banzai510(hainz) Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Renecly me 521 the clutch pedal felt like it had a 2 stag pedal. If I start with cluth in it would step down another 1/2 inch when the motor started running. then couple days ago it would not go in gear when running. I knew something was up. Then right had work it would have a cliick when I pushed the pedal down. This time it was MORE noticble. I thought to myself Fuck this is the SPEC clutch I got. (with nsourece of orgin where it was made. But had a Veleo Korean made disk but look good) So with that back of my mind I said well maybe its nothind The at work I to go home stick would not go in gear. I said fuck drive it home by starting in gear and shift(can be done with the old 4 speeds) Just needs a bleed slave cylinder. I made it to the Boeing access road and BAM. like the trans went out of gear. This time I can get in in all gears but no power to the ground Tension on clutch is the same like the cltuc is still there but with click. slave moves OK. Now Im thinking trans was about 1/2 quart low a coule weeks ago. Filled it up. Only thing I think the proplem is 1) the center spline to the disk gave out. where those 4 /5 springs are. Thats why the still firm clutch feel. 2)Input shaft sheared off on trans. highly unlikely. 3) clutch fingers broke but dont explain why clutch still had a good feel except the click. Seen some photos of center disk where the spline breaking apart (kind alike the old 45 records you guys had back in the day with the yellow adapter in center. fell off). Be honest this will be the 4th motor pull and Im sick of it!!!!!!!! trade me a jeep Commache with 6 cyl with ax15 trans 4x4!!!!!!!!!! so anybody have this happen. I think I fucked up buying this Spec Clutch or is just a bad disk .If I fix its Daiken/Exedy stock 521 fore sure Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 I bet the center of the disc tore out 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 thats what Im thinking DISK. But I have no help and hate doing this now as I cant get my truck into the garage and moving a engine hoist in the gravel is a pain by ones self when your lining things up. Pulling out not as bad but bad back I just loose motivation, Least in gagrage I can do little at time in more comfort(heater.lighting). Or in middle of night not in rain outside middle of the rain then drop a nut in the gravel spending half hr looking for it. is not FUN!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 i have an excedy from my l18 if you want it. i only ran it a couple months before i blew that motor and went lz. i have the pp and throwout bearing too. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Dr. You live so far awy maybe it better just to get a new one shipped Free to the house. 100$ I got 2 newextra Roadsters P/P but I have them for the 510s and got extra T/O bearings and Aisin Disks also. I do what your doing once I use it no matter how many miles I give those parts away(to people in need) 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 somebody recently posted a photo of the center disk blown out Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 I don't think I've ever seen a thread asking for help started by you... I'm on mobile, where do you live again? We can Ratsun train the clutch down to you if need be. I'm not familiar at all with clutches but I can be a body if you need help moving hoists and shit around. I'm off at 630. Maybe we can get you squared away. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Engine hoist and gravel: Solution: One sheet of plywood. 1/2 inch roofing grade. Also helps for the dropped bolts. Yeah, I know- you need the truck to get the plywood. Well, it should fit (sticking out the back)) in the Cherokee, or on the roof. I know about the getting too used to a newer car- I keep driving the Pathfinder even though it gets worse mileage than my full size 4X4 Chevy pickup (let alone vs the Datsuns). It's just more comfortable than the Datsun (and has working A/C). 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Just park it and drive the jeep. Is what my neighbors do. Lots of Nissan pickups here just need one part Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 Just park it and drive the jeep. Is what my neighbors do. Lots of Nissan pickups here just need one part They will get the part "tomorrow" on Hawaiian time! I love the "no sweat" Hawaiian way of life! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 Yeah Im driving the Jeep then wwent on Amazon yesterday and they have stock Daiken clutches $86 bucks free shipping which Im going to go for. Just open my email to order one today and says my Amazon account has been hacked. Now I got to worry about my credit card account FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!! tristan dont really like asking for help if possible. Just drive train area I hate doing. Im more motor assembley Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 i have changed a lot of 521 clutches by jacking the front end of the truck up on blocks, or running the front end up on some ramps. If you have the bench seat in the truck, it needs to come out, and remove the plate over the shifter. Remove the shifter handle. Remove the drive line, mark the center flanges, so they go back together the same way. The bolt pattern is rectangular, so you can bolt the driveline 180 degrees different. It is easier to reach the driveline to transmission flange bolts from above. Disconnect the transmission switches, and speedometer cable. Remove the transmission mount from the frame crossmember. Unbolt the slave cylinder, and try to set it on a part of the frame so it does not hang by the hose. Remove the starter. The back of the transmission is now sitting on the crossmember. You can remove the two top transmission to engine bolts. Support the back of the engine, with a block of wood, on the oil pan, just enough to hold engine weight. Remove the two lower engine to transmission bolts. The transmission now will slide straight back, enough to clear the input shaft out of the engine. Once the transmission is clear, you can lower the front of the transmission, and I think you can rest it on the torsion bars, to rest, for a moment, then twist it slightly, so it will go through the torsion bars, and slide the transmission forward, under the engine and it is out of the truck. Do the clutch work. Make sure the clutch disk is centered. If the disk is perfectly centered, the transmission will slide easily right in. Watch the two locating dowels. one on top, between the two top transmission bolts, and the lower one, arounf the lower left engie to transmission bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Pulled motor and Yes the disk was the proplem. Rivets pulled out or sheared. Diaphrame where the T/O bearing was wearing into the fingers* I swear this was adjusted fine. Looks like the diaphram would give out in a few thousand miles anyways as the T/O bearing had alot of wear on surface also. Put a new Exedy Daiken 6020 clutch kit(stock) in and drove around the block. Boy I tell you a stock clutch is like Nothing behind it. That slave and Clutch master will last forever I say Avoid the "Spec" brand clutch kits and get Daiken/Exedy or Nissan Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Glad to hear you're back up and running. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 just need to put the hood on. Quote Link to comment
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