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Snake pit - rhino built


Rhino13

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I've been busy with friends visiting, so today I'm going to check out the truck again. I've been thinking and reading and I think the timing is off. I had to plug it at the distributor because the Weber I got has the advance plugged, so I think it needs to be retimed.

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I failed to take pictures, but I put a new pump on it and it's running now. The carb is toast though so it's barely able to idle and I have to feather it up to higher rpms, going to have to wait a bit to get a new one but it'll do the job for now.

 

After that Jester and I swapped gears, so I went from 3.73s to 4.11s. There's a pretty good difference in taking off, if I drop the clutch it squeaks the tires, but it's still running pretty shitty so I'll have to post an update once it's running good again. I think Jester got a picture, if anyone else did put them up!

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The new 4.11 rear end is feeling really good, first pretty much gets you rolling then drop second and it gets up much quicker. The only problem now is my carb, Denmarkboy and Jester helped me get it going, but the carb has vacuum leaks, way too much play in the shafts, and is really tired. I'm getting another Weber on trade within the next few days, so hopefully it'll be even more fun once it's got the advance hooked up and I'm actually able to tune it without having to run ridiculously rich. It's definitely not running happy with the Weber it's got, so that rebuild kit will come out and the carb will go in storage as parts.

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Did you put a rebuild kit into that old weber?

I put a kit in the first one, but this one I just got from Al today was older so the gaskets aren't the same. I used all the o rings, float needle and the cup it sits in, all the little vacuum pieces, and the newer adapter. This newer to me one is quite a bit smaller, but says 32/36 on the side. Any insight on this is much appreciated, we took it off a z22 that evidently ripped, but after driving with it, it's pretty gutless. The truck runs awesome now so I'm not too worried about it at the moment.

 

One on the right is the one I got today, looks about half the size.

IMG_20150721_163715361_zpsrqlb2zj3.jpg

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Center you swap the jets to the new carb?

 

Could I bum the acceleration pump gasket from the old carb? It's the diaphragm with 4 bolts on the side of the carb.

I'm sure I could, but would the fact that the choke butterflies are smaller matter? Obviously the throttle butterflies are the same size, it just seems more restricted. I've got two extras so I'll give you the nicer of them. I might go see Al for a bit tomorrow, if so I'll bring it with and leave it there for you.

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If you are running the DF carb watch you engine temp if you are running to lean your engine temp will increase.  You are correct DF is much more restricted meaning less air flow and smaller jets to accommodate less air flow.  The DF series works good on 1200 & 1300 cc engines.

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Yeah I knew it had to be smaller, it's so gutless. Thanks for the info Charlie, I'll stash that one away and maybe one day I'll get something with an A or J motor.

 

I decided to see if I could improve upon the other Weber and I found that the shafts have about the same play on both carbs, which is very minimal, and the DFEV on there now makes it run great. So I decided I'd pull out the rtv where it was "plugging" holes, and my old AB valve happened to have the exact size press in fitting I needed for the vacuum advance port that had been blocked off. I also threw the choke back on without the butterfly's or linkage so that vacuum port was hooked up to something. I also removed o rings that I mistakingly put in between the jet and top screw, one of them was squeezed so much it was blocking off 3/4 of the jet... I'm going to put the pieces I took out back in this one with the advance and choke hooked up and the jets cleaned. I repositioned the throttle linkage and tightened it down more so now the throttle stop screw actually moves it, and there's no play in the linkage. I've got hope that it'll run great!

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Decided to try the new carb again before switching it and very gutless and leaked a little gas out of the throttle shafts and the idle got all funky.

I put the new one on and it started right up and idled a little high but I got it fixed right up since the throttle stop works now. It's a little rough still but it's not perfect so it'll work. I drove it and now this one seems gutless also! It also diesels when turning off which has never happened. This carb is definitely better, but I definitely need to just buy one new when I can afford it, I'm done with trying to fix worn out ones that will have leaks no matter what you do.

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Old carbs suck... Usually they are sitting on a shelf or parts bin for a reason. As much as I hate to admit it.. it's true.

 

Let me know if you got that gasket\diaphragm. I pulled mine out and confirmed it's defective. It had just over 400 miles on it... 

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Got a Weber 38 in the works, some say it's too much for the z24 but I've seen one in person and know that Hobo runs one on his l20b. The one I've seen in person had a header with a little bigger exhaust but it ran really well and didn't fall on its face at any point even from a low rpm. I'll post up about performance when it's installed and tuned up.

 

Im also getting a ka-e within the next few months and would like to carb it, so I think the 38 will be a good choice for that motor. I think he goes by Wide, with a yellow 620 and ka-e with a Weber 38, at Canby he said all he would change is getting bigger jets.

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I ended up getting a 32/36 which I'm happy about for this motor, and it'll be a few months until I get a ka so maybe this will make me want to keep the efi like I had originally planned. I'll post up the install in the morning when I've got light.

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I got the carb on and its running great now! I haven't run it in a while due to the carb situation, and it always had a rattle toward the front of the motor when idling, but it seems to have gotten a bit louder. It's not a valve noise, more of a clanking, is there possibly a little slack in the chain from the tensioner being worn out? I've thought about getting a timing set to see if it would help, but if the tensioner is loose would it do any damage elsewhere? It doesn't affect performance from what I can tell, but I'd like to get rid of the sound.

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