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I could not stay away from the datsuns!!


mswit209

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hey Ratsun its been a few years since i have been here. and now it is time for me to rejoin the community. i parted ways with my four door 510 a few years back i had a blast building it, but was ready to move on. i will post pictures of that one to see if anyone recognizes it.  I have recently picked up a 72' 521 that was in need of desperate saving. and although i probably was stiffed on the sale and paid a little more than i should have i am happy to have it regardless. although i am having a few issues that i am hoping to hear some input from the community on. 

 

here is the deal, it does not stay running at first looks it was having a fuel delivery issue truck came with 2 original carbs and a 32/36. all of which were not feeding fuel (sat outside just plain gummed up). purchased a new 32/36 just because i don't have the time to deal with rebuilding anything right now. after bolting it on it immediately turned a new leaf. here is the issue. the dizzy is way out of whack on the alignment for adjustment. i pulled the valve cover to find tdc and checked my wire arrangement. can any one tell me which notch on the crank pulley is tdc since i cant for the life of me remember nor can i find it searching google or here.(since i never assume anyone did anything correctly before me). it will not hold an idle and by the looks of the oil now after the little bit i have ran it looks like i may have a head gasket issue.

 

it also looks like it had a horrible hack wiring job done to it so it could be an issue with how he wired in the electronic dizzy. so if anyone can tell me how these are supposed to be properly converted so i can double check that as well it would be appreciated. i will be doing a leak down test tomorrow as well as a coolant pressure test to see if i can force water into the crankcase. if that's the case the head will be coming off. i will post pictures of the truck tomorrow. 

 

i have huge plans for this thing but it wont be for over a year before i start a long swap process that i have been dreaming about for a while that will take just about every skill i have to complete :devil:

 

anyways it feels good to be back.  :thumbup:  thanks for reading. and any good places to find parts because im serious about the desperate need for saving.

 

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If there is a single arrow pointer bolted to the timing cover then as the crank pulley turns, the last notch on the pulley to line up is TDC. Each notch before TDC is 5 degrees. If you have a saw tooth pointer on the timing cover and a single notch on the pulley then the last point in the clockwise direction is TDC. Make sense?

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If there is a single arrow pointer bolted to the timing cover then as the crank pulley turns, the last notch on the pulley to line up is TDC. Each notch before TDC is 5 degrees. If you have a saw tooth pointer on the timing cover and a single notch on the pulley then the last point in the clockwise direction is TDC. Make sense?

makes perfect sense datzenmike thanks i have the single pointer hence my delemia. most of the saw tooth ones you can scratch though the grime to find the etching....usually anyways. looks like my cam is out of time then. i dont even know if it was put on the proper alignment mark when it was put back together. the guy said he did a head gasket job on it but i call bs unless it has a cracked head. i haven't even had it running longer than a minute at a time and the rad wasn't even filled. so unless it had a lot of condensation in the crankcase it has a bad gasket or cracked head. 

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Truck looks good, I love what you did with it. Is that factory paint, body looks straight. Oh wait there is no pictures I guess it looks like shit then.

 

Just kidding welcome aboard and post some fuckin pictures.

here are your damn pictures<a href="http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/mikeswitzer87/media/20150530_110654_zpscw16xhjj.jpg.html"target="_blank"><img src="http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q578/mikeswitzer87/20150530_110654_zpscw16xhjj.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20150530_110654_zpscw16xhjj.jpg"/></a><a href="http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/mikeswitzer87/media/20150530_110703_zpsjrrm7bjc.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q578/mikeswitzer87/20150530_110703_zpsjrrm7bjc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20150530_110703_zpsjrrm7bjc.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/mikeswitzer87/media/20150530_110717_zps52qh2udj.jpg.html"target="_blank"><img src="http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q578/mikeswitzer87/20150530_110717_zps52qh2udj.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20150530_110717_zps52qh2udj.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/mikeswitzer87/media/20150530_110724_zpscskt6wm0.jpg.html"target="_blank"><img src="http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q578/mikeswitzer87/20150530_110724_zpscskt6wm0.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20150530_110724_zpscskt6wm0.jpg"/></a>

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watch this

https://vimeo.com/19077890

 

L16 as mike said use a pointer but the might be 5 notches

1st left might be -5deg then a bigger notch which is ZERO and the next 4 will be in 5 deg increements.

