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gremlens fucking with me


bonvo

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ok i have an issue the car starts and while its running everything works but with the car off in the ecc possition nothing works stereo nenmory doesnt work blower even tail lights and dash lights headlights work but the others dont again it all works when the car is running though my charge light isnt on and the charging system is obviously working if it wasent nothing would work when it was running any ideas guys?

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Headlights/dash/marker lights, brake lights, horn and the interior light would work without the key. Dude, put a few periods in that long sentence. :lol: I'm pretty sure what you said. The Acc usually only has a radio connected to it. The heater fan is usually only on in the run ignition position.

 

The stereo memory needs a constant 12 volts ON all the time to power it and the clock.

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interesting earlier today it worked. yeah i know the headlights tail lights and dash lights should work no matter what,but out of thouse only the headlights work unless the motor is running. the fan and radio are on the same circut. another thing i noticed is i would hit a bump and my dash lights got brighter for a second then back to normal. im so confused. what im thinking is there is eather a bad connection at the fuse,and when its running and has 14 volts there is enough power to pass threw the bad connection. or a bad igniton switch.

Edited by bonvo
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With my car stripped out, I can only say I remember having to put the key into the ON position for the blower fan to work. The Memory wire should either be hardwired new, or taken from the clock circuit. Other than that, I would suggest a new ignition switch, could be causing a power diversion as the contact grease may have become embedded with brass shaving (from normal use) and causing the ACC position on the switch to become corroded. I would replace it, just to be on the safe. Standard Ignition US120

 

And check the dash ground. On the 610, its on the extreme left side of the dash, below the vent, attached to the inside wall of the car.

Edited by zerow
Grounded
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i know its not a 610, but my 620 has an OLD aftermarket (sony) tape deck in it. i took the memory lead and used one of the hot leads off the fuse box. dont know which as it was just temp till i could find a good lead to attach it to. i am going to rewire the stereo memory to the clock lead soon enough.

 

as for what works in ACC, it SHOULD only be the radio. at least thats how my truck is. some cars run the wipers too, my pathfinder being one of those. also ALL the lights should work unless the headlights are rigged tot he ignition swithc like my VWs. which i dont think they are. now later model 620s i have found are rigged that way.

 

it also sounds like you have a bad ground. i would find ALL the ground points for your dash, take tehm down to bare metal, and reinstall the ground wires. that should help the issue.

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Switch... the switch.

 

Hell borrow one, you must know someone with a spare to try it. If it ... I mean when it, goes away that will be the problem. Check the plastic plug connector for loose/burnt/melted condition.

Edited by datzenmike
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ha i have charged hard into battle and come out victorius against the gremlen stupid gremlen dont fuck with me and my connections at the fusable link again muahahaha

 

This is almost sad... no really.... Get a new ignition switch. Standard Ignition US120...say it with me: U S 1 2 0.

 

Gremlins scurry like cockroaches in the light when Standard Ignition parts are installed.

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lol dont worry bro i plan on getting a new one anyway but the issue was the connection at the fusable link i just replaces was loose so i sqwished the connector together so it was a solid connection the soidered the bitch together :D

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It wouldn't be a bad idea to clean the fuse box and install some new fuses. I was working on a buddies electrical system, well the headlight relay (I hate 510 headlight circuits) I always check the fuses with a multi-meter. They all tested good, one of them looked a little iffy. We installed a new one and the headlights got 50% brighter!!! I've never ran across a fuse acting as a resistor... Anyways new fuses are never a bad idea in such an old car, throw the old ones in the glove box :D

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It wouldn't be a bad idea to clean the fuse box and install some new fuses. I was working on a buddies electrical system, well the headlight relay (I hate 510 headlight circuits) I always check the fuses with a multi-meter. They all tested good, one of them looked a little iffy. We installed a new one and the headlights got 50% brighter!!! I've never ran across a fuse acting as a resistor... Anyways new fuses are never a bad idea in such an old car, throw the old ones in the glove box :D

 

i thought that to the first thing i did when the issue first arose was replace all the fuses in the fuse block after cleaning all connections then i found the blown fuasble link replaced it but for some reason the connecter i used was loose so i tightend it up then desided i didnt want to take any chances and sodered it together if i have to replace it again ill just cut the old one out

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I always check the fuses with a multi-meter. They all tested good, one of them looked a little iffy. We installed a new one and the headlights got 50% brighter!!! I've never ran across a fuse acting as a resistor... Anyways new fuses are never a bad idea in such an old car, throw the old ones in the glove box :D

 

thats the issue w/glass fuses, when the soldered ends start to melt (old, but mostly from bad connections) they dont fully conduct=resistor... & more heat :cursing:

and theyre not something obvious, since there is still continuity :mad:

 

i always replace all of them!

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