I'm new and need help with my 75 610 datsun please!

[skinny]

Hello everyone, I'm really new with my datsun I picked it up about a month ago and I love it but the only issue I have is that after driving it for some time it starts to sputter when I accelerate can someone help me find out what the problem is? I already done a minor tune up, spark plugs ngk, New spark wires, oil I used 10w-40 , a wix oil filter and air filter, I also used carb cleaner in the carburetor to clean out what I could I couldn't take my engine apart because I work and I would like to know if anyone else has had this issue, it only sputters or stalls on the initial acceleration whether it's reverse or drive, my car is an automatic also. Sometimes if I give my car enough gas on the pedal it bypasses the stalling and just sputters a little, please someone with info it'd be great

[laotsu]

change your fuel filter.

[olderdat620]

good start loatsu I would also blow out the fuel line from the fuel pump to tank and if it helps take down the tank and have cleaned

[datzenmike]

It's unlikely the fuel filter, although it never hurts to change it if you don't know when it was last changed. A plugged filter will cause hesitation under prolonged load where the carb runs dry because the engine is using gas faster than it can get in through the blocked filter. It will run normally under low loads or around town.

 

Accelerator pump...

Take the top off the air filter and look down the barrel closest to the valve cover when it's warmed up. With the engine OFF, have someone pump the gas several times. YOU, should see a strong squirt of fuel into the carb. This is the accelerator pump and helps the engine transition from the idle circuit to running when using the gas pedal. When the throttle is opened the carb tends to go lean, so raw gas is squirted in to get past this point.

 

If you drive away from a stop slowly and accelerate slowly it probably won't do this.

 

I don't know if just the accelerator pump can be bought separately but all rebuild kits will have it. The accelerator pump can be replaced without removing and dismantling the carb.

[skinny]

thank you guys, i will look into it in the morning i was checking my notifications box to see if my post had gotten posted up but i didnt see anything until i said ill just look on the forums to see if it made it and it did so i barely saw these messages now i will let you guys know further on what has been happening after i do what you guys suggest :D and btw i purchased my datsun for 1700 and it seems fairly all original i want to post a picture to show but i dont know how to do so, once i figure that out ill surely do so

[MicroMachinery]

Read this:

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/691-how-to-post-pictures-and-keep-online-photo-albums/

[skinny]

thanks man, heres 2 images i had taken they kinda suck ill retake more pictures later on

 

 

[MicroMachinery]

I dig it. Been waiting for the right 4Dr to come along for me.

[skinny]

okay so as i worked to fix the stalling issue with the car, i was heading back home from work when all of a sudden my axle breaks on me. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to upgrade it and what i would need to do so?

 

 

 

or any suggestions on what i should do about it? i have called a few shops and the closest to my house is trying to charge me 200 - 300 $ to repair it but if i drive out there are people that give me an estimate of around 100$ does anyone know a simple way to repair it if i just do it at home? it's just the u joint i believe.

[INDY510]

remove the back wheel ..... get two 14mm wrenches ... . remove both sides of the axle (including the small piece that's left on the wheel side)

 

find a buddy to help you install a new U-joint .. or try it yourself .... might as well install 2 new U-joints ... or drive the removed axle to the shop that quoted you $100

[Abe Froman]

It is a 610 so the the inside is not flanged like a 510 ( even simpler to remove ), I would remove it and take it to a shop and have both u joints replaced if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. 

 

  It's hard to tell in the photo is the axle were the u joint go's bent ?

[skinny]

i took off the axle just now,  everything is still in good condition and its just the u-joint connecting the axle to the wheel that is broken apart

[dr.feltersnatch]

first thing you need is a repair manual, do you have one? how about a basic set of tools? with those you can fix just about any part of your car. do you know what carb you have? if not take a pic. i may have an accelerator pump for you.

[datzenmike]

You can fix this with a hammer and a screwdriver and the cost of a new joint $15-$20... and try to get the ones with the grease fitting. Don't pay for someone else's home or Corvette you can do this yourself.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/2329-u-joint-replacement/

[LenRobertson]

You can fix this with a hammer and a screwdriver and the cost of a new joint $15-$20... and try to get the ones with the grease fitting. Don't pay for someone else's home or Corvette you can do this yourself.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/2329-u-joint-replacement/

With the money you save doing the U-joint yourself, you can buy a genuine Nissan 610 Factory Service Manual off eBay for less than $20 including postage (eBay #350456240658). You will learn a huge amount about your 610 from reading the FSM.

