edekalil Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Anyone know of a good source on line to get a break master cylinderat a good price. They want a rediculas amount if you can find one. Eddie Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 210 booster, $50-150 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Brakes are the most important safety feature on your car, on top of the fact that the car can't be driven without them. They HAVE to work and be ready to work 100% of the time under any and all conditions. You and others on the road depend on it. Don't cheap out on this. Many new masters are junk made in China and are a fail right in the box. Others 're-built', are the same with cheap internal parts and a guarantee. So if you are left stranded with a master you replaced 4 times for free, what good is that? New from Nissan they are about $250 so half that would be reasonable. Quote Link to comment
NaudiS4 Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Get the 7/8 in replacement from Troy Ermish. Brand new for $110. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Stock 510 masters are 3/4" I believe. On a stock unmodified car this is the size you want. If you increase the master size you will move more fluid but it will take more effort to do so. Think of a hydraulic jack handle. If you place your hand lower down on the handle, you can lift with less movement but it is a lot more work. Increasing to a 7/8 will make the pedal firmer (less travel) with more effort to make the same stop than with a 3/4". My '74 710 has a one size larger master because the original one leaked and I had the other. It pedal feels like stepping on a brick. It's an automatic so you have to hold the brakes at every stop. I'm used to it now but my other 710 was way easier. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 210 booster, $50-150 Proof since there was no pics... i didnt read anything. I just posted words. Quote Link to comment
DatMo Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 If you were only switching to zx struts in the front, i recommend keeping the 3/4's. I got a 7/8's but after driving my friends dime with 3/4's, I'm probably gonna stick to it. The 7/8's is gonna be tough. Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 This is my 70 two door I bought from an old lady I know out in the country. I got it back to running and now planning to get the clutch working this weekend. And trying to get ready for the brakes, after that I can get out of the building and clean it up and give it a good run. The lady I got it from was in her 80's and when I got the car she had cut the seat belts out of the car. Well any way that's the problem with having to many cars and not being able to keep all of them working with out any problems. I plan to keep this car all original. I have one behind this one that is the first 510 I ever got way back a 72. I got a motor ready to drop in it (just stock 1600) and make it a stick shift (took out the automatic). I will have to do the same to it (the hydraulic clutch and brake work to get up and going). At least That way then I can drive those two sedans and enjoy the ride. I will have to go see my friend at the Nissan dealership this Monday and check on what they can get. I will also have to look into what I will have to do as far as what I will need for the 510 I have that I do plan to put 280ZX struts and calipers on. Don't you have to do something with the proportioning valve I think it's called? Eddie Quote Link to comment
CaliforniaDays Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 Brakes are the most important safety feature on your car, on top of the fact that the car can't be driven without them. They HAVE to work and be ready to work 100% of the time under any and all conditions. You and others on the road depend on it. Don't cheap out on this. Many new masters are junk made in China and are a fail right in the box. Others 're-built', are the same with cheap internal parts and a guarantee. So if you are left stranded with a master you replaced 4 times for free, what good is that? New from Nissan they are about $250 so half that would be reasonable. Dont mean to barge in on a thread from a month ago, but I accidentally got a 7/8 master cylinder replacement for my 3/4, what will it change? Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 Dont mean to barge in on a thread from a month ago, but I accidentally got a 7/8 master cylinder replacement for my 3/4, what will it change? See post number 5 above. It pays to read more than the very last post. Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Well I changed the master cylinder on the 70 510 and have bought the parts to do the rest (rear wheel cylinders, rebuild kit for the calipers, new flexible lines for the front, new shoes and pads) just have to get the time to Finnish it up. I put a master cylender on the 72 510 but it is not pushing flud through when pumping it (probably something minor). I did notice that the mc on the 70 which is a stick from the factory was different from the 72 witch was an automatic from the factory. The mc on the stick shift car the brake lines are closer together, the mc on the automatic car the lines are spaced farther apart. I will post pics later. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 there were 2 types of brake masters. the farther apart one is the most like replacement avail. I have 1 each as spares. Quote Link to comment
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