pertronix vs matchbox

[domn8tr]

My matcbox dizzy lost its plastic plate that holds the advance plate bearings so i picked up a Pertronix and threw it in a single point distributor. The truck pretty much runs fine but is hard to start. For fun we busted open a known bad matchbox. I was suprised to see a small circuit board. Do they have advance curves? I see theres different ones listed on rockauto for different models ( 200sx, Z etc) With the matchbox i just touched the starter and vroom!! I timed both at 7 deg.

[ggzilla]

No advance curves whatsoever. There is a signal detector, signal amplifier, pulse generator, power transistor, lock-preventer, and current limiter in the matchbox unit.

 

When you put the pertronix in it is supposed to use a different coil (with a ballast resistor) and the plugs should be re-gapped to .031 - .035 inch.

[domn8tr]

I'm using the pertronix coil as well, I'll check my gaps.

[datzenmike]

My matcbox dizzy lost its plastic plate that holds the advance plate bearings so i picked up a Pertronix and threw it in a single point distributor. The truck pretty much runs fine but is hard to start. For fun we busted open a known bad matchbox. I was suprised to see a small circuit board. Do they have advance curves? I see theres different ones listed on rockauto for different models ( 200sx, Z etc) With the matchbox i just touched the starter and vroom!! I timed both at 7 deg.

 

 

Assume this is an L motor??? You can go 10-12 degrees advance on them. If the Pertronix is using a stock coil and ballast then the plug gap can be kept around 0.032". If you have the EI matchbox coil with higher output you can take advantage of the higher voltage and open it up near 0.040". This will more easily fire lean idle mixtures.

[ggzilla]

Pertronix should not be used with a high-energy coil. It requires a ballast resistor for warranty.

[datzenmike]

Ah.

[EricJB]

The determining factor for the pertronix needing a resistor or not, is the ohms rating of the coil. I have 4 of them, and none have a resistor. My oldest ignitor has resided in my sandrail for 15+ years with a MSD blaster coil and no resistor. Before that it was in a street/strip VW bug with the same coil. I bought it in the early 90's, and it has been through hell. Even with foam over the vent holes, and the cap sealed with clay, it still gets covered in sand. ( The motor gets drug through the sand on wheelies) I just blow it out and beat it some more. I have only warrantied one in 20+ yrs. The rivets came loose.

 

 

[ggzilla]

Yes, there are low-energy coils that include a built-in resistor, and they are typcially about 3 ohms. They are a combination coil+resistor. MSD Blaster coil is for multi-channel coil drivers. MSD Blaster 2/3 is a high-energy coil (0.7 ohms).

 

Pertronix Ignitor II works fine with a high-energy coