Home Automotive Painting Equipment?

[Kirden]

Alright, I am starting to gather more tools because lets face it, tools are fun :P

 

I will be picking up a 7" angle grinder tomorrow and possibly a dremel. I'm also looking at a palm sander but I have high hopes that the angle grinder and elbow grease will be enough to finish my projects without picking up massive amounts of tools. So here is my situation and overall plan:

 

I have a 74 620 with a horrid house paint job (rollers and paint brushes). I want to sand it to bare metal, do some repairs (should be fun to break out the welder), and do a primer/satin paint job at the house. Before this all takes place I will be grabbing a tarp style carport and a tarp for the floor (since I don't have a garage). I will also set up an intake and exhaust fan with filters (I need carbon filters for exhaust fan right?).

 

I have painted one car with the help of freinds before, and it was a rattle can job. I don't really want to do a rattle can job this time, but depending on the price of tools I may have to.

 

What setup have you guys used? I am looking for a low budget setup and as far as I have found, there are no places near me that will rent out their booth. I have never used a spray setup but I know that I do not have room for a huge tank, nor do I have that kind of money. Budget wise I am probably looking at $800 for the compressor and all the parts I need to run it correctly. If it is possible for less, that would be great.

 

I understand that I would be better off spending the $800 for a paint job, but I will also eventually paint my civic, and probably my mom's car. Plus having my own setup, even a small one, will make it easier if I decide to change something in the future.

[Laecaon]

I painted with a non hvlp gun from harbor freight, and a 110v 30 gal compressor(Home depot). I would have to wait for the compressor every now and then. But it wasnt too bad.

 

I think it would be a lot better if I had gotten an HVLP gun. (I mean about the waiting for the compressor, but probably also with how the paint laid down)

 

My results: I should have spent more time prepping, and more time practicing with the gun.

[Kirden]

Yea, I was looking at HVLP guns. I don't see any reason not to get them since I am doing a budget setup and I can't afford a massive compressor. I know a lot of people don't like harbor freight but I was looking at a 2.5hp, 125psi, 10gal compressor and a 1.8hp, 150psi, 17gal. I have no idea what I am looking at honestly but the 10gal is 5.3 CFM @ 90PSI, 17gal is 4 CFM @ 90PSI

[Dat Lurka]

[Kirden]

Hah, no thanks, that was how the current paint was done... It looks absolutely horrible.

 

 

Thanks for that though, edited the title :P

[Dat Lurka]

It's viable if done right. Prime it well and wet sand. Roll two coats, three if it needs it, then go back and color sand to perfection. I know a couple hot rod guys that roll acrylic and smooth it out to a perfect mirror finish. Don't take it down o the metal. Way more work than it's worth without some sort of blasting. Sand it down to whatever is sold then smooth it out with good primer. 

I post this pic a lot when discussing home auto painting. Rolled this 74' E100 and it turned out great. 

 

[DanielC]

Lets start with paint stuff.

My compressor.  It is three HP, not sure of the CFM.

My paint gun. 

An extra air tank.

This is what I do.  For running air tools, I run both tanks at the compressor pressure.  For painting, I run the second tank at around 40 PSI.

The paint gun is HVLP.  That means High Volume Low Pressure. 

When air is compressed, a few things happen.   Obviously, it get more dense.  At 90 psi you are putting about six gallons of air in a one gallon space.  It also get hot.

 

You want a high volume of cool dry air at the gun.  With the extra tank, here is what happens.  The pressure regulator is on the air compressor.  

High pressure, warm, (or hot) air goers through the regulator.  This drops the air pressure down, but I get a higher volume of air.  The air also cools when it expands at the regulator, and this also causes some of the water vapor to condense into water.  Water traps trap liquid water, not water vapor.  You will notice I have a water trap on the red hose, on the extra tank.  Any water that escapes the water trap just goes to the bottom of the tank, and stays there.

 

Long story short, my too small air compressor easily runs my HVLP gun.

 

My suggestion, if you get an air compressor, get a high speed die grinder.  It is basically a "dremel" but runs on air.   A dremel is basically a toy for home hobbyists. 

 

[DanielC]

Lets start with paint stuff.

My compressor.  It is three HP, not sure of the CFM.

My paint gun. 

An extra air tank.

This is what I do.  For running air tools, I run both tanks at the compressor pressure.  For painting, I run the second tank at around 40 PSI.

The paint gun is HVLP.  That means High Volume Low Pressure. 

When air is compressed, a few things happen.   Obviously, it get more dense.  At 90 psi you are putting about six gallons of air in a one gallon space.  It also get hot.

 

You want a high volume of cool dry air at the gun.  With the extra tank, here is what happens.  The pressure regulator is on the air compressor.  