 

Len

[skinny]

Here's a picture of the finished u-joint put back into place

 

and here's the picture of my engine bay, there are 2 wires that are sticking out anyone know what they are for?

 

 

[MicroMachinery]

2 wires? If you're referring to the 2 copper lines, those are part of your AC system, and where a set of gauges hook up.

[datzenmike]

Also get a cover on that pos. battery post or wrap some split garden hose on those copper tubes. 

[LenRobertson]

Also get a cover on that pos. battery post or wrap some split garden hose on those copper tubes. 

When I first got my 200SX running, I didn't have a battery hold down. The first hard corner I took, the pos battery terminal hit the copper AC pipes and got them hot enough to start melting the foam covering on the pipes. Smoke was pouring out from under the hood and even under the dash where the copper pipes and foam insulation come through the firewall. Burned my throttle cable in two, but luckily the idle was set high enough I made it home a couple of blocks. I really thought the SX was going to burn to the ground while I watched. I've had a couple of other episodes since then with electrical shorts and smoke, but that was the most dramatic. :lol: Fun times with Datsuns.

[skinny]

Hi guys i have some more questions now on working with my 610. Everyone on ratsun is great and helpful with everything i asked so far so i was wondering about what i should do with upgrading my full suspension and lower end of my car because i would like to have it cleaned up a bit and of course ill keep the original parts. I've heard from some people about using 280zx suspensions , arms , etc. but i was curious if there is any other parts i could use or if the 280zx parts are the best bet?

[bonvo]

they use the 280zx front struts thats it they require cutting and welding to make them work as for the rear end it depends on if your going to lower it or not 

[datzenmike]

The zx struts are about an inch and a half shorter that the 610 ones and will lower the ride height by at least that amount if needed . You can't use the zx springs they are too large a diameter but you can use your 610 springs and perches/top hat on them. The biggest advantage to the zx struts are the super sexy large calipers and vented rotors. Great brake upgrade, but be sure to get the 15/16" master cylinder for them also.  Lowering will add a small amount of negative camber that will need to be accounted for. 710 top hats are off center slightly and will help or camber plates.

[zerow]

I have the 280ZX front strut setup on my 610 sedan. I did not have to cut my housings at all, but I did have to remove the spring perch because, as Mike said above, the 280ZX springs will not work in a 610. I ended up placing a 6 inch +/- long, 2 inch ID heavy gauge steel pipe down to the bottom of the strut housing and using 2 inch ID generic coilovers that ride right on top of the steel pipe. I have the springs at full length (meaning, I have them where they are not "lowered") and I have the stance in the front that I wanted. Not crazy low, just right. I also used stock 280ZX inserts with no problems. Front end rides real nice. The brake upgrade is super and the parts are easier to find. Make sure you get the year of the car that you picked your 280ZX struts off of - you want one off of an early car (1979 - 1981) because the parts are ever so slightly different.

[skinny]

Thanks guys for all the help , I have recently been looking around junkyards and what not but i was thinking that i could buy stuff online and look for the parts at the junkyard for what i cant order online. My question is what specifically should i be getting to upgrade? i see some stuff from rockauto.com that i can order like the struts for the 280zx from 81's but what else do i need?!! i need as much help as i can get :D please!

[zerow]

Simply buying the strut cartridges is a good start, but you will need the 280ZX housings (including spindles and hubs) in order to 'upgrade' the front brakes.

Take the springs off of them while at the junkyard - they wont fit anyway. Take the strut top plates, but I recommend getting new camber-adjustable top plates from a source like T3.

Order a set of generic 2 inch ID coilover sleeves and springs. A nice 250# spring should be sufficient.

Depending on how low you go, you will need some RCAs (roll center adjusters) to correct the steering/suspension geometry.

 

Hopefully this checklist helps. One last thing to check before you get the spindles and hubs: make sure the bearing races are good and attached to the hub. I had one hub where the races spun in the hub housing and that was a no-go at my station.