 

 

watch the vid could be just a loose intake manifold as they can suck water thru the holes on the head.

 

Fill up and run it.

 

takephotos of everything up close before you remove it. Or watch vid 1st. if it runs why do you thing something is OFF!??????????

 

 

the stock carbs did you adjust the idel mixture??????  this will cause it not to run when at idle if off.

 

 

olddatsuns.com

 

 

find TDC then paint the zero mark so you can use it as a reference. then time it to say 10degs with a timming light.

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it is not run

 

watch this

https://vimeo.com/19077890

 

L16 as mike said use a pointer but the might be 5 notches

1st left might be -5deg then a bigger notch which is ZERO and the next 4 will be in 5 deg increements.

 

 

watch the vid could be just a loose intake manifold as they can suck water thru the holes on the head.

 

Fill up and run it.

 

takephotos of everything up close before you remove it. Or watch vid 1st. if it runs why do you thing something is OFF!??????????

 

 

the stock carbs did you adjust the idel mixture??????  this will cause it not to run when at idle if off.

 

 

olddatsuns.com

 

 

find TDC then paint the zero mark so you can use it as a reference. then time it to say 10degs with a timming light.

sorry to be confusing. it does not run properly when it is running. 

heres and update as for what i have done today. found cam off timing from crank. not far but it was off. it was put on the number two alignment and the notch behind the cam and the dash mark did not line up. took the cam gear off put back to the number 1 mark.now everything lines up. pressure tested cooling system while filled with water no leak down from 23psi after about 20 mins so it looks like condensation build up in the crank case as it was sitting for a while, i was told. spark seemed to be a bit weak it was a very dim orange spark when it woul spark.. i bypassed the resistor to check and it was a nice bright white arc. the PO put in a electronic dizzy with a flame thrower coil. and did some real hack wiring on it which infuriates me. not to mention it has a universal ignition switch which also infuriates me. i search for a wiring diagram on how to wire in these electronic conversion dizzys but for nothing but empty hands. if someone could chiming in that would be great. i have a lot of wiring to do which is fine im good at it. ive been browsing the classifieds but im on the hunt for a headlight switch an ignition switch and a throttle cable as it looks like he was attempting to use a pocket bike throttle cable  :angry: .  

 

heres a couple pics of my dime i had.IMG_0630_zpssvfbf8kv.jpg

IMG_0998_zpsgro8r26c.jpg

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nice 510

 

watch the vid FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the cam sprocket can be on 1 2 or 3 really and should run fine. it all in there

 

if this a pertronix conversion with the magnet ring(green tape) and a red blk wire coming out from the little blk box inside then you use the stock coil and the ballastt resisitor.

 

with key ON youll have have 12volt go to the ballast resisitor and out of ballast to the + side coil.

On START you will have  12volts right at the coil. that will get this to run.

To me its most likely OK.

 

Datsun 521s  take the wire coming out of ballast and double lug this wire with the HOTSTART wire right at the +side coil.

 

 

I think Daneil on here has 521 wire photos or look it up

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/50160-datsun-520521-pickup-wiring-snag/

 

 

take photo of the electronic ignition. Could be a Nissan EI type.

 

also you adjust the valves?????????

time the motor with a light?

adjust the mixture?

 

the Zero notch will be the bigger one on a L16 crank pulley. not always the first as a mention on my first post as this will give a bad reading and now you adjusted wrong.

But watch the vid but its EZ to figure out.

