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About opalbeetle

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Manitoba, Canada
  • Cars
    76 710 wagon, 74 710 4 door parts car, 76 FJ40, 89 LandCruiser HJ61VX, '07 Outback, '99 Impreza OBS
  • Interests
    Import Cars and Trucks
  • Occupation
    K-12 Principal

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  1. Oh, how I’d love to get a factory tach.
  2. I added a tach, oil pressure gauge, water temperature gauge and a wideband. I used the drivers side vent for a small tach, use the clock location for the oil pressure gauge and made a small two gauge mount for the top of the center console. I didn't want to cut up the dash or remove the radio which is why I mounted gauges in existing holes. Driving on gravel sure is dusty! The gauge mount for the center console. This is before it's welded and ready to mount. This piece is small but it took a LONG time to make! The shift boot was remade as well
  3. Now for a little interior work. The interior door cards from the '76 wrap right into the window channel and had the felt and rubber seal integral to the card. I'm not sure when they changed the design, but the 1974 parts car I have did not have this. The cards went part way up the door leaving the painted metal and had the window felt and rubber seal on a separate trim piece. I prefer that look so I trimmed the top of my original door card (I sold the 4 door cards many years ago) so that the painted metal on the top of the door was exposed. I used the trim piece with the felt an
  4. Seems like those are called Ram Flow filters now. I don't know if Weiand changed the names or what. I do know that when I Google it, I come up with Weiand Ram Flow filters.
  5. Thanks, Mike. Those were the filters that were on the SUs when I got them. I’ve no idea the history.
  6. I needed/wanted a new rad. I had a local rad shop look at the original and they ended up quoting me an absurd price so I did a little research. I looked at aluminum rads, but with the exchange not being great they were pricey. I found an 620 rad (three row) on RockAuto. I ordered it and confirmed that it is narrower than the 710 rad. So, I used a piece of cardboard to make a template. Each side needed its own as there are different reliefs in the sheet metal on either side of the rad opening. My son then used the cardboard templates to draw them on a CAD program and had them laser cut a
  7. I built the exhaust from the factory cast iron header all the way to the muffler. Some pie cuts, a flange, some tacking and it fits and bends around the transmission. The 2 pipes are 1 5/8". The rest is 2 1/4" to the back of the car. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of the "y" that I made to connect to the exhaust. It wasn't the prettiest thing anyhow. Here is the exhaust all pieced together ready for welding. And hanging under the car. It doesn't hang low and passes through the relief I added into the crossmember. It sounds terrific. It's in 3 section
  8. I had to figure out a transmission mount as well. It's a short tail 5 speed from a 720 that I put in. I had some 1x3 rectangular steel in the shop so figured that could work! I reused the bushings in all their cracked glory. Now for some clearance for the exhaust. I used a piece of pipe that was opened up and then sectioned the cross bar to make space for it to fit Turns out that was kinda springy, so I welded a couple of gussets to stiffen it up. Might be overkill, but it fits and it's rigid. There will be a post with ex
  9. I have a larger sway bar in the front...I bought an ADDCO bar direct from ADDCO. The sales guy told me it was the last one on the shelf. I've no idea how true that is, but it's on my car now! As you can see here, the new bushings don't match the factory sway bar mount! Not even close! So, I fabbed a set up to fit the bushings properly. I used a shitty 12 ton Princess Auto press, a perfectly sized socket and some trial and error to make the round part of the mount for the bushing. So... Still some work to do to get the mounting tab attache
  10. Hello everyone! I'll share some pictures in the following posts of the numerous small steps on the journey to getting it all drivable....they won't be in chronological order, as I've forgotten what order I completed them all. This was the heater valve that clearly has broken and separated. Thank goodness I have a parts car. I CANNOT stress how important a parts car was for me to get this car back on the road. I was able to replace this piece (no picture sadly) and numerous other nuts, bolts and screws. Not to mention it being a bit of a roadmap to putting things bac
  11. I used that exact same rad in my 710. I made some “custom brackets” (cuz it’s narrower than a 710 rad) and cobbled together a lower rad hose from a 620 hose and a 710 hose (cuz the lower outlet does have the 90° turn). That rad works perfectly with the 2.2 litre I run.
  12. Thanks! It only took 10 years... I love the way this thing goes. It runs great! The cam is a little "lumpy", which sounds awesome! I have the 38mm SUs with that cam (I'll include the specs below...). Lots of torque for me to have fun. The cam wakes right up at 3k rpm and pulls hard til over 5k rpm. The SUs run quite rich at idle (not super uncommon I hear) and using a wideband gauge, I can tweak the mixture pretty well to get good A/F numbers for cruising and honking on it. I had read/heard that the 38s might be too small for a 2.2 and 46mm might be better...maybe that's tr
  13. I LOVE driving it....I've had a couple of hiccups, but they're sorted until the next ones pop up. As for looking great, "good from far, far from good". It was always the plan to drive the thing, no trailer queens here.
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