS
  • Interests
    Import Cars and Trucks
  • Occupation
    K-12 Principal

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  1. Oh, how I’d love to get a factory tach.
  2. I added a tach, oil pressure gauge, water temperature gauge and a wideband. I used the drivers side vent for a small tach, use the clock location for the oil pressure gauge and made a small two gauge mount for the top of the center console. I didn't want to cut up the dash or remove the radio which is why I mounted gauges in existing holes. Driving on gravel sure is dusty! The gauge mount for the center console. This is before it's welded and ready to mount. This piece is small but it took a LONG time to make! The shift boot was remade as well, but I have since taken it out as the vinyl was too thick. I just put a flat piece in with a cutout for the shifter that'll need to be tidied up later. Here are the gauges mounted. I also moved the dimmer switch up from the the plastic bracket (seen with the choke knob) to the dash (there was already a plugged hole to mount it in) so I could reuse the plastic bracket for the choke cables and knob. The gear shift needed to have the bottom cut off, rotated and rewelded at a different angle to have it fit so it wouldn't bump into the console. That's all I have for now...more tinkering and sorting will happen through the winter. I'll also take some more pictures of the things that I have missed. It'll be nice to be able to drive it all summer next year! I'll add more as I go along...another project is in the queue for the winter as well...my wife's dream truck. A 1976 FJ40 diesel conversion with an added turbo, power steering, suspension and rust repair (way easier than repairing metal on a 710) are all on the list. Happy Thanksgiving to all you Canadian readers.....
  3. Now for a little interior work. The interior door cards from the '76 wrap right into the window channel and had the felt and rubber seal integral to the card. I'm not sure when they changed the design, but the 1974 parts car I have did not have this. The cards went part way up the door leaving the painted metal and had the window felt and rubber seal on a separate trim piece. I prefer that look so I trimmed the top of my original door card (I sold the 4 door cards many years ago) so that the painted metal on the top of the door was exposed. I used the trim piece with the felt and the rubber seal from the 4 door. The front doors swapped over no problem. The rears did not. I needed to alter the mounting tabs, trim the length of steel and also the rubber to make it fit. It's nothing anyone would notice except me. I wish I'd taken more pictures. This is it installed. The seats are from a RHD Subaru Outback. With the way that the mounting rails are on the seats the drivers seat is mounted on the passenger side in the 710 (there was no real easy way to switch sides) so the passenger in the 710 has the power seat! The driver's seat is all manual! The door lock knobs are also different between the years. The '74 had a two piece piece of plastic that wrapped down the door. The '76 had a plastic piece attached to the vinyl that wrapped over the top of the door. I separated the two piece to mount to the painted part of the door. I don't have to do it that way, but it's the look I wanted. So, I plugged away and made it all work. More interior to come.
  4. Seems like those are called Ram Flow filters now. I don't know if Weiand changed the names or what. I do know that when I Google it, I come up with Weiand Ram Flow filters.
  5. Thanks, Mike. Those were the filters that were on the SUs when I got them. I’ve no idea the history.
  6. I needed/wanted a new rad. I had a local rad shop look at the original and they ended up quoting me an absurd price so I did a little research. I looked at aluminum rads, but with the exchange not being great they were pricey. I found an 620 rad (three row) on RockAuto. I ordered it and confirmed that it is narrower than the 710 rad. So, I used a piece of cardboard to make a template. Each side needed its own as there are different reliefs in the sheet metal on either side of the rad opening. My son then used the cardboard templates to draw them on a CAD program and had them laser cut at the shop he works at. Here they are before I figured out where to drill mounting holes. On the car. In case you wonder why the bolts are so big holding them on...the holes in the rad cradle are that size and I used a bolt big enough to fill the hole. Onto the shroud. The 710 shroud wouldn't fit properly. So, a cardboard template again was made followed by a CAD drawing by my son before he had it laser cut at work. We rolled the aluminum around the opening then he welded it together for me. Mounted. As far as cooling goes...seems to work well. Keeps temps where they are supposed to be. Thanks for checking things out.
