skyblue Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 I tried Nissan, but they are NLA. :( 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 I used the 620 wheel cylinders on my 320, but I used the 320 "Y" with the 620 bolt. 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 (edited) Ok, so here it goes. I tried to install the rear cylinders, but the original ones had bleeders built into them and the new ones did not. The other thing was that the brake line port surrounding was too big to fit the original hole and the screws were different than the originals as well. So what I ordered was: Dorman Part# W37210 from Rock Auto. These will not work, as I found out. The front cylinders were Doram Part# W37209 and they worked perfectly. For the rear, I removed them and use air pressure to push the pistons out. Once they were out, I cleaned the entire assembly and the original oil seals were completely perfect. So, I put them back in, bled them and they work as advertised! The brake lines worked fine for the front as well as the clutch slave cylinder. Although, I found out that my clutch master cylinder is probably toasted. Off for more parts. Today I did find these little jewels so I can install my mag wheels and not worry about finding the right nuts. Autozone!! Tomorrow, the steering column, gas tank and tail lights go on. After that, just waiting on tires, clutch master and registration. All most there!!! Edited June 23, 2019 by 4perrev 2 Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 yea those are the same ones i ordered for the rear that didnt work. I will just have to rebuild mine too then. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 No problem. Mine were stuck, so I push air from a compressor in the fluid port. Pushed the plungers right out. Make sure you wrap the whole assembly in a rag before you do it or you may dent something or loose em! Got a clutch master cylinder on order. Steering shaft & wheel are back in. Tailgate on and gas tank back in. She ran off her own tank today for the first time since I bought her. Runs great! Getting excited to get her on the road. Things left to do: 1) Get tires. 2) Install clutch master. 3) Install all marker lights and tail lights. 4) Install Weber carb. After that, she'll need some paint, but that may be down the road! 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 a 2 door 510 that needs my attention. Finally got one because I thought they were all gone! Paulo has a stack of 510s in his yard in Maysville somewhere 521 wheels cylinders there is a issue with the Y connetor or blled screw being the same. As I got mine from Rockauto also 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Banzai, thanks for the tip. I'll have to look him up when I get down to working the 510. On another note, I received my new clutch master cylinder and installed it. After 1 3/4 years of building, she is alive! I actually drove her today around the block. Smiles from ear to ear between my wife and I. Now all I need is tires for my mags and we;ll be off and running. I picked up some new seatbelts out of a 2000 Dodge ram. They were the rear seatbelts out of a quad cab. Kept all the bolts from the Dodge and they fit perfectly in the Datsun. It's late in the day, but I will post pictures of the belts in the next couple days. Oh, they were $10 bucks!! 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 (edited) Got down and installed the seatbelts today. Here's the goods: Had to extend the belt buckles to reach beyond the seat. Used a high powered sewing machine and nylon thread to bring them together. Much better than the original belts, plus they have the reels in them. Installed the rear tail light assemblies and all the lights work, but the license plate and reverse lights. Figured the plate light was just corroded, so I'll hopefully get it out tomorrow. As for the reverse lights, I wasn't running the truck, so maybe they'll work once I have it started. If not, I guess I'll get into that one also. Edited June 23, 2019 by 4perrev 3 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Anytime the key is on on a 521, the reverse light switch should have power. The switch is on the transmission. If you have a points coil, unplug the ignition coil, if you have the key on, engine off. Back probe the connectors on the transmission reverse light switch. Check for power to the switch, in neutral, or any forward gear. Reverse light switch wires are red, with a black stripe, on both sides of the switch. If you have power to the switch, put the transmission in reverse, you should have power on BOTH sides of the switch. The red, with a black stripe wire continues back to the reverse lights. Here is a 521 wiring diagram. 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Daniel, Thanks for the write up for the reverse light. I shall look into this after work today! The wiring diagram is top notch also. Will report back with the prognosis! 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 I cannot take credit for the wiring diagram, somebody else colored it. This page of one of my project threads details more about reverse lights repair. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521/page-4 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 That is a sweet write up on the process. I think I'll have to leave work early today to get back into it! Thanks again!! 