 

 

 

On 521s  corrosion that makes the wires not work then the owner bypasses them. I haver had major proplem most were at fuse box area. and fuses breaking off inside but looking good

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nice 510

 

watch the vid FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the cam sprocket can be on 1 2 or 3 really and should run fine. it all in there

 

if this a pertronix conversion with the magnet ring(green tape) and a red blk wire coming out from the little blk box inside then you use the stock coil and the ballastt resisitor.

 

with key ON youll have have 12volt go to the ballast resisitor and out of ballast to the + side coil.

On START you will have  12volts right at the coil. that will get this to run.

To me its most likely OK.

 

Datsun 521s  take the wire coming out of ballast and double lug this wire with the HOTSTART wire right at the +side coil.

 

 

I think Daneil on here has 521 wire photos or look it up

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/50160-datsun-520521-pickup-wiring-snag/

 

 

 

On 521s ir corrosion that makes the wires not work then the owner bypasses them. I haver had major proplem most were at fuse box area. and fuses breaking off inside but looking good

i did watch the video it was informative. but as i had mentioned i found the cam to be a tooth off i just put it back to number one to have everything set for my own peace of mind. now that i have everything lined up for sure it seems to be just very weak spark. i will be getting some spark plugs here soon and bypassing the resistor for testing.  i remember doing a head gasket on my dime and well i never had these issues... then again the person i pthat from took a bit better care of the vehicle.  (still did terrible wiring).

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hopefull its the stock ballast and coil. if for points or a Pertronix.

 

If a Nissan Matchbox them you need EI coil and most times just the 12Volts.(NO ballast)

it no longer has the point dizzy and i just realized it is not petronix it is some other brand of electronic dizzy

 

this is were the distributor has to be to run relativly on its own. im really thinking this is a head issue im going to be doing a leak down right now to see if im getting a cross between cylinders. 20150530_172253_zpsihbv9rds.jpg

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never mind its safe to say i have issues and the engine is coming apart it gurgles out the radiator..(funny i didnt have leak down when i pressurized it.) and on cylinder 4 it is all coming out the crank case. rear cylinders show 60% leak #2 shows 35%

20150530_175047_zpsnstmpufi.jpg

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Pulled the head off shortly after my last reply cylinders 2 and 3 were crossing into eachother right past the coolant passage. With my leak down tester hooked up I was getting constant bubbles coming out of the radiator. Looks like someone did a really shoddy rebuild. I can see water staining on the walls and the cross hatching from honing is way to flat. But it should work. I'm just trying to get it running so I can drive it for a bit before I do my swap.

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looks like a pertronix to me

 

if you watch the vid you can see where the rortor should point at TDC. and with in the timming plate slot movement and the back side underneath has a adjustment also. If still off you gogt to move the oil dist spindel till you get it to point to #1 plug wire or move the wires around till you get it right

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So I'm pretty sure the head gasket being bad was causing my timing issue. Becausevthe rotor pointsbcorrectly at tdc. I order the gasket set and will be putting it back together here in a few days in the meantime I will be pressure checking the head to check for cracks

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head gasket being bad was causing my timing issue???

 

head gasket wont cause a timming issue as its still timmed. thats distributor being off will be the issue if you have to rotate it that far off the timming slot to get running.

 

But if has enough compression to fire off it should still run. just will suck in water or blow exhaust gas in to the coolant system. or seem like a missing cylinder

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head gasket being bad was causing my timing issue???

 

head gasket wont cause a timming issue as its still timmed. thats distributor being off will be the issue if you have to rotate it that far off the timming slot to get running.

 

But if has enough compression to fire off it should still run. just will suck in water or blow exhaust gas in to the coolant system. or seem like a missing cylinder

the reason it was causing the timing issue is because besides blowing gasses into the water jacket it was pushing gases into the cylinder next to it 2-3 so the cylinders were fighting eachother. i have seen this issue before on vehicles. new and old. because the dizzy was aligned and inproper location with everything else lined up.

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