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510 engine options...


510er

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Okay so i have several engines sitting staring at me in my garage and i need to decide what i want to put in my dime... and or what to piece together to make a bad a frankenmotor

L18 single webber complete runs sitting on engine stand

L20b stock carb setup complete disassembled needs new rings... sitting in boxes on floor

Ka24e out of 89 240sx EFI complete motor and wiring harness runs... sitting in car waiting to be pulled so car can leave... for sr20

Z22 no head just lower end that i hauled home from the j/y yesterday with a few other misc parts and pieces...

So im thinking that i want to do the KAZ22EL... Where i use the head from the KA with the EFI the z22 block and lower end... the L series front with dual timing chain and L mounts...

I have posted this on the 510realm and had many people just tell me to use the KA cuz i have it

I want to build something unique and different and why the hell not!

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So im thinking that i want to do the KAZ22EL... Where i use the head from the KA with the EFI the z22 block and lower end... the L series front with dual timing chain and L mounts...

 

I want to build something unique and different and why the hell not!

 

Different is fine, but will the end result be worth it? You're also gonna have 3 incomplete engines to sell off.

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So im thinking that i want to do the KAZ22EL... Where i use the head from the KA with the EFI the z22 block and lower end... the L series front with dual timing chain and L mounts...

I have posted this on the 510realm and had many people just tell me to use the KA cuz i have it

I want to build something unique and different and why the hell not!

 

Then that's what you should do. If later the KA head swap has too many problems to solve, slip the L20B head on to complete it. Go back to the KA head later. Good plan B.

 

I've run the numbers and if you rebuild the stock Z22 block and put a KA(E) head on it you will have a compression of... 7.7. A little disappointing, but understandable as the KA has a large combustion chamber and a 2.8 dish piston to compensate.

 

If you over bore the Z22 block an fit the KA pistons on the Z22 rods You will still have a compression of 7.7 BUT you can deck the block 1.5mm and this will raise the compression up to 8.6. Milling 1mm off the head might take away about 4cc and this will give about 9:1

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Then that's what you should do. If later the KA head swap has too many problems to solve, slip the L20B head on to complete it. Go back to the KA head later. Good plan B.

 

I've run the numbers and if you rebuild the stock Z22 block and put a KA(E) head on it you will have a compression of... 7.7. A little disappointing, but understandable as the KA has a large combustion chamber and a 2.8 dish piston to compensate.

 

If you over bore the Z22 block an fit the KA pistons on the Z22 rods You will still have a compression of 7.7 BUT you can deck the block 1.5mm and this will raise the compression up to 8.6. Milling 1mm off the head might take away about 4cc and this will give about 9:1

 

Or...

 

You can put it together the way you planned, then turbo the crap out of it, since the compression will be good for it...

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hey did u and i race in spokane i ran with autosports nw like 3 years ago thats a sweet group wish i could have ran the newport course that parking lot is huge

My bro Wes raced with them for a long time i never raced but i was around a few times i have been out of spokane for quite a while and just moved back.

 

I've run the numbers and if you rebuild the stock Z22 block and put a KA(E) head on it you will have a compression of... 7.7. A little disappointing, but understandable as the KA has a large combustion chamber and a 2.8 dish piston to compensate.

 

If you over bore the Z22 block an fit the KA pistons on the Z22 rods You will still have a compression of 7.7 BUT you can deck the block 1.5mm and this will raise the compression up to 8.6. Milling 1mm off the head might take away about 4cc and this will give about 9:1

 

I think that calls for a turbo! woot woot hardend pistons here we come!... :mellow:ill prob would detonate the 2nd time i drove it haha

 

You're also gonna have 3 incomplete engines to sell off.
WHo said anything about selling??? ill use the incomplete 20b and 18 to build a Z24hybrid stroker motor for my back up... and ill save the rest for a rainy day when it all blows up in my face and need to put humpty dumpty back together again
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You're killing me smalls. :D

 

By the way, Auto Parts Barn didn't have a subi lsd, oh well. Thinking about going with a newer 2 way insert anyway. About the same cost, though I'm sure the clutch style engage nicer...

 

Back to the motors. Just do the Z22 with U67 head (20b)and call it good with a sidedraft weber or two. Easiest, cheapest, reliable, lots of compression. Should be about a 12.1 or 13.1 depending on how much you clearance the cylinder head.

 

Or you could use the L20 block and Z20 pistons and rods like I did to build a similar motor with not quite as much torque due to crank stroke but about the same hp.

 

Fuel injection is nice but how long do you want to have the car out of commission? Remember you're going to need to run a return line to the tank, fuel pump, etc, and then all the wires. Just depends on how much time you have.

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Fuel injection is nice but how long do you want to have the car out of commission?

Car is going to be out of commish until i finish the body work... so might as will just play with it until then.. and besides the L18 is ready to bolt in and drive... but so is the KA... hmmm hahahha!!!:lol:

 

By the way, Auto Parts Barn didn't have a subi lsd, oh well. Thinking about going with a newer 2 way insert anyway. About the same cost, though I'm sure the clutch style engage nicer...

THey didnt have one? or they had one but it wasnt an LSD?... NEWER?! :eek: i thouhgt about it but there is more modification to do than i want with that... besides my strange un explainable fetish with bolting 6 different engines together to make one that may or may not explode... i like bolt n go swaps... like the 626 wiper motor and the stanza steering box:D

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You're killing me smalls. :D

 

By the way, Auto Parts Barn didn't have a subi lsd, oh well. Thinking about going with a newer 2 way insert anyway. About the same cost, though I'm sure the clutch style engage nicer...

 

Back to the motors. Just do the Z22 with U67 head (20b)and call it good with a sidedraft weber or two. Easiest, cheapest, reliable, lots of compression. Should be about a 12.1 or 13.1 depending on how much you clearance the cylinder head.

 

Or you could use the L20 block and Z20 pistons and rods like I did to build a similar motor with not quite as much torque due to crank stroke but about the same hp.

 

Fuel injection is nice but how long do you want to have the car out of commission? Remember you're going to need to run a return line to the tank, fuel pump, etc, and then all the wires. Just depends on how much time you have.

 

Stock Z22 with open chamber L head 10:1 closed 10.66:1 (without milling head)

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I saw that and i emailed him... twice! i guess i can try calling him tomorrow i had some questions about it that im leary of... And 300 ponys? :fu: dont think so

 

I think the guy has alot of compression in it, 250hp wouldnt be hard to get. but I dont know about 300

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Stock Z22 with open chamber L head 10:1 closed 10.66:1 (without milling head)

 

Sorry, forgot to mention milling. I just consider that standard on the L heads. But yeah, .030 to .060 thousands off and that boom will be a lot better. A little more prone to detonation, but that can be tuned out.

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