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 (edited) So I intended to get on the reverse lights, but was redirected to the license plate light. It wasn't working and was really dirty or painted. I got the assembly freed from the ever lasting 40 year old rusted screws. The light bulb was burnt out and rusted into place, but came out with some pliers. The lens cover was had been painted twice over and I just couldn't let it go, for some reason. So, one part drill with buffing wheel, one part polishing compound and one part elbow grease, I got her cleaned. Although, there is still some rust stain on the inside, but it's back by the mount and ok. Here it is: Edited June 23, 2019 by 4perrev 2 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Molasses will remove rust off of steel, and iron. I would try that first. I have used the grocery store "Briar Rabbit" mixed about seven parts water, one part molasses. That mixture should not hurt the plastic lens. Another option is a phosphoric acid solution, like "metal conditioners", or navel jelly. Third option, vinegar. 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Molasses will remove rust off of steel, and iron. I would try that first. I have used the grocery store "Briar Rabbit" mixed about seven parts water, one part molasses. That mixture should not hurt the plastic lens. Another option is a phosphoric acid solution, like "metal conditioners", or navel jelly. Third option, vinegar. Sweet. I'll get into the vinegar and molasses. Don't know why it bugs me so much to have this lens clear, but I think it's a challenge. I'm doin the reverse lights tomorrow for sure! 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 I repaired the licence plate light, the front turn signal/park lights, and the side lights a while ago. I used silver rattle can paint on the inside of the light housing, and it really made the assembled lamp brighter. 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 (edited) I didn't paint the inside of the blinkers yet, but I'm going to once I pull them again to paint the truck. For now, I just want to get her driving for a few. It was raining today so I had to work inside for a change. Got my registration and license plates. The only thing is that looking at the truck, there is no plate holder assembly. What? Oh well, I just had to fab one up. So here's the goods: Template - And the finished back - And finished front - Mounting tomorrow! Edited June 23, 2019 by 4perrev 2 Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Is that for the rear? 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Yes it is. The reason for the bow tie or bracket is because the piece that holds the plate is missing some parts so I had to push it back to make it flat. I will post more oics as soon as I mount it to the truck. 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 (edited) So today was national "clean your bed day"! I got down and chassis savered my bed to stop the rest of the rust. Plan to wood out the bed because I don't think there is much metal left to support anything. Here's the two shots: Before- After- Oh, my baby is finally wearing her own plate!!! Edited June 23, 2019 by 4perrev 3 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 So my baby got new shoes today and is ready for the open road! After this, paint will come to beautify her. So exciting! 3 Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Wow dude great job. Looks great. I bet your happy you didn't sell it. 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Yeah, it was nice to keep her. I figured out a way to buy the dime. My wife really loves this truck and even more so now! Driving it after almost two years was quite a treat. Now I'm hooked! 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) Drove the truck to work today and she runs great. Man, I'm soooooo hooked that I went and bought a new stereo and speakers for the girl. Going to install the stock radio in the slot to keep her original, but hide the new one in the glovebox. I built some boxes for the rear and covered them in vinyl to keep them black a pretty. The fronts will have to be molded in fiberglass and attached to the kick panels. Just didn't want to cut holes in the door panels. Here's the rears: Edited June 23, 2019 by 4perrev 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 (edited) More progress on the inside going on. Had a pretty good couple days to work on her. So I wanted to do front speakers on the kick panels, but wasn't sure if I could do it since I've not really worked with fiberglass before. So, I just jumped in and did it. Here's how it went: Step 1. Use something round? Step 2. Cover round object to be able to reuse again. Step 3. Cover with fiberglass matt and staple to a board. Step 4. Apply resin and let dry. Here it is all dried and placed on the new kick panel cutout. After it was all mocked up and attached to the board, I covered it with vinyl and installed the speaker. It's a 4 inch speaker to give you a size idea. Here it is installed in the truck: I used the same material on the door panel and did a touch of embroidery. And placed the radio in the glovebox to keep the stock look. Lastly, I finally put the Weber on. Holysh!t that thing is so much better and I love it even more!!!! Let me know you think? Edited June 23, 2019 by 4perrev 3 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.