Motor swap 510

[datzenmike]

Mike's law: For every expert there is an equal and opposite expert.

 

Size your pipe in proportion to what you are running for an engine. Too big is as bad as too small. Doubling the diameter increases the flow by 4 times not 2 so a small increase makes a big change.

[q-tip]

That might be true in T-town after say 9.35 beers, but...

 

Maybe he was talking about duel exhaust on a V8?

 

That is entirely possible, but it still proves the point that if the engine is n/a 3" exhaust isnt needed until you reach some pretty big HP numbers or really big ones for a 4 cylinder

[TENDRIL]

great looking car! 

 

L20b should be enough, and my advice on a bigger swap, would be collect every piece, part, and info needed so you do not end up with a torn apart 510, waiting and looking for parts and info , and wondering what to do to kill time

[Rollover_Red]

ok, because im a young guy, i constantly have to give some perspective on newbies.

 

feel the car out before you decide to change anything. i asked some of the same questions when i first bought my 510. you have a nice setup in that car already. enjoy it. you guys are soo quick to want more power when you need to ask yourself what kind of application you are setting the car up for. 

 

a lot of people mention something about "tracking" the car when they dont even have a single minute under their helmet, let alone even own a helmet. 

 

im young and graffitid my 510 to piss everyone off, but in the end, i also did a full engine bay restoration and built a LZ22 to keep the car nostalgic. 

 

biggest advice, DRIVE THE CAR. keep up the maintenance for a while and decide from there if you even want to dump motor swap money into it.

 

but thats just my opinion. 

[paradime]

SO what are we talking about here? Are you saying he can't use a large portion of his exhaust for both applications?

 

In all reality calculating the flow of one diameter pipe vs. another is not as simply as using a logarithmic factor of 1.5 X , or "Doubling the diameter increases the flow by 4 times". If we are really splitting hairs here, the logarithmic factor for doubling the aria of pi is 1.4 X. But there are other factors beyond basic geometry, displacement and hp to consider, such as exhaust gas cooling rate ie. contraction, flow disturbance at bends, welds, pipe deformation, etc. With in the realm of realism though, we are not building F1 race engines here. And with that in mind I firmly believe he can strike middle ground and save a shit load of time and money by reusing as much of his new exhaust system as he can. That being said, if he's looking to make the same 160 hp with his VG as he will with his L20 than maybe he should stick with 2" pipe.

 

My advice, listen to TENDRIL and Rollover, they seem to know what they're talking about. Actually really good advice these guys are offering there.

[q-tip]

My advice, listen to TENDRIL and Rollover, they seem to know what they're talking about. Actually really good advice these guys are offering there.

Exactly, don't mind us idiots arguing in the peanut gallery

[banzai510(hainz)]

biggest advice, DRIVE THE CAR. keep up the maintenance for a while and decide from there if you even want to dump motor swap money into it.

 

but thats just my opinion.

 

  good advice

unless you got 3k of extra money lying around to build this VG motor stick with a L series as they cheap

 

2in mufflers are common. grass roots motorsport did a test and found the cheap walker type turbo muffler produced the best power as it had back pressure. some of the noisemakes it was less but sounded FASTER

 

 

So realm???????

You got to move up some day. What they say in Hawaii? Oh he High Makamaka now

[tr8er]

biggest advice, DRIVE THE CAR. keep up the maintenance for a while and decide from there if you even want to dump motor swap money into it.

 

but thats just my opinion.

 

good advice

unless you got 3k of extra money lying around to build this VG motor stick with a L series as they cheap

 

2in mufflers are common. grass roots motorsport did a test and found the cheap walker type turbo muffler produced the best power as it had back pressure. some of the noisemakes it was less but sounded FASTER

 

 

So realm???????

You got to move up some day. What they say in Hawaii? Oh he High Makamaka now

 

Ha!! Yup. But we all get garage. I mean tarp.

[DISLEXICDIME]

I would do tires brakes lsd coil overs then worries about a swap

[Bumblebee510]

A vg swap won't be for a long time but I'm going to do an L20 soon. The car is some what stock besides the ground control coil overs and disk brakes up front. It also has a dog leg 5 speed which I love.

