wayno Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 Would epoxy work to mount the visor? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 It would most likely work. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Wayno some of the shops are using 3M double sided tape to mount the sun visors on late model trucks that the metal is too thin to hold screws. I have pulled some of the visors in junk yards in the past and they were just sheet metal screwed in. 3 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2018 Well last week I went out to my dd and charged the battery, been sitting since before I had knee surgery. It fired rite up. Put it in gear stepped on the brake, my drive way has a good slope to it, the brake pedal hit the floor. Got out and checked the fluid and master was empty. Had this problem before and it was a slow leak past the rear seal that leaked brake fluid into the front of the booster. In the past all I had to do was fill the master cylinder and pump the brake pedal a few times and recheck fluid level and drive, no prooblem. This time however I filled the master got in and pumped the brakes and the pedal did not come up, the rear seal was gone. Had Tom take me to the VW junk yard where I have my 67 520 and my 85 720 ST are stored and pulled the new master cylinder off the 85. Brought it home, put in, and topped off the fluid then I had brakes. I need to have the lines flushed but I need to do the rear brakes first. I will not drive it until i get the rear brakes done and get the system fushed. I can drive a clutched vehicle again. I could have driven sooner but did not want to until my surgeon gave me the OK. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Shawn Is coming over tomorrow to do my rear brakes. 1 Quote Link to comment
720inOlyWa Posted February 26, 2018 Report Share Posted February 26, 2018 Send him over here when he is done, Charlie. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Thursday I installed the power steering gear box from my 85 king cab ST as this trucks box blew the pitman arm shaft seal. My brother Garret and I Installed lower control arm bushings and new strut rod bushings yesterday on my 86 king cab. Today we will install new tie rods, center link, sway bar bushings, and idler arm. On Monday I will have new bushings pressed into a spare set of upper control arms and install them on my truck. then I will have the alignment done. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 My brother and I finished the front end. All I need to do is have the upper control arm bushings pressed in tomorow and install the upper control arms. Take the truck to Jack"s Alignment for front end alignment and the front end will be done! 1 Quote Link to comment
Antihero983 Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Well last week I went out to my dd and charged the battery, been sitting since before I had knee surgery. It fired rite up. Put it in gear stepped on the brake, my drive way has a good slope to it, the brake pedal hit the floor. Got out and checked the fluid and master was empty. Had this problem before and it was a slow leak past the rear seal that leaked brake fluid into the front of the booster. In the past all I had to do was fill the master cylinder and pump the brake pedal a few times and recheck fluid level and drive, no prooblem. This time however I filled the master got in and pumped the brakes and the pedal did not come up, the rear seal was gone. Had Tom take me to the VW junk yard where I have my 67 520 and my 85 720 ST are stored and pulled the new master cylinder off the 85. Brought it home, put in, and topped off the fluid then I had brakes. I need to have the lines flushed but I need to do the rear brakes first. I will not drive it until i get the rear brakes done and get the system fushed. I can drive a clutched vehicle again. I could have driven sooner but did not want to until my surgeon gave me the OK. When I had my left knee done back in 2010, my PT was PISSED when I showed up in my Beetle to one of my therapy sessions. Haha. Luckily beetle clutch pedals are softer than baby shit, so it didn't cause an issue. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 Upper control arm bushings are in just need to install on the 86 King Cab and have the alignment done. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 All My pictures in this thread fixed again. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2018 Going to be getting an automtic for this truck soon, so no more pulling stumps and tearing up bumpers. At the time I will swap harness to the automatic I will adapt the power door wiring to the automatic harness so I will have another color dors on this either orange or blue or maybe 1 of each. I will use the best doors I have no matter what color. I am going to enjoy having an automatic. Much easier to drive disabled! LOL 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 One step closer to having ST power windows and door locks on my Daily Driver! LOL I will reupholster these in black with a red and black plaid or striped. Thank you Madkaw Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Looking good Sir! 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 They are in good shape wish I had blue interior. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 Thank you Captain 720. I also pickuped up a front carpet from the junk yard that is in surprisingly good shape. This will be installed after I buy some sound deadning and heat barrier mat and cartpet pad. I scrapped off all the ol pad that was glued to back of the carpet. I will scrape all the old pad off the floor of the truck when I pull the old carpet. Pictures soon. Quote Link to comment
Madkaw Posted July 7, 2018 Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 I wish the ones for my truck were this nice! My backers are solid so I think I will put fresh vinyl on and call it good. Debating whether to do speaker holes since I’m doing new vinyl 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Good way to ruin a door in my opinion cut holes for speakers. Quote Link to comment
SUPER_YOCOM Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Charlie I just read the last few post.Lol Im that guy who ruins his doors--But I just dont throw junk in them ..Because im really big into car audio ive learn some things about deadner.Pretty much all your doing is adding weight.The stuff at home depot isnt going to work long term--stay away from tar based products.Dynomat is a great deadner but a person is mostly paying for the name.Buy thicker sheets--not in rolls. Its like painting with cheap house paint= more coats=more paint/money.Alot more work and no savings. Sorry if you already knew all this.It might help some one who first timer. Yocom P.S The engine area im not so sure about. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 The roll on roofing ads mass and damping. On top of this it's available, easy to work with and free. I did the entire interior and weight isn't a factor. Dynomat is likely the same thing but foil covered. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2018 Good info SUPER-YOCOM! What do you recommend? Quote Link to comment
SUPER_YOCOM Posted July 14, 2018 Report Share Posted July 14, 2018 (edited) Charlie The heat barrier is something i have never needed so im new to that also---I will look into it.Mabye I can add some help. For normal deadener I live in Cali your in Az and it gets hot is reason for non tar/asphalt based stuff.Its been tested and tried dont seem work out in hot climates. Your looking for butyl Something in 80 mil should be ok for you.And im going to back out on saying dont buy rolled up deadener--Id just like sheet lol.Also dont forget you will need a roller. Look at the rolls of GT mat--they ship fast and priced right. Yocom https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=sound+deadener+80+mil&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=sound+deadener+80+mil&LH_TitleDesc=0 Edited July 14, 2018 by SUPER_YOCOM proof reading Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2018 Thank you for the information. I am curious as to why speaker have to be put into doors. Why not in the kick panels or behins the seat? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 14, 2018 Report Share Posted July 14, 2018 Door? Larger enclosure, better location and out of the way, protected. I don't use doors, or haven't yet because they ruin the looks of the car they are in. If I did, I would flush mount and cover with a grill cloth panel, something black or matching the door card rather than an ugly and obvious speaker grill. 1 Quote Link to comment
SUPER_YOCOM Posted July 15, 2018 Report Share Posted July 15, 2018 Let me start of with if we where to all the same it would be a very boring place. Mike is right about doors larger and protected.Things can get very ugly looking if done wrong. Because of my car audio wants and being in a 720--thin door. I have to use door pods to fit the depth of the 6.5 midbass speaker.I have this set in my truck.My highs speakers.http://precisionpower.com/product/p-65c3/ I plan on later moving the two smaller speakers in custom kicks and make new smaller pods for the midbass for the doors.New upholstery Yocom Quote Link to comment
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