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New Weber; which one and where from


SickDrift

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There is nothing at all wrong with the electric choke. They work GREAT. Especially on a new carb. No reason to go hacking it up. Connect switched +12v and it will work great.

 

Have to agree. They work fine and remember to shut themselves off better than I do. I used to have a manual choke 521 and would crank it over several time before remembering the choke wasn't pulled out. When I got to work and shut it off there was the choke ... still on!!! shit.

 

Get auto choke and forget it, that's easy.

Get an idle cut solenoid too.

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Most of the time electric chokes work as intended, but like everything else on a car, it does go wrong from time to time, as mine has done. The major downfall comes with the fact that if your electric choke breaks, it is near impossible to fix (at least I wouldn't want to touch it), leaving you with no choke at all. A manual choke is a simple knob and cable setup that, while less convenient, is easy and cheap to fix. If your electric choke works just fine it's certainly better simply for the ease of use, but I would rather have a manual setup just because I know I can take care of any problems that arise with it. Maybe not an issue on a new carb with a warranty tho... But in any event it's prolly not worth disconnecting an electric choke to replace it with a manual one, I would just prefer to have a manual choke. Either setup will be just fine I'm sure.

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Call them and see if there is a conversion kit...I know they are available for 32/36 not sure of 38...Manual choke is better in my opinion...it gives it that old skool feel and sometimes auto choke gets stuck and you have to adjust them. If you have the money go with 38, when you re-jet, it's a mix bag since you may have to change other jets and then it becomes a guesing game. With 38 it is made for higher performance but sidedrafts is another way to go but this of course is mo and mo money...

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With 38 it is made for higher performance but sidedrafts is another way to go but this of course is mo and mo money...

 

I have some weber 45's and manifold with most of the linkage. just dont wanna run those. Not really a twin sidedraft fan. I would run 1 maybe, but I dont have a mani for that.

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Glad I came across this thread. I'm in a similar situation but I'm for sure getting a 32/36 DGEV but I can't find a place with a good price. :(

 

The super cheap are on ebay and look super sketchy even has the wrong kit number "WK663". All the other stores (even redlineweber) says it should be kit number K660 for a datsun. Makes me wonder if its a fake weber.

 

So do I play it safe and pay the $372 for a kit at a local shop or take a risk with those ebay stores and save $100? I tend to be more inclined to play it safe but saving $100 is tempting... :mellow:

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Glad I came across this thread. I'm in a similar situation but I'm for sure getting a 32/36 DGEV but I can't find a place with a good price. :(

 

The super cheap are on ebay and look super sketchy even has the wrong kit number "WK663". All the other stores (even redlineweber) says it should be kit number K660 for a datsun. Makes me wonder if its a fake weber.

 

So do I play it safe and pay the $372 for a kit at a local shop or take a risk with those ebay stores and save $100? I tend to be more inclined to play it safe but saving $100 is tempting... :mellow:

 

What vehicle is it going into? Is the motor completely stock? DD? Is there a way the seller can verify the authenticity of the item? If they're not quoting the correct part number it's possible you may not get the right part. I can for one verify that redline is very very good about answering questions. Looking forward to seeing what you get.

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What vehicle is it going into? Is the motor completely stock? DD? Is there a way the seller can verify the authenticity of the item? If they're not quoting the correct part number it's possible you may not get the right part. I can for one verify that redline is very very good about answering questions. Looking forward to seeing what you get.

 

Its going on a dead stock 510 wagon, automatic. Sort of daily driver in mind.

 

Basicly down where my dad works I can get one for $372 and thats his cost on it. Other places are around the same price when you factor in shipping.

 

The reason I think those ebay places are sketchy is they have that super low price AND free shipping. I don't know how they can under sell every other retailer by $100. :eek:

 

My dad's work has one sitting down there right now, Redline Weber 32/36 DGEV. so I think i'm going to take it and play it safe. Last thing I want is to be out $300 trying to save $100. Or have a temporary fix that'll fail down the road.

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just came across this thread and my $0.02 is with a slightly built motor is to go with the 34/34 with electric choke they make good power in all rpm and there good on fuel i have one on my L20B bored 30 over closed chambered A87 with 5 speed and 411 rear gears running 215/60/14 tires and i get anywere from 30-36 mpg and did i mention good power at any rpm in any gear

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i have 2 521's one with a electric choke bought new the kit was the k660 and it works but the electric chokes come out of tune all the time and have to be fiddled with. one of the biggest problems is the choke kicking down too soon. getting it set right even on a brand new one can be a pain and the to keep it tuned to always work right is a hassle.

 

also the electric choke linkage to the butterfly valve will become loose and the little screw will fall out. basically as your engine wears and it's no fun retuning the choke. hell retuning a electric choke on any car isn't any fun. way too many varibles like smog to get right.

 

now on my other 521 with a l16 i have a manual choke and the nice thing about the 521 is you can find a factory choke cable/knob set up. the 620 never had a factory manual choke set up.. the best thing about the manual choke is if your engine starts running shitty for any reason and i mean any reason you just pull the choke knob out a little bit and you dont have to sit there and try and keep your engine running with the e brake on as your pulling up to a stop. basically it saves you from needing to have 3 legs when it wont idle.

 

once in a while i get a piece of dirt or something in the carb and i just give it a little choke stomp on the gas ans pass it through.:D

 

mike how in the world can you not notice your choke is on with the rmp's up at a stop.:confused:

 

hmmm i dont see anyone saying anything good about the dgav water chokes. most people convert those to electric.

 

so i'm not saying i dont like the convenience of an electric choke but they are way more problematic. can you imagine driving a model t with the timing on the steering wheel and magneto to switch around while driving.

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I used to pull out on the highway and drive and steady 80 KPH till I got to work. If I had been driving in stop and go, yeah I would likely caught it sooner. Didn't happen all the time, only if I haden't had my third cup. The trick was to shut it off as soon as I got up to speed, and this is where a manual will save gas.. you can adjust it or shut it off if you are out on the highway and it's not really needed. In town an electric is just easier.

 

Model T:

yeah if you didn't retard it and cranked the motor over by hand it could fire before TDC and break your thumbs. The good thing about the adjustable timing on the steering was you could run many different brands and quality of gasoline. If it pinged you just retard it a bit. Sort of a manual knock sensor. Sometimes I wish I could adjust my motor timing on the fly

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