[paradime]

That's a VERY fine starting point you have there. little at a time man. Have you spotted any rust?  If so, that would be job One for me.

[Rollover_Red]

Exactly, don't mind us idiots arguing in the peanut gallery

its because we are special ;) 

 

also, i was young and dumb once(still pretty much am) but i can bring some peer insight onto the subject and hopefully keep another dime on the road since i dont really do much of a good job myself. haha

[TENDRIL]

i look at 15 different 510s every day, in the yard. and the ones drive are l series 

 

 

:geek:

 

and on the bayline fun run, my l20b dual side drafts, and dogleg, kept up with the best of them 2 ka swaps, turbo sr, super charged b13,

 

i love the sound and feeling of my L 

 

i will be doing a KA swap but im getting everything! needed so i can do it in one weekend 

 

 

blah blah datsun

[Bumblebee510]

That's a VERY fine starting point you have there. little at a time man. Have you spotted any rust? If so, that would be job One for me.

Two little holes on the driver side floor. That's the only rust that I have found on the car.

[datzenmike]

Only some early 510s had drum brakes all round, otherwise they all came with disc brakes stock. Pretty cool for early '70s but dated and 40+ year old technology today. 280zx struts and brakes would qualify as not being stock and worth it.

[Bumblebee510]

Only some early 510s had drum brakes all round, otherwise they all came with disc brakes stock. Pretty cool for early '70s but dated and 40+ year old technology today. 280zx struts and brakes would qualify as not being stock and worth it.

I know there not stock calipers. I can't remember which ones they are.

[freetheoranges]

Hey Bee! Sweet dime. Did you do the paint job while it was in your possession?

[Bumblebee510]

Hey Bee! Sweet dime. Did you do the paint job while it was in your possession?

No I got the car with the paint job on it. And thank you

[Bumblebee510]

So I got an update on my car. I was having issues with the bogging once it got to 4,000 rpms and I thought is was carb problems so I went and went through everything and checked the carbs out but couldn't find anything wrong, so I put it back together and it still bogged. I desided to check the spark plugs and I got to number 2 and it was all black and none of the others were. I did a compression check and found out number 2s compression was 60 and the rest were where they were suppose to be. Guess rings....

[paradime]

Doubt the bogging is from the problem with #2 cylinder. More likely a distributor cap, points, or vacuum advance issue. Low compression could just as easily be an issue with the valves. Take it to a shop and get a leak down test done. With tha,t you'll know for sure what's causing it and you can plan accordingly for repairs. 

[datzenmike]

So I got an update on my car. I was having issues with the bogging once it got to 4,000 rpms and I thought is was carb problems so I went and went through everything and checked the carbs out but couldn't find anything wrong, so I put it back together and it still bogged. I desided to check the spark plugs and I got to number 2 and it was all black and none of the others were. I did a compression check and found out number 2s compression was 60 and the rest were where they were suppose to be. Guess rings....

 

 

Check the valve lash first. A tight valve won't close fully and leak pressure. Clean plug.

[Bumblebee510]

It's not really bogging it's more along the line of being hesitant when I get high in the rpms. I did a valve adjustment about a week and a half ago and it was perfectly fine after that. The problem didn't start tell Monday and I've been trying to figure it out since then.

[banzai510(hainz)]

you have timming light? adjust to say 12-15deg on those.

ck the carbs where the jets are. On top unscrew the cover and make sure the jets are tight. soemtimes thay back out. the brass things will have a slot and use a big flat blade screw driver.

This would happen on my Mikuni 40mm set all the time.

 

not too hard as it is a cheap pop metal casting.

 

asl make sure your chokes isnt commingor getting stuck on.

 

if 1 cylinder is 60 then ck the valve lash setting. otherwise its bad rings. valve piston or soemthing in that nature.

 

 

soemtimes a non sync carb will ack like this abit.(this is just a hail mary from me).

feel the coil if its HOT. Hopefully not.

[RTB]

You could always do a l20 frankenbuild. Depending on your budget you can make a pretty bitching l20.

[Bumblebee510]

You could always do a l20 frankenbuild. Depending on your budget you can make a pretty bitching l20.

I am going to do a l20 really soon. Should be getting the motor this week and start working on it. So maybe about a month it will be in the car.