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HELP!!!??? Carbs are popping like crazy


TENDRIL

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So I've been driving for about 2 1/2 hrs just fine all of a sudden car starts dying I pull off the road open the hood and a dizzy wire fell off so I put it back on started right up But now my cars running rich and if I throttle more than a feather carbs are popping and it falls on its face.

 

I'm limping to an auto store in willows ca

 

L20b ei dizzy dual carbs

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carbs dont usually just fall out of tune. now the wire that fell off i would look into that. if it fell off it probably is not the best connection. make sure the connection is clean and tight and the wire did not get fucked somewhere. like melted on a hot exhaust or chopped in a fan etc. i would start there before tearing into your carbs. was it just one wire? what wire? sounds like you have a couple plug wires crossed.

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Two key indicators of popping through sidedraught carburettors (in my experience) is either one/bothhave gone lean for some reason.

 

Either poor tune, or possibly as EA mentioned, stuck float.

 

Another cause, though not as common, is ignition timing going out of whack, generally caused by the distributor not being tightened properly when the ignition timing is done.

 

I'd start by checking the float bowl(s), then ignition timing, followed by valve adjustment, regap spark plugs, make sure firing order is correct, and if you dont know how to, get someone to balance the carbs for you.

 

Not saying the above is the perfect cure, just what RW does.

 

Good luck!

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I'd like to know how you know it running rich.

 

First thing I thought of was lean. But I would take a good look at the wiring and the dizzy cap. Specially the underside. Look for cracks or carbon tracking, even moisture. The spark may be jumping onto another cylinder and popping out the carb. PUll the plugs and be sure they are clean and not fouled. Seems unlikely the wire would fall off and the carb(s)would go lean at the same time.

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The only time I had the carb start popping(are you sure it's not just one of them popping) while I was driving down the road is when I had an intake valve go tight on me, I had to remove that spark plug wire to get home.

The gas they sell around here is awful stuff, it's hard on the valve seats, so the valves start to sink into the seats. 

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It could be ignition but unlikely timing. For a spark plug to fire while the intake valve is still open it would need to be advanced to 128 degrees BTDC. Unlikely. A spark jumping onto another wire on a cylinder that does have an intake open is possible.

 

Another possibility is a tight intake valve not sealing.

Damaged or bent intake valve not sealing

Valve seat fell out.

Damaged or poor sealing intake valve or seat.

 

This problem started after a plug wire was found to have fallen off. I don't believe in coincidences. Doubt very much a plug wire falling off and the carbs going lean at the same time is likely. WHY did the plug wire fall off? Is there a cracked or broken distributor cap? Damaged wire? I think this needs to be ruled out.

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I idea that I got was that a distributor wire fell off, not a spark plug wire, and in my head I seen the engine missing which caused a jerk of the engine, which dislodged the wire, the dizzy lost power, he pulled over, he found and replaced said wire, started it up but now has issues.

I easiest way to find out if it was an intake valve issue was to remove each spark plug wire one at a time till it quits spitting out the carb, that is the easiest way out on the road, if there was no difference, it would not be an intake valve issue.

Another thing it could be is a stuck SU plunger, that will make it run like crap, when the fluid starts getting low in the SU, it will also run like crap, as the plunger is not dampened anymore.

If it's a stuck or sunken bowl float, fuel would have been puking onto the ground, as SU bowls are vented to the air except on stock airfilter housings, so fuel would have been coming out of the vent hose, or pouring out of the airfilter housing as it has drain holes, seems like that would be noticed and diagnosed fast, and since the vent hoses do not pour that fuel down the carbs, the engine would not flood out.

Can the timing chain skip teeth on an L20b and continue to run, I have never heard of such a thing, but I suppose it is possible if the teeth are wore down to nothing.

 

It will be interesting to find out what did exactly happen, let us hope he tells us when he figures it out.

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I idea that I got was that a distributor wire fell off, not a spark plug wire, and in my head I seen the engine missing which caused a jerk of the engine, which dislodged the wire, the dizzy lost power, he pulled over, he found and replaced said wire, started it up but now has issues.

I easiest way to find out if it was an intake valve issue was to remove each spark plug wire one at a time till it quits spitting out the carb, that is the easiest way out on the road, if there was no difference, it would not be an intake valve issue.

Another thing it could be is a stuck SU plunger, that will make it run like crap, when the fluid starts getting low in the SU, it will also run like crap, as the plunger is not dampened anymore.

If it's a stuck or sunken bowl float, fuel would have been puking onto the ground, as SU bowls are vented to the air except on stock airfilter housings, so fuel would have been coming out of the vent hose, or pouring out of the airfilter housing as it has drain holes, seems like that would be noticed and diagnosed fast, and since the vent hoses do not pour that fuel down the carbs, the engine would not flood out.

Can the timing chain skip teeth on an L20b and continue to run, I have never heard of such a thing, but I suppose it is possible if the teeth are wore down to nothing.

 

It will be interesting to find out what did exactly happen, let us hope he tells us when he figures it out.

I agree with that but I don't think he has su's
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If it is spitting out of one throat, it could be as simple as a plugged idle jet. How does it idle? The idle circuit is on from idle to about 2600 to 3200 at light throttle. Then the main circuit takes over.

 

I would just go through a whole tune up procedure, tighten and clean all connections. Check the idle jets. It will more than likely show up. 

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so i did get it figured out and this is just about what happened 

 

I idea that I got was that a distributor wire fell off, not a spark plug wire, and in my head I seen the engine missing which caused a jerk of the engine, which dislodged the wire, the dizzy lost power, he pulled over, he found and replaced said wire, started it up but now has issues.

 

 

 after i wrote the post on the side of the road i read Adam's post and  i located an auto store store about 20 miles away. than my phone died ... but couldn't make it safely to the store so luckily about a mile of limping on the freeway shoulder a rest stop popped up and i  pulled off to start a fuel and ignition inspection. needless to i say i went through everything twice except, the one thing that went wrong in the first place.... and i discovered that the dizzy was barley running on two negative wires from the coil and the reason this happened is because I've been trying to figure out my factory tach.  and why it no longer is wanting to work. i had a dummy wire on the coil to troubleshoot with.

 

and in a rush i forgot to check the simple things like is the wire that i connected really connected to what i think it is..rookie mistake...

 

 

i wanted to thank everybody for the quick responses. although i was able to get it sorted out it is nice to know that i had the support needed if i was not able to figure it out on my own  

 

Thanks

 

-Ray

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