  7. I built the exhaust from the factory cast iron header all the way to the muffler. Some pie cuts, a flange, some tacking and it fits and bends around the transmission. The 2 pipes are 1 5/8". The rest is 2 1/4" to the back of the car. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of the "y" that I made to connect to the exhaust. It wasn't the prettiest thing anyhow. Here is the exhaust all pieced together ready for welding. And hanging under the car. It doesn't hang low and passes through the relief I added into the crossmember. It sounds terrific. It's in 3 sections which makes it easier to take out when I need to replace things like a rear main seal (I've already tried this out to know it's true!) So many things to make and it all takes time. Even the smallest fabrication takes more time than I've ever estimated. More to come...
  8. I had to figure out a transmission mount as well. It's a short tail 5 speed from a 720 that I put in. I had some 1x3 rectangular steel in the shop so figured that could work! I reused the bushings in all their cracked glory. Now for some clearance for the exhaust. I used a piece of pipe that was opened up and then sectioned the cross bar to make space for it to fit Turns out that was kinda springy, so I welded a couple of gussets to stiffen it up. Might be overkill, but it fits and it's rigid. There will be a post with exhaust later that kinda shows how the exhaust fits in there! Until next time... .
  9. I have a larger sway bar in the front...I bought an ADDCO bar direct from ADDCO. The sales guy told me it was the last one on the shelf. I've no idea how true that is, but it's on my car now! As you can see here, the new bushings don't match the factory sway bar mount! Not even close! So, I fabbed a set up to fit the bushings properly. I used a shitty 12 ton Princess Auto press, a perfectly sized socket and some trial and error to make the round part of the mount for the bushing. So... Still some work to do to get the mounting tab attached. I did not cut up the old mounts in case I watned to go back to the original bar. And...after welding and finishing the bushing mount...it's done! It actually fits, too. Thanks for looking in!
  10. Hello everyone! I'll share some pictures in the following posts of the numerous small steps on the journey to getting it all drivable....they won't be in chronological order, as I've forgotten what order I completed them all. This was the heater valve that clearly has broken and separated. Thank goodness I have a parts car. I CANNOT stress how important a parts car was for me to get this car back on the road. I was able to replace this piece (no picture sadly) and numerous other nuts, bolts and screws. Not to mention it being a bit of a roadmap to putting things back together (especially after 10 years being apart). It was the best $400 dollars I ever spent. Sold lots and lots of parts from it as well which helped find this project! Replacement part!
  11. I used that exact same rad in my 710. I made some “custom brackets” (cuz it’s narrower than a 710 rad) and cobbled together a lower rad hose from a 620 hose and a 710 hose (cuz the lower outlet does have the 90° turn). That rad works perfectly with the 2.2 litre I run.
  12. Thanks! It only took 10 years... I love the way this thing goes. It runs great! The cam is a little "lumpy", which sounds awesome! I have the 38mm SUs with that cam (I'll include the specs below...). Lots of torque for me to have fun. The cam wakes right up at 3k rpm and pulls hard til over 5k rpm. The SUs run quite rich at idle (not super uncommon I hear) and using a wideband gauge, I can tweak the mixture pretty well to get good A/F numbers for cruising and honking on it. I had read/heard that the 38s might be too small for a 2.2 and 46mm might be better...maybe that's true, but the 38s seem fun to me. I have 42mm Webers sitting on the shelf to try some time, but if the SUs keep putting a smile on my face...why would I change them? I have a KA24De sitting in the corner of the shop...I swapped one into a 510 many years ago and thought the 710 might get one too. I'm kinda enjoying the L series and not sure that I'll ever go the KA route now. I copied the cam specs from another site. I have the actual sheet from the guys who regrind them at home, so I will have to double check to see if these are accurate (though no reason to think they are not). The M445 cam has the following specs;445 Profile: Duration: 280 degrees (30-70-70-30) Overlap: 60 degrees Lift: 0.507” at the valve
  13. I LOVE driving it....I've had a couple of hiccups, but they're sorted until the next ones pop up. As for looking great, "good from far, far from good". It was always the plan to drive the thing, no trailer queens here.
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