High pressure, warm, (or hot) air goers through the regulator.  This drops the air pressure down, but I get a higher volume of air.  The air also cools when it expands at the regulator, and this also causes some of the water vapor to condense into water.  Water traps trap liquid water, not water vapor.  You will notice I have a water trap on the red hose, on the extra tank.  Any water that escapes the water trap just goes to the bottom of the tank, and stays there.

 

Long story short, my too small air compressor easily runs my HVLP gun.

 

My suggestion, if you get an air compressor, get a high speed die grinder.  It is basically a "dremel" but runs on air.   A dremel is basically a toy for home hobbyists. 

 

[thisismatt]

I won't comment on painting, cause I haven't really done it, but I will say...do not buy a Dremel brand rotary tool.  Dremels are crap.  Buy something decent like a Proxxon from Amazon.  I can't say enough bad things about Dremel...

[Kirden]

Lets start with paint stuff.

My compressor.  It is three HP, not sure of the CFM.

My paint gun. 

An extra air tank.

This is what I do.  For running air tools, I run both tanks at the compressor pressure.  For painting, I run the second tank at around 40 PSI.

The paint gun is HVLP.  That means High Volume Low Pressure. 

When air is compressed, a few things happen.   Obviously, it get more dense.  At 90 psi you are putting about six gallons of air in a one gallon space.  It also get hot.

 

You want a high volume of cool dry air at the gun.  With the extra tank, here is what happens.  The pressure regulator is on the air compressor.  

High pressure, warm, (or hot) air goers through the regulator.  This drops the air pressure down, but I get a higher volume of air.  The air also cools when it expands at the regulator, and this also causes some of the water vapor to condense into water.  Water traps trap liquid water, not water vapor.  You will notice I have a water trap on the red hose, on the extra tank.  Any water that escapes the water trap just goes to the bottom of the tank, and stays there.

 

Long story short, my too small air compressor easily runs my HVLP gun.

 

My suggestion, if you get an air compressor, get a high speed die grinder.  It is basically a "dremel" but runs on air.   A dremel is basically a toy for home hobbyists. 

____________________________

Thank you very much. I was wondering about water control, I have been reading as much as possible since I decided to go this route last weekend. That is interesting on the double tank setup and it makes sense that it would allow the air to cool before reaching the gun.

 

I will skip the dremel if possible but sadly I don't have the money for the air compressor this week and this is the week I plan to prep my new hood and cowl. I have a lot of surface rust on the cowl so I need something that can do the vents easily, or plenty of time with lots of elbow grease :P

 

I noticed that the gun says it needs a 5hp/13 gal setup, but you have not had any problems with it? I don't mind having to wait for the compressor but I would like to be able to finish entire panels at a time. Like doing at least the entire side of the bed before having to wait.

[Kirden]

I won't comment on painting, cause I haven't really done it, but I will say...do not buy a Dremel brand rotary tool.  Dremels are crap.  Buy something decent like a Proxxon from Amazon.  I can't say enough bad things about Dremel...

 

I had an old knock off from wally world that lasted forever till my cousin decided to throw it in the pool. I use the term dremel lightly becuase most likely it will be a cheap harbor freight knock off so I don't feel bad if it breaks and it has a 90 day warranty.

[Dat Lurka]

If you can drive it up here you can use my shop. I got a couple guns and a 60 gallon tank. Have some things we can practice on. 

[metalmonkey47]

Practice/prep is important. 

 

I used a cheap $20 Harbor freight HVLP with a 20 gallon compressor and it was a great setup. I spent a lot of time researching and learning using spare paints before spraying anything important though. It's easy to catch on to once you get the ball rolling.

[Kirden]

Dat Lurka I may take you up on that. I am still gathering parts and trying to figure out when I can take off enough time from work to do any decent trips.

 

Looks like I will just keep gathering tools and parts for now, but I still hope to prep the new hood and cowl this week so I can finally get rid of 50% of the known bondo. If I get froggy I may try to finish up the fenders as well but that depends on how long the hood and cowl take. Don't really like driving a daily without fenders around all the crazy rednecks. Find all kinds of stuff stuck in your vehicle...

 

Any tips on prep tools? Planning on picking up the grinder, wire wheel, sanding discs, and tons of assorted sanding paper. I'm still not sure about a palm sander or a small rotary tool. It would be nice to have something for small areas but maybe sanding paper will do the trick.

 

Anyone use those wet sanding blocks? We used wet sanding paper on the civic we rattle canned but I have never used the blocks.

[Dat Lurka]

An orbital, disc, wirewheel, and some blocks. 

No idea what a wet sanding block is but any sanding block will do. It helps to just set the hose where you are working and have it barely on.

[DanielC]

I can pretty much paint continuously, and the compressor will cycle off, and on.

