1600 sss build to max power possible

[flos]

Why would you keep the l16 crank and rods?

[flatcat19]

Stroke. Long rod is longer.

 

 

I'm building an L18 block.

L16 rods and crank. L28 flat tops. U67 head.

[datzenmike]

If that really is an L16SSS it will already have flattops in it. The compression is 9.0

 

If you bore it 2mm and add L18crank and rods and L28 flattops the compression only goes up to 9.68 so there ls no way around getting some kind of domed piston.

 

 

 

Look behind the #1 spark plug down where the head meets the block. What numbers or letters are cast into it????

[flos]

Its got letters a87

[ggzilla]

That's a regular head. SSS used a 219 casting.

[DISLEXICDIME]

Or v912.

you could just buy a os giken tc4

[datzenmike]

Yup this why I asked a true SSS16 is quite rare.

 

An open A87 L16 will have a compression of 6.72, a closed A87 about 8.2

[flos]

Thats not good news but as soon as I get back home (working in lesoto) im going to strip that head off to see whats inside

[datrod]

Just write your brother a check now!!!! Save yourself a lot of pain and money.

[bonvo]

exactly what dat rod said 

[smoke]

Lower the compression and run around 40 pounds of boost through it, there is your answer. I watched a guy in Sweden pull 391 hp out of a 1641cc vw engine at the wheels of a bug at JPM dyno day. With factory heads, 35/32 mm valves, HX35 turbo FK89 cam, running E85 for fuel. Then cracked out a 10 second pass in that car and even street races it. No one believed what he said it was after he dynoed it, so he pulled off a head right there to show the small valves and small bore. By all accounts, your engine should be able to make more than that.

 

 

 

[smoke]

Same 1641 floor sweep engine, different car. 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Looks like he shifted to 4th way too soon.

[smoke]

The dude is a really shitty drag racer. The light he cut was total crap. If you actually SEE that green light come on, you kinda suck. Not only did he see it come on, he looked at it before leaving like it was a stop light at a 4 way intersection. The short shifting though might be him trying to keep the rpm kinda low. He is running a stock vw, non counter-weighted crankshaft. Those things start to flex at around 5000 rpm. But, in reality, it's probably just bad driving, his times are all over the place. He has ran down in the 9s with it, then will go a low 11, then a mid 10, no consistency.

[datzenmike]

Yes, you can hear the power slowly come on after the shift.

[EricJB]

Stock VW gear box is also an overdrive 4th. The 2nd - 3rd - 4th spread is horrible. Non counterweighted crank in a magnesium case.

[flos]

if we forget the toyota, can anyone give me guidelines how to build that motor to max performance?

 

crank?

rods?

pistons?

valves?

what compression to go for?

what degree cam and what lift?

intake? 

carbs? 

ignition?

 

please!

[Lonestar]

Stage one,

 

Breath and calm down a bit. There are people here who will help you but ya have to try and rein yourself in. Reading what I have so far you seem like a monkey bouncing around in a cage all hopped up on Mountain Dew. We get it, you want to build an L16 to it's fullest but so far, all anyone here know is that you to do to beat your friends Toyota on a bet and your starting to sound desperate.

 

There is only so much you can do to an L16 and it's nothing compared to say, an L20 or a Built Franken L motor. Now if your going to build something for just one race, then I would say follow Smoke's advice and boost da hell out of it. It would (to me anyway) be the fastest and maybe the cheaper route to take. I wouldn't waste my money on building a 10 grand motor just to blow it up in one run.

 

Now if it something else, like to have and drive for a long time, then building it the way you want is the route you should take but it will be long, costly, and very...very...aggravating! Taking this path will mean that you could be down your ride for months, even years, before you get what you want right.

 

So then, there is a guide here somewhere on the forums, a member made an engine build chart of all ways you could build an L motor, N/A or Trubo'd. I'll see if it can be found but start asking yourself, what is it you want from your engine and is it the right type for what ya want.

[Lonestar]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/996-jason-grey-info/

 

And here it is! Read through this first, I'm sure it will have what your looking for.

[datzenmike]

motor, i dont care about running race fuel or whatsoever, just need a race motor that will outrun a toyota 1800 t3 dohc motor.

 

im gonna put the motor in a small toyota 1200 pick up body, will post pics.

Turns out you have a stock L16 with a low compression A87 head on it. On a good day it might make 70 hp so boosting to 3 bar and an inter cooler should get it up near 210 hp. Keep in mind that hp doesn't always win the race. It has to haul it's own weight down the quarter mile and the lighter, the faster it will be. It will also need the correct gearing for the rpms that power is produced in and tires/suspension for traction. What transmission do you plan on? What clutch/driveshaft differential will survive the 5K clutch dump, massive traction and insane 200+ hp? What about welding the differential so you can spread the stress over both tires. Plastic instead of heavy glass?