tr8er Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 It happens... Looks easy too. I have an 11-in-1 screwdriver. 1 Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 you say you dont wanna cut it up....putting an rb in it will require a SHITLOAD of cutting why not go with a ka? easier to find cheaper almost the same displacement if not more depending on the rb alot more parts available over the counter at a parts house and the topper it fucking fits i dont understand why all these people wanna stuff an rb into a 4 cyl datto the only state side datsuns an rb will fit in without significant cutting are the z cars and the 810/910 maxima if your like me and cant justify a swap without gaining more cylinders go with a vg30 same advantages as the ka and even more displacement though from what ive seen in a certain build thread on here stuffing one in a 620 is a challenge btw a numbers matching datsun isnt special no matter how you slice it most of the world still sees these cars as disposable and they dont give a shit if the original motor is in the car or not Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 But the problem is, why put several hundred dollars into rebuilding a stock 18 when i could put that money into the swap? is anyone going to want to buy the 18 when i pull it back out? . But if it had the original L16 it would make sense??? I do not get this at all. You're going to hack up a good 620 to stick a motor in that does not fit? 73-74s were L18 stock. I think you should just rock it. Stick the RB somewhere else. Up to Sept '73 were L16 motors. October '73 (making it a '74 model year) to Aug '74 were equipped with L18s Look on the driver's door jam for the build date stamped into the tag. Oct '73 on... is a '74 model year. A '74 L18 will have a transmission that is 31.5" long. The earlier L16 had a 26" transmission with a removable oil pan that looks like this... If you have this then it's likely the motor was swapped. Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 You are not going to have an "original" truck unless you can find one that was put into controlled storage with only 20 miles on it. So just fix what you have and enjoy tooling around in a somewhat original truck. If it has a good sound body and floorboards please don't screw it up. Nobody gives a shit if the numbers don't match Mine is original except for the tires, wheels, disc brakes, weber carb, paint, radio, stock tach, electronic ignition, and the rear end gears, and numerous small items that have worn out B) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 The only original part on my '78 is the tail lights and the axle tube. Cab is a '77, frame an '82, wiring / motor/trans/trans case/dash,steering column... 720, front end Toyota, rims and driveshaft...GM. Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 I do have the original spare tire and wheel, 6.00x14 bias ply, never been used Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 It happens... Looks easy too. I have an 11-in-1 screwdriver. Except that's an SR. Not RB. Already missing the 2 cylinders. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 .... and a truck would have more room. Quote Link to comment
jser12 Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 I just say go for the RB. why the hell not. Or if you want room and still wanna be different. Go ca18 or fj20 1 Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 fj20 ftw rare but so bad ass Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/4176719460.html Just buy this one. And do what ever you want. And for all you #matching guys : This one is. I looked at it Friday. It's as original and unmolested as one gets. http://portland.craigslist.org/nco/cto/4181791956.html 1 Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 RB engines are so awesome In things that took an inline 6. FJ20 FTW. Honestly, I am a mega Nissan head, and I would rather see you shoehorn an LS1 in that thing. I absolutely hate the LS1 swap, but at least that might make some semblance of sense. An RB26 makes virtually no sense, get a different vehicle for it. Most of us are tired of seeing cars hackjobed for an engine that makes the vehicle worse in every way except a straight line. Quote Link to comment
jmunky90 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Ok, i see we definitely have a consensus here. So what are the best pistons available for the 18 that will be good for a daily driver but still offer some added performance and aren't too god awful expensive? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Pistons don't add "performance". They increase or decrease compression based on the amount of dish/dome. Piston design/material is important if you've increased power and need something with different heat and strength, but unless you're shoving a lot of forced induction in, stock-type pistons are fine, so you simply have to choose pistons to get the desired compression ratio. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/4176719460.html Just buy this one. And do what ever you want. And for all you #matching guys : This one is. I looked at it Friday. It's as original and unmolested as one gets. http://portland.craigslist.org/nco/cto/4181791956.html $3500 is a great price for that. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Ok, i see we definitely have a consensus here. So what are the best pistons available for the 18 that will be good for a daily driver but still offer some added performance and aren't too god awful expensive? . I merged your original post on this truck to the beginning of this one. It's in chronological order anyway and keeps it all together. If you are looking for some easy power like 10-15hp and more torque. Find an L20B motor and rebuild it. L16/18/20B will all cost about the same to do so. The added displacement will give you way more power than anything you could do to your L18. Car or truck L20B will work ... you have the truck oil pan and exhaust manifold. Just rebuild it. Quote Link to comment
ArchetypeDatsun Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Sell me the RB26 and get yourself a KA24 or a SR20 or even built the hell out of a L20B! 2 Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 $3500 is a great price for that. Yea. I am looking for a donor for another 4x4 conversion . This one was way to nice to cut up. I have to agree with the group . The RB is just the wrong engine for the 620. Look you've got an 1800 . My slant is: keep it simple. Build up a proper SSS clone. Simple to do, direct fit, cheaper , and a fun little screamer. You'll be happy. Quote Link to comment
jmunky90 Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Anybody use these before? http://www.datsport.com/engine-piston-hypatec.html I like the comp ratio, they come in many overbore sizes, and the coated skirts are definitely a plus. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 A bit overkill but would work. Stock pistons are more than strong enough for a stock or even modified motor. Save the money and put into a new 32/36 weber or cam. I still say for the same re-build price do an L20B and an instant 10+ hp. Cam and carb increase on top of that. Quote Link to comment
jmunky90 Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Who would have one of those in north Iowa? Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Like I've said before. It's not a "MoPar". So matching numbers cracks me up. It's a freakin Datsun no one cares. But cut it up for an RB swap is even funnier to me. Just rock the L18 and be happy. 1 Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 NAPA auto parts: Part Number: ATK 311B Product Line: NAPA IronClad Attributes:Complete Engine Size & Type : Nissan L20b Rd. Comp Eng Warranty:See Manufacturer's Complete Written PolicyWarranty PDF At $1465 / a pretty Good deal on a new engine. All of you're externals accept the clutch and flywheel will fit. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 NAPA auto parts: Part Number: ATK 311B Product Line: NAPA IronClad Attributes:Complete Engine Size & Type : Nissan L20b Rd. Comp Eng Warranty:See Manufacturer's Complete Written Policy Warranty PDF At $1465 / a pretty Good deal on a new engine. All of you're externals accept the clutch and flywheel will fit. What? I wonder what head it will have on it. Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 All I can tell ya is that it is listed with a round port. Quote Link to comment
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