 

For removing paint, I am really liking 3M clean and strip disks.  I have used this type, they have go on a spindle, and you can use them with a drill.

I also bought this kit from Eastwood.com

This kit has a backing pad, with Hook & Loop (velcro) attachment, and will go on an angle grinder.

[Dat Lurka]

^ The clean and strip disc are good and will take it down to the metal fast. They're not cheap and wear out pretty fast though. 

 

If you go disc you must absolutely get the velcro type. Stick on is just a waste of money.

[Kirden]

Alright, thanks for all the information :)

 

I'll head out to northern tool and harbor freight thursday to buy all the prep items. Probably going to buy some duplicolor primer and a matte clear to seal it till I can get everything ready for paint. I just want to deal with all the rust I can as soon as possible.

[Syncro]

Not to good on painting but sanding, that's something I can get behind. What I always did was get an empty Jug of some sort and put a small holde in it somewhere at the top. I'd shove a small hose down the hole close to the bottom, not sure what size the hose was but it's about as big around as a vac line but more hollow. After that I'd fill the jug with warm water and set it up ontop of the car or something that's higher then where I'm working and I'd set the tube where I need water on the car while I was wet sanding, worked well, pretty cheap, easy to make. As for the blocks I think your talking about the rubber blocks they have at home depo, those work well with dry or wet sanding.

[DanielC]

For wet sanding, I use the rubber blocks, but I use a spray bottle of Dawn dishwashing detergent and water.  A full spray bottle of water, and several to many drops of dishwashing detergent.  Also have a small bucket of just water.  

Spray the panel, and spray the block.  Sand a little, dunk the sanding block in the bucket, to rinse.  If there is some paint still on the sandpaper, spray that area with the spray bottle, that usually cleans off the sandpaper.

 

A word about getting consumable grinding disks at Harbor Freight.  They probably will not last very long.

 

Just one example,  I use 3 inch, 1/32 thick cutoff wheels a lot.  I got some at harbor freight, and that wore down very quickly.  On the other hand, I got some at a welding store, that sells to contractors, and professionals, as well as farmers, and "home hobbyists" and I was amazed by how long the cutoff disks actually last.

 

Same idea with the 3M clean and strip disks.  I bought the spindle mount ones 3 or 4 years ago, it was a package of 4, and I still have one I have not used yet.

[Kirden]

Yea, those rubber blocks were the ones I was talking about. Thanks again for all the help.

 

I will see if I can find a decent supply store for discs and blocks. I think Northern tool has a better selection than harbor freight but I can't afford all of the tools I need in name brands at the moment. I basicly have a $250 budget for the sander, discs, blocks, primer (spray paint for cheap :P ), wire for the welder, and whatever tools I am missing to finish my other projects this weekend. I am going to look at the difference in electric vs air if I find a good deal on the right size compressor, but I don't think $250 really allows for any compressor that would do the job. WTB more contractors selling used equipment near Macon.

[nismosilvia]

Spray paint primer is okay but its not great. You'll spend the same on spray cans because your going to have to use alot. I messed around with cans not worth it. A gallon of black enamel primer and the thinner will cost about 80 from Napa. Stronger and will prevent rust

[Dawa]

http://zilvia.net/f/archive-faqs/141460-how-paint-your-own-ride-under-300-a.html

 

PPE (personal protective equipment.)

take car of your eyes and lungs, especially when sanding/prepping.

get breathing protection thats rated for sanding. who knows if that old paint has lead in it?

 

 

also, maybe try to give a fuck about the environment and not let the dust go everywhere
(into the wind and eventually into water supplies.)

^this is my current stoppage point. garage is currently occupied and i dont have a place to set up

a 'sanding room' so the dust will be contained. its hard to have a grinder in one hand and a shop vac

in the other... grinders do come with a dust shroud that has a hook up to allow the shop vac hose to be

attached to it and those can almost cut the dust down 100% (theres videos.) but then another thing about that

is that the shop vac filter might not be able to contain the dust unless its hepa? i couldnt really come to a

conclusion with that...

 

also, if youre setting up a painting and or sanding room or using your garage, some guys use a

box fan with a house a/c style filter in front of it and have the fan blowing out/away (exhaust fan.)

[Kirden]

For the removable panels and doors I will be using an old trailer behind our place. Got permission from the owner to use it for sanding and striping the new panels. For paint and the rest of the body I will be using a PVC tarp enclosed car port with a tarp as the floor. I plan on using the same exhaist fan setup you described.

[Dantheman]

Just my 2 cents. I used paint stripper for the beginning stage. A little messy, but fast and affective. Tape off what you want to protect and lay down trash bags or old pizza boxes to catch what you scrape off. How ever you choose, have fun, there is not much more be be proud of than a job done by you.