Problem with Newly Built L20b

[banzai510(hainz)]

IM not a spary bar expert

But a spray bar was used on cams that dont have the plug in the back.

If you cam has the plug in the back and you usinag the spray bar your just double oiling the cam. I dont know if its really neccesary or not.

Im thinking just having a KA oil pump and stock everything else would be fine.

 

Or you dont have a plug and your oil holes are off on the spray bar and its missing one of the rockers to wear out but Im sure you looked under the valave cover if anything obvious.

[racerx]

Practically everything is outsourced.  Had sunpros on several cars never had any problems.  The ones on my Datsun been there for like 8 years no problems.  Have SW (Stewart Warner) tach on my 65 mustang and not even a year and now not reading right.

[510SSS]

Bought a Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge that I am going to hook up this weekend. I also deleted my oil spray bar system in my valve cover. Getting rid of the KA24de pump, and going back to a japanese made Paraut stock pump.

 

Should I do a compression test and leak down?, and make sure everything is good with the bottom end. Also I will do another valve adjustment to make sure I am exactly within spec.

 

I read in another thread that this sound could be caused by perhaps a compromised head gasket, I was wondering if I have .020 overbored cylinder would I need a special headgasket to prevent piston slap? I just used the stock fel pro one.

 

I bought 5 quarts of Delo 15w-40 oil, (was running Castrol 10w-40) and am going to do a complete oil change as well as filter to make sure nothing is getting clogged up. So the timing chain is tensioned by oil pressure?, in this case would low oil pressure cause chain noise?

 

Is there any way that a vaccuum leak or exhaust leak could cause this type of metallic rattling sound? I do not have my PCV system hooked up and I just have a open PCV valve on my manifold, should I plug this hole? or should I try to find a hose that can fit around my headers to connect to the crank case ventilation tube?

 

Thanks for your help every1 I am trying to narrow it down.

[hobbes_the_cat]

My advice is do one thing at a time. It sounds like you have a lot of ideas that could be the solution. Almost all revolve around oil. Don't start swapping or deleting parts until you know what your oil pressure is. That KA oil pump could be fine, the spray bar could be fine, oil filter could be fine. No need to waste time swapping parts if the oil pressure is already where it should be. Eliminate oil pressure as the problem (bu hooking up the gauge) then move on to the next possible source of the noise if needed.

[Laecaon]

Stock Headgasket is fine. I am using the Felpro HG on my 87mm bore. (Stock is 85mm)

 

I currently have both my block and valve cover vents open. And duct tape over the PCV. No sounds.

 

Hook up the Gauge asap.  Dont take out the KA pump yet.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I would leave the ka pump in there for now.

[racerx]

Yeh, if you do have a vacuum gauge, I would check what my vacuum is.  Readings on a vacuum gauage can tell you a lot.  You can also go on line and se the different types of vacuum readings. It's one of those tools that people take for granted but can point to the direction where the problem could be..good luck.

[datzenmike]

The Z24i, KA24E and KA24DE truck motors all had the higher volume output oil pumps. The internal rotors are 13% longer, I measured them. If you have one KEEP IT!! It gives improved pressure at low speeds and idle.

[510SSS]

Hmm ok I was reading on other forums that it could possibly rob up to 10hp from the motor with a higher output oil pump such as this, is this true?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Just to clarify the topic of spray bar usage, the aftermarket spray bars were inteded to increase the oiling on 4 cylinder cams when high spring pressures are required for big cams.

 

Unless you have a monster cam and heavy springs, you won't need one. A good "turbo" pump will be more than sufficient.

[datzenmike]

Hmm ok I was reading on other forums that it could possibly rob up to 10hp from the motor with a higher output oil pump such as this, is this true?

 

That's ridiculous unless I said it. The pressure relief valve is set for about 55 pounds so any extra is recirculated around to the inlet. It's not pumping a higher volume of oil it simply has more available if needed like for a spray bar or to cool/lube a turbo. Idle and low RPM oil pressure always drops because the sum or all the oil used for the cam and crank mains and rod bearings leaks out faster than it can be put in. A high volume pump can replace the oil leaked out past all the bearing faster than the stock pump and the pressure goes up.

 

My tired 300,000Km L20B (still runs just fine) had a hot idle oil pressure of 17 PSI. With no other change than a well used KA high volume oil pump from a wrecking yard, the hot idle pressure jumped to 29PSI and that's significant. If you could save 10 hp by using a smaller L16 oil pump, KA owners would be swapping them in... they don't.

[510SSS]

Well my oil pressure seems to be fine from the spray bar, however I think the previous owner of this block removed the check ball inside the oil filter and blocked it off, could this be a problem impeding oil circulation? Now that I listen more closely. The sound may actually be detonation, I am thinking since I have some carbon deposits on my number 3 piston. Could this cause a hot spot in the combustion chamber? Perhaps, also because my timing is advanced too much. I think I have a problem because when I try to turn the dizzy to retard the timing enough it hits the thermostat housing so I cannot turn it very far counterclockwise. What should I do to stop this detonation? Take it to a machine shop to unshroud the valves? Colder plugs?

[racerx]

what is the initial timing set at?

[510SSS]

Not sure yet I ordered a timing light on amazon will get back to you guys on exact timing.

[banzai510(hainz)]

set motor back to TDC and rotate the pedastal 180 deg so the vac advanve is on the other side. I know the box might get hotter but I seen them run that way OK.

yes do the timming ck.

 

as for the statment you mean the ball in the block or the anti drain v

[510SSS]

I mean the ball in the block what would happen if this were blocked off?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I never heard of this myself where the ball is closed up.

Im not a racer but maybe that a mod I dont know about.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I never heard of this myself where the ball is closed up.

Im not a racer but maybe that a mod I dont know about.

It's a pressure relief valve/ oil bypass. On race motors you tap it and plug it with an NPT plug to keep oil circulating through the filter, and to lessen the chance of failure.

 

Having it removed will not hurt anything.

[EricJB]

Did oil filters have relief valves in them 40 yrs ago? I think the fact that they do now makes the stock one redundant. A race filter would have a higher pressure relief. I always plug mine off and the the press in galley plugs as well. 1/4 npt.