Big_E-Dog Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 stray from the sr crowd come to the vg darkside lol Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Not that much difference in VG power (stock that is) but wilthincreased displacement comes.. wait for it..... increased torque. Gobs of torque, lovely spine snapping torque. This is what plants you in your seat and pulls your lips back in a smile. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 de T for the fix. Spool it up to 3,500 rpm and I'll show you a smile. What sets the VG apart from the SR is it's sound. absolutely orgasmic. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 If I didn't already have a ka, I would go VG......mmmmmmmm.....torque...... Quote Link to comment
Bumblebee510 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Ok so here she is. For now I'm going to go with an L20. I want to go vg33 but that won't be for awhile. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Solid choice! It can be done in a weekend even with a couple hangups. And you can keep your carbs. You can play with the 20 a bit to get some extra performance, and you might think about those things before you drop it in there. Though there is something to be said for installing a known running engine so there is less risk when turning that key for the first time. Quote Link to comment
Bumblebee510 Posted August 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Solid choice! It can be done in a weekend even with a couple hangups. And you can keep your carbs. You can play with the 20 a bit to get some extra performance, and you might think about those things before you drop it in there. Though there is something to be said for installing a known running engine so there is less risk when turning that key for the first time. I should be getting one in a couple weeks. I know the block height diffrence and that you have to run the L16 oil pan and pick up but other than that I know it's just a drop in that can be done in two days. Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Yea dude drop a l20b for now, it'll be plenty with those carbs Quote Link to comment
Bumblebee510 Posted August 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Yea dude drop a l20b for now, it'll be plenty with those carbs Hopefully because the L16 that is in my car now is really tired. Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Hopefully because the L16 that is in my car now is really tired. Yea it'll be good so you can stack cash for a future swap and other fun stuff, I had an l20b in my old dime with a 4spd and I had fun with it. was stock and had no side drafts at the time but I enjoyed it. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 FANTASTIC! Well I submit, you are legit. Great graphics and now the whole Bee thing is coming into perspective. Good choice on the swap path too. Once you get started though it's like Ruffles potato chips; you can't eat just one. Fortunately aside from being easy, there's a lot of bang for the buck with the L20. Most of it's power gains come from upgrades to the head and exhaust. with mild porting, a stage 1 cam, and a descent header that thing will wake right the hell up. Quote Link to comment
Bumblebee510 Posted August 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 FANTASTIC! Well I submit, you are legit. Great graphics and now the whole Bee thing is coming into perspective. Good choice on the swap path too. Once you get started though it's like Ruffles potato chips; you can't eat just one. Fortunately aside from being easy, there's a lot of bang for the buck with the L20. Most of it's power gains come from upgrades to the head and exhaust. with mild porting, a stage 1 cam, and a descent header that thing will wake right the hell up. Thank you. I was going for a mild port and cam in it with a new exhaust system because the one that is in it got put in very crappy and just about every weld leaks. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 That suck man, because it steels the best part of the L16, it's funky little buzz at about 6K rpm. BTW feel free to use this image as your avatar. Just resize it and edit your profile. Welcome to the hive Quote Link to comment
Bumblebee510 Posted August 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 That suck man, because it steels the best part of the L16, it's funky little buzz at about 6K rpm. BTW feel free to use this image as your avatar. Just resize it and edit your profile. Welcome to the hive Ya once I got it on my lift I noticed everything wrong with the system. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 One thing you may want to consider is anticipating your next swap and building as much of the exhaust system so it can be used a second time. 3" stainless is the way to go weather its an SR, VG (with a single collector), KA, and even a ratted out L20. That will require opening the rear cross member, but it's short work with a plasma cutter and welder. Once you get started yo umay want to start a build thread. Post up your progress and you'll get all the input you could want and even some you don't want. If you do that post a link here so we can follow. Best of luck. Paradime. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 I think I would buy a garage for it Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 This is a good build thread already. 3" exhaust on an L20B? That's a tad above what I would do, but I'm not an expert. I'd also look into the stock cast manifold as a good, cheap, long lasting alternative. Whatever you do, it'll be much easier now that you have chosen the well paved road of the L20b. I'm liking the car too. Auto? Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 3" exhaust on an L20B? That's a tad above what I would do, but I'm not an expert. I'd also look into the stock cast manifold as a good, cheap, long lasting alternative. Admittedly 3" is a little overkill, but with a mild port and cam the easier it breaths the better. Besides, Why do the exhaust twice when he swaps in the SR I'm about to talk him into :devil: Indoctrination sequence starts here Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 I think I would buy a garage for it That's so realm... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 I imagine the stock 510 exhaust pipe is 1 3/4"? Going to a 3" pipe increases the cross sectional area by 2.9 times!! Or it can flow 2.9 L16s at 6,000 rpms. As long at the flow is not restrictive run the smallest pipe you can. This will keep the exhaust gas moving as fast as possible. If planning an SR20ET find out what diameter pipe they run. If 2.5" run that if 3" run that, but 3" seems much. Quote Link to comment
Bumblebee510 Posted August 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 I'm going to stay away from the SR. VG seems more fun. 1 Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 VG is a good motor. We've done 2 swaps on our 510's, and will be doing a third. Also built a VG34E for one of the cars. Wouldn't invest so much time and effort if it was a poor platform. I don't think anyone has ever been sad that they put a VG in their 510. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 I imagine the stock 510 exhaust pipe is 1 3/4"? Going to a 3" pipe increases the cross sectional area by 2.9 times!! Or it can flow 2.9 L16s at 6,000 rpms. As long at the flow is not restrictive run the smallest pipe you can. This will keep the exhaust gas moving as fast as possible. If planning an SR20ET find out what diameter pipe they run. If 2.5" run that if 3" run that, but 3" seems much. Actually Mike, a turbo charged motor's exhaust is not a constant like the displacement of a N/A motor. depending on the boost it could triple the exhaust flow. Once the exhaust leaves the turbine however, it requires no back pressure what so ever. it's all about getting it the F out. The exhaust pipe serves no other purpose than sound deadening. Run 3 ft. of restrictor pipe aft of the header and you have what you need, Find out whether the VG guys are running the exhaust into a single collector. If so I'll bet 3" pipe is what they use through the cross member. More importantly find out how they get that beautiful exhaust note and do that. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 They way it was put to my by my exhaust guy is with an N/A motor you can push 400hp out of 2.5" pipe, you haveore than that you need bigger, other than that its a waste of money to go any bigger Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 That might be true in T-town after say 9.35 beers, but... http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator5.php Maybe he was talking about duel exhaust on a V8? Quote Link to comment
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