New Weber; which one and where from

[SickDrift]

When I buy a new weber kit, which of these 32/36 carbs do I buy for a raised compression L20 on my 73:

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Nissan_Replacement_Carburetors_s/37.htm

 

And where's the place to get one for the best deal?

 

 

Laurence

[pl521sss]

When I buy a new weber kit, which of these 32/36 carbs do I buy for a raised compression L20 on my 73:

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Nissan_Replacement_Carburetors_s/37.htm

 

And where's the place to get one for the best deal?

 

 

Laurence

 

 

cheaper if you get a used one from CL, ebay or swapmeet

and slap on a rebuild kit

Been lucky, ones I bought used are in good working condition.

 

but you can't go wrong with a brand new one.

[SickDrift]

I've considered that, but since these kits seem to be almost bolt-on and come with everything you need, I guess I dont mind buying new, and I get the peace of mind knowing someone else didnt do customizations to make it "better".:rolleyes:

 

Do I need a DGV or DGEV?

[Bleach]

DGEV is electric choke, right? You want electric choke. fo sho

[]2eDeYe]

Depends, do you want an electric choke? Or not?

 

edit: Bleach beat me to it :P

[SickDrift]

Honestly, I dont know if I want an electric choke. Do I?

[hang_510]

need-NO.

 

i often forgot to manually open the choke after warm up :mad:

no need to add a cable either.

[Bleach]

Yes you want one. Its one step closer to automation and fuel injection :D

 

I assume 1973 has the wire for the factory electric choke.

[SickDrift]

Yes you want one. Its one step closer to automation and fuel injection :D

 

I assume 1973 has the wire for the factory electric choke.

 

Im pretty sure it does. Well, atleast I know what I want now. Thanks.

 

Also, is thre a way to modify it to full FI?

 

 

 

;):lol:

[Bleach]

is thre a way to modify it to full FI?

 

Check out icehouse's thread "Datsunaholic, look what I've got!" :lol:

[84TAVeRT]

there is one place on ebay... that has the complete kit for like $250 with a 12 month 12000 mile warantee...

 

later,

Chris

[racerx]

Okay seems like theirs 3 main types of carburators:

 

34/34

 

32/36 electric and manual choke

 

and 38

 

Here's my opinion:

 

1). if you have he money, don't buy used..it can cause you more headaches, unless of course you are experienced in rebuilding carbs.

 

2). be careful about fake webers that are being produce from Eastern Block countries and South America..make sure it's a weber..I've seen some fake 34 and 38 being sold as webers on ebay and Craigslist.

 

3). I would go with 38 since it sounds like you are modifying your engine. If it's bone stock with header a 32/36 is just right.

 

4). When you do order, talk to their tech guy to make sure that if any mods are required they tell how, why and so on..

 

5). Pierce Manifold is a good resource for tech information, check their site

 

6). Prices are about the same, some are slightly cheaper and have come down in price since strike at Weber was over I think a year ago.

 

 

Good Like

[SickDrift]

Whats you opinion on this?

 

The engine I currently have is an L16, with an L20B (U67) head that I was told had bumped up compression. The engine I will be installing during my wifes christmas break is a high comp L20b that he was going to run dual weber 45 sidedraughts on (which I may be selling soon).

 

Would the 38 DGES be fine for both these motors?

 

 

Laurence

[datsunaholic]

The claim that a U67 head increased compression on an L16 would only be true if major reworking of the head was done, as a stock U67 on an L16 LOWERS the compression to below 8:1.

 

However, I have no knowledge of what was done on the head. Major milling would increase the compression (along with increasing the likelyhood of a valve strike if the crank and cam timing isn't set properly).

 

Generally the 38DGAS is a bit too much carb for a 2.0L, let alone a 1.6. But it all depends on how the engines themselves are built. The non-progressive nature of the 38 makes it really prone to bog in low RPM situations on small engines, like starting off from a stopsign or light when the cops are watching you. It works better on 2.5L or more for street use (though technically the 38DGAS is considered non-street legal in Cali)

[SickDrift]

The claim that a U67 head increased compression on an L16 would only be true if major reworking of the head was done, as a stock U67 on an L16 LOWERS the compression to below 8:1.

