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msd ignition question?


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Get the electronic ignition known as the matchbox distributor. It was used on all '79-'80- L20B equipped vehicles. They sell for under $100 around here and probably less in wrecking yards. Learn what they look like and keep your eyes open. Be sure to get the matching coil with it. It can handle the extra power your old points coil will burn out if used with it. I have no faith that an MSD does anything better for far more money. Well it looks pretty I guess.

 

The benefit is never having to change the points again, ever. Timing once set does not change. More output to fire the plugs more consistently. (I think they start faster) 

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If your points system is well maintained (cleaned and gaped properly) swapping in a matchbox is hardly noticeable. Mine ran basically the same but it ran perfectly for over 5 years with ZERO maintainance, I totally forgot about the ignition and the carbon button on the cap that rides against the rotor wore out. A used spare cap and I began forgetting about the ignition again. Other than the cap and rotor it's maintainance free. Set.... and forget.

 

Don't be sucked in by claims of 30K, 40K, 50K volts output. Spark plugs will fire with as little as 9K volts. High compression or turbo/SC motors need 20-25K but a 50K coil doesn't fire the plug with that much. Once the air between the electrode tip and the ground brakes down at say 27K volts an arc begins, this is a direct short to ground and the voltage doesn't rise above that.  Multi spark discharge? Hmmmm if it was doing it's job properly the first time, why would you need to light a fire twice?

 

 

I already running a electonic dist outta 80 200sx.just wanted to upgrade

Did you re-gap your spark plugs to take advantage of the extra output from the coil? Try 0.038"-0.042" but be sure your plug wires are good. Going to a wide gap will force the voltage higher to jump it. You do get a longer spark which exposes more fuel/air to ignite. The plug wires have to be able to handle this. Electricity ALWAYS searches out the shortest path to ground. This shortest path has to be the plug gap and not from a weak wire to the valve cover.

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MSD is a cheap insurance policy(the 6AL box).Will it help in the HP department over a PROPERLY set up factory electronic system?No.But it will clean up the idle if you have a big stick and or something is "a-miss"(pun intended).

With the factory electronic systems and MSD's,Pertronix is point-less(another pun intended).

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 Would the MSD coil be a noticeable improvement? Not really. Like it was said, for sure a more reliable car, better spark,, and smoother idle.  If you are talking about the Ignition box ( 6201 is all you need for an L20B. No need for rev limiter nor digital adjustability, that 'd be a Turbo  engine issue.)... the ignition box ( MSD 6201 ) is for sure an upgrade.

 

 You will notice better response, better spark, under all conditions, even better lamps all around due to better primary and secondary voltage. Make sure all basic issues are working good. Stuff like carburetion, distributor and good engine ( good compression, tuned up with valve adjustment and all tunning related stuff.)

 

  You should start by getting an electronic distributor, a good carburetor ( Weber 32/36 DGES progressive or 38 DGES which is better.) and then off course the 6201 MSD Ignition box  and MSD coil to work in conjunction. A dung carburetor will not allow you to notice improvement beyond smoother idle and response. Points distributor will limit the MSD potential.  But if done properly yes you will have very noticeable improvement in power, response, idle and even gas mileage. Better spark means better efficiency and that translates to performance and mileage. Off course it is hard not to speed up when the engine feels so good.

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You should start by getting an electronic distributor, a good carburetor ( Weber 32/36 DGES progressive or 38 DGES which is better.) and then off course the 6201 MSD Ignition box  and MSD coil to work in conjunction.

DGEV is the 32/36 progressive. Well, one of the progressives. That's the one with the electric choke. There's also a water choke, manual choke, and one that's a mirror image of the "standard one" and they've all got different model codes. Weber be crazy

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DGEV is the 32/36 progressive. Well, one of the progressives. That's the one with the electric choke. There's also a water choke, manual choke, and one that's a mirror image of the "standard one" and they've all got different model codes. Weber be crazy

 As far as I know, DGEV and DGAV stand for water and electronic choke. Not sure if the E corresponds to Electronic and the A to water, could be opposite, but definitely that is the nomebclature.  Perhaps manual choke corresponds to DGV. Go figure !

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As far as I know, DGEV and DGAV stand for water and electronic choke. Not sure if the E corresponds to Electronic and the A to water, could be opposite, but definitely that is the nomebclature. Perhaps manual choke corresponds to DGV. Go figure !

Yeah, I think you're right on all that. A for agua maybe?

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