72O Posted August 20, 2013 Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 Starting my first build thread, I have a 1986 Nissan 720, 4WD, 172k on odo. This is when I first got it. This is when my friend Sam (Samvanman) and I cleaned up the interior to find shorts. BEFORE AFTER All the unnecessary wires we pulled out I've had this truck for 7 months now, i've done a lot to it since and plan on doing more. What is done so far - Polyurethane bushings on lower and upper control arms & both leaf springs - All new ball joints and CV boots - New Alternator & Battery - Fuel Regulator I've kind of slacked off on the project but now that summer is over I'm ready to get back into it. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 20, 2013 Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 Summer is over??? Well that totally sucks! :lol: Welcome B) Nice first post, your truck looked decent when you bought it, so you are way ahead of the game already, have fun with it. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted August 20, 2013 Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 great lookn 720 man!! Quote Link to comment
PDX Matt Posted August 20, 2013 Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 Sweet truck! Where did you get the bedliner at? Quote Link to comment
72O Posted August 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 Thanks! More pictures are coming! I do however a question for you guys, im trying to fix the passenger window Regulator. It all works and everything but if you can see in the picture the window wont roll up perfectly because the bottom of the regulator is angled. It sits like this When I need to sit higher like this. Any way I can position the regulator to align perfectly? Thanks for the feedback. B) Quote Link to comment
72O Posted August 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 Purchased a Herculiner bedliner kit for $90 at AutoZone. Pretty easy DIY. Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Welcome. Very nice 720. Looking at your pics, I think instead of the glass needing raised on the left end, it needs to be seated on the other end. The beige-colored pieces that bolt to the regulator should cover the gray metal parts just to the left in the pic. The beige tabs should be bonded to the glass and bolted to the regulator, and the regulator should pull the glass down, not just let it fall by gravity. If the window is loose and can be lifted a little, slide the regulator to the left and seat the tabs over the gray parts that wrap around the glass. If it won't stay put, you may have to use a bit of epoxy. Quote Link to comment
72O Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Painted the grill and front/rear bumpers. This bumper is up for sale. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 What is done so far - Polyurethane bushings on lower and upper control arms & both leaf springs - All new ball joints and CV boots - New Alternator & Battery - Fuel Regulator Let us know how those polly bushings work out. They tend to be too hard and don't flex enough and one side or the other chafes and wears out. They usually squeak too. See in a year's time. I have them on a set of shackles and they are already have an oval hole where the bolts go through. Why the fuel regulator? Did you swap carbs or change the electric pump? The Z24 has a history of blowing head gaskets every 100K so yours is over due. The next time you get the chance, and while the motor is cold, loosen each head bolt... but only one at a time. Re-torque to 60 ft pounds. Then go on to the next. You can do this in any order just be sure to do only one at a time. This is in the Nissan FSM and is advised it be done every tune up so at least once a year. Most owners have never heard about this, the gasket blows, they try to fix it, take the head off and the chain tensioned fall out internally and they scrap it. While you are at it. Put the valve cover on loosely, and warm the motor. Set the valve lash to 0.012" intake and exhaust while hot. Quote Link to comment
72O Posted August 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 I've had the polyurethane bushings on for a couple months now, they are a pretty stiff ride. An aftermarket fuel pump was put on when I bought the truck. I'm thinking of going back to stock pretty soon, I feel that it makes the fuel delivery worse. I might need more step by step procedures of re-torquing the head bolts and setting the valve lash though I am a beginner at engine work. I haven't even touched the block yet but I can this weekend, what are things I should tune up? I have noticed a ticking noise lately, valve adjustment? Plus, I can't quite get the idle right on my truck. Sometimes when it is put in neutral or starting up the RPM is around 2-3000. Turning my A/C on will sometimes overheat my engine and lowers the RPMs dramatically. Also, when I shut off my engine sometimes it shakes pretty hard and spudders out. I can video tape it if that's not descriptive enough. I'm installing new brake rotors this weekend, I can take a look at all of this. One last question, any suggestions on having less play with shifting?? Quote Link to comment
72O Posted August 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 I installed new brake rotors this weekend Quote Link to comment
OneFreakyMF Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 When I replaced my clutch a few years ago I replaced a bushing where the shifter attaches to the tranny. Didn't eliminate all the slop but it was a lot better! I'm sure there are others that are more familiar with fixing this issue.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 I've had the polyurethane bushings on for a couple months now, they are a pretty stiff ride. New rubber would be better, but it's ok. I have noticed a ticking noise lately, valve adjustment? Very possible. Plus, I can't quite get the idle right on my truck. Sometimes when it is put in neutral or starting up the RPM is around 2-3000. Turning my A/C on will sometimes overheat my engine and lowers the RPMs dramatically. Also, when I shut off my engine sometimes it shakes pretty hard and spudders out. I can video tape it if that's not descriptive enough. With engine off, turn key on then off on off on off. You should hear a light clicking sound from the carb. Does it? I'm installing new brake rotors this weekend, I can take a look at all of this. Why, they look fine. One last question, any suggestions on having less play with shifting?? You have this type of shifter bushing? Quote Link to comment
72O Posted August 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 Yeah, the carb clicks.... Im working on fixing the issue now. I'll check the bushing tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted August 27, 2013 Report Share Posted August 27, 2013 PM'ed you on the bumper, and I have extra bushings if you need them. Nice truck! Quote Link to comment
72O Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Sorry that I haven't gotten back to you elmer, I just sold the bumper to a local. :blush: 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Hi Moises, I am sure you already know the stock fuel pump runs continuously that is why there is a fuel return line from carb to tank. If the after market bump shuts off after building pressure you will end up running lean. I've had the polyurethane bushings on for a couple months now, they are a pretty stiff ride. An aftermarket fuel pump was put on when I bought the truck. I'm thinking of going back to stock pretty soon, I feel that it makes the fuel delivery worse. I might need more step by step procedures of re-torquing the head bolts and setting the valve lash though I am a beginner at engine work. I haven't even touched the block yet but I can this weekend, what are things I should tune up? I have noticed a ticking noise lately, valve adjustment? Plus, I can't quite get the idle right on my truck. Sometimes when it is put in neutral or starting up the RPM is around 2-3000. Turning my A/C on will sometimes overheat my engine and lowers the RPMs dramatically. Also, when I shut off my engine sometimes it shakes pretty hard and spudders out. I can video tape it if that's not descriptive enough. I'm installing new brake rotors this weekend, I can take a look at all of this. One last question, any suggestions on having less play with shifting?? Quote Link to comment
vanmansam Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 The bed looks good. Quote Link to comment
72O Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Thanks Sam, miss you buddy. Quote Link to comment
72O Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Decided to do a little photoshoot on the beauty rig, enjoy the pics! Quote Link to comment
72O Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Replaced about 70% of the vacuum lines, plugs and wires. Cleaned the egr valve and carb. Runs like a charm. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Hi Moises, I am sure you already know the stock fuel pump runs continuously that is why there is a fuel return line from carb to tank. If the after market bump shuts off after building pressure you will end up running lean. . Charlie, I think on carbed 720s the pump runs (more or less) continuously because there is a return line with a small orifice so some pressure can be built up against it. If the return line were fully open the gas would just rush back to the tank. The 720 electric pump is governed to produce about 3.5 pounds of pressure and will then shut off until it drops. After market pumps would be similar. Carbs hold more than enough gas in the float chamber to drive for a block or more and certainly enough for the pump to come back on and refill it again. The carb is in little danger of running out or lean. My 720 pump comes on with the key and buzzes quickly for 2-3 seconds, slowing to a chugging sound as pressure builds. Quote Link to comment
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