 

However, I have no knowledge of what was done on the head. Major milling would increase the compression (along with increasing the likelyhood of a valve strike if the crank and cam timing isn't set properly).

 

As it was related to me, the first owner (the guys brother I purchased it from) was an enthusiast. It was explained to me that he had installed the head & bumped up compression with other mods, such as a milled head and higher comp pistons. But, like you said, who knows what the truth is. I guess I'll find out when I tear it down after replacing it.:confused:

 

Generally the 38DGAS is a bit too much carb for a 2.0L, let alone a 1.6. But it all depends on how the engines themselves are built. The non-progressive nature of the 38 makes it really prone to bog in low RPM situations on small engines, like starting off from a stopsign or light when the cops are watching you. It works better on 2.5L or more for street use (though technically the 38DGAS is considered non-street legal in Cali)

 

I'm probably just gonna go 32/36, since part of my goal is to make it somewhat fuel efficient, as long as the consensus is that the 32/36 will do the job sufficiently. I did forget that my friend said the engine Im installing has been bored out some as well, but definately not to 2500cc's.

[racerx]

Sounds like you are going to change engine during Xmas time? if so wait and see...if not a 32/36 is just fine....I prefer manual choke...gives it ol skool feel. And sometimes auto choke gets stuck, with manual you can play with it, also cheaper.

[SickDrift]

Sounds like you are going to change engine during Xmas time? if so wait and see...if not a 32/36 is just fine....I prefer manual choke...gives it ol skool feel. And sometimes auto choke gets stuck, with manual you can play with it, also cheaper.

 

 

This is interesting reading. Thoughts? http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/making_the_right_choice_32.htm

[racerx]

that's so true what they say....again it goes back to what you are going to do with the engine, will you modify or keep it stock?

[SickDrift]

that's so true what they say....again it goes back to what you are going to do with the engine, will you modify or keep it stock?

 

It's already modified. Thats done. I guess I would like to get away with a 32/36 for it's streetability and fuel economy. Guess it means I'll be screwing around with jets now.

[Dudeman]

Honestly, I dont know if I want an electric choke. Do I?

 

I hate my electric choke. It's just one more thing that can (and frequently does) go wrong and it's really not that hard to pull a manual choke lever to start it up. If your electric choke breaks for whatever reason (mine works intermitantly) it's easier to just feather the gas till she warms up than attempt to fix it. Not really a big deal, but I see little advantage and potential downfall to having an electric choke.

[Phlebmaster]

I thought I would need to change to a bigger carb when I put in the regrind cam. I am very happy with the performance of the 32/36 with the new cam...I would try it and see.

[SickDrift]

Dudeman and Phlebmaster,

 

Thanks guys for your input.

 

I sent an email to tech support at Redline Weber describing both my present and future engine and these are excerpts from their reply:

 

[slodat]

Redline/Weber has a pretty good page on this very subject: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/making_the_right_choice_32.htm.

[phatdave]

I agree with the manual choke. Fuck as much electronic/electric/computer crap as is possible.

 

Pull a cable push a cable. Pretty easy.

 

The old VW for the compltete idiot book said to get rid of the choke alltogether. Set and let it warm up roll a cig( probably a reefer) and smoke it while the car warmed up. FUCK the new electronic crap. Henry got it right.

[SickDrift]

I agree with the manual choke. Fuck as much electronic/electric/computer crap as is possible.

 

Pull a cable push a cable. Pretty easy.

 

The old VW for the compltete idiot book said to get rid of the choke alltogether. Set and let it warm up roll a cig( probably a reefer) and smoke it while the car warmed up. FUCK the new electronic crap. Henry got it right.

 

 

Is there a way to convert to manual from electric. The 38mm weber only comes in electric or water choke.