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Hunterdane

1981 Ka 210 build

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Oops. That what I meant to imply. 200sx gone. Can't wait to see pics and watch your build thread. Loved the berleigh???? Build like this

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Location says Camas Wa it's East of Vangoober  on the Columbia

i couldn't see that on my phone but thanks

 

That car is long gone. They were hubcaps

oh, damn. oh well

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I don't have any new pictures, but i finally started working on it again. The motor mounts are done

 

Dumb question: Why didn't you just swap in the 200SX crossmember? Would've made mounts much easier? 

 

I dig this project, though.   :thumbup:

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I am getting close to wrenching on the Datsun again. I moved into a fixer upper house in April, needless to say that's been my project for several months.

 

Going into winter I am buttoning up the house projects and hoping to finish the Datsun.

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so i finished up all of the odds and ends today. Got it to turn over, All of my wiring is correct, its getting fuel and spark. it popped a few times, not running yet though. 

 

 

probably going to replace the plugs and cap and rotor and give it another shot tomorrow. hopefully it fires up.

 

 

driveshaft will be done on thursday, then i just need to finish mounting the surge tank, finish bleeding the brakes and it will be ready for the maiden voyage!

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It was idling around 1700 rpm. hopefully it will come down a little after it warms up.  It was running great though. The mic on my phone didn't like how loud it was. 

 

 

oh and i just realized that was without the intake and MAF. 

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Hopefully I can button up all the loose ends on Saturday and take it out for the first drive. 

 

 

I was hoping to check the codes on the ecu, but it doesnt appear to have an LED like the other s14's ive seen. its from a 1998. 

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Nope. 98 is obd2 and would require an obd2 consult cable and the obd connector from the original wiring harness.

 

The LESs were the obd1 diagnostic method.

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Also i've seen some debate as to whether the iacv tube and vacuum line under the throttle body really need to be plugged in to the intake tube. 

 

I guess if they aren't, it will be unmetered, unfiltered air, but wasn't sure if it would have much affect on how it runs?

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Nope. 98 is obd2 and would require an obd2 consult cable and the obd connector from the original wiring harness.

 

The LESs were the obd1 diagnostic method.

 

Got it. I was confused because i didn't realize that the s14 was obd1 in 1995. 

 

 

I'd like to add an obd2 plug, but i've been struggling to get info. Is far is a could tell i only need 3 wires?

 

power 

ground

and the data wire

 

But which wire, and which pins on the obd2 plug has been difficult to find. 

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It's Alive!

 

 

I'm sure a lot of people wrote this build off long ago considering i started the swap a year and a half ago. It's funny how quickly these projects get sidelined. 

 

When i actually look at how much time i worked on the car. The vast majority of the swap was done in the last three weeks after work lol. 

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IACV defenetly needs to be in the intake stream. And all the pcv stuff need hook up or you will have some problems with the idle

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so i got these a couple months ago from a guy in vancouver with a beautiful 510. only $200 for both. 

 

 

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this happened, 280zx brakes are awesome. Ground kontrol decided that i should have 340lb springs though. They are really stiff. probably helping with the lack of front sway bar though. 

 

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A bunch of shitty pics of the exhaust, the light in my dads shop wasn't helping. 

 

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this is the ISIS trans mount (really stupid design) definitely stiffens things up and no longer isolates vibrations. crossmember probably needs some gussets. did that under the car pre-lift. 

 

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My dad got a lift a few weeks ago. Makes everything so easy : )

 

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My dog loves to lay in the sparcos, little mud prints all over

 

 

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I will take more pictures tonight. Ill give some info on the fuel system for anyone interested. 

 

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I also got an OBD2 plug wired in and am using a code reader as a dash right now. Plan on running a 8" tablet over bluetooth running the torque app. 

 

 

more updates on the way. 

 

Hopefully some donut videos as well. 

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Optima yellow top in the trunk

 

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for fuel im running a small piston pump to pull from the tank to the surge tank, and then a walbro 255 from the surge tank to the fuel rail. 

 

The surgetank plus braided line and fittings all came in a kit on ebay for $100

 

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simple radiator brackets

 

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So im having a problem with the brakes. All four brakes are sticking. All components are new on all four corners and the master cylinder and booster. ive adjusted the brake pedal so the master cylinder returns all the way. i cant figure it out. while im driving the brakes feel great, there is always some resistance though. they never completely release. 

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Very cool build... On the brakes- Are you running an adjustable proportioning valve? With the SX master and ZX fronts, not sure if that piston sizes are compatible... Or if that would cause residual pressure. My first thought was that the pedal rod is too long, but you said you adjusted it. It should have slack when disengaged (I'm sure you know this.. Just thinking out loud).

I hope you get to the bottom of it soon. Love the car and engine choice!

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I had a new 13/16ths master but i couldn't get any pedal pressure so i bought a 15/16ths (280zx), also the rear calipers were on the wrong side. but after fixing that the pedal feels great, its stiff but awesome braking power, and it doesn't pull to one side, they just never release all the way. I adjusted the pedal so it has 1/16 - 1/8th of play before engaging the rod but that didn't fix it. 

 

I'm running a 280zx master

new stock booster

280zx front brakes

200sx rear brakes 

 

the only thing i reused was the stock distribution block/ proportioning valve

 

Could that be the problem?

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I'd post in the tech section about the proportioning valve. My car modding experience is largely with air cooled VW, I'm new to the Datsun scene, but I know The wrong or mis-adjusted prop valve can cause residual pressure issues in those cars.

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yeah i fixed the brakes. The rod connected to the pedal was adjusted correctly, but the rod between the booster and master cylinder was too long. i added a shim and fixed it. brakes feel great. There is a clunky rattely noise coming from the drivers side front though. Think it might be the ball joint. hopefully that is a quick fix. 

 

Also the steering is feeling pretty loose. i replaced tie rods, idler arm, and centerlink. i also adjust the steering box. I guess its probably just worn out. 

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Also, im starting to think at wheels and tires. 

 

im thinking 195/50 r15's in the front with +4 offset. I have 280zx struts so I think those will fit. 

 

And im curious if 205/50 r15's with +12 offset will fit in the back? I have the H165 rear axle so the rear track was increased like 12mm total I think. 

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Update.

Cant believe its been a year since ive looked at this.

 

Wheels and tires : 15x7 konig rewinds 0 offset front and rear

 

195/45r15 federal 595's, super cheap on tireseasy.com

 

Im living in malaysia for work right now so naturally ive been looking for jdm parts.

 

I just bought a front bumper with light. On the lookout for reae bumper and maybe an airdamn or flares or fender mirrors.

 

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If anyone is interested, This car is for sale. It runs perfect, all the drivetrain is dialed. just needs someone who wants to work on interior. 

 

PM me if interested, looking for 3.5K

 

Thanks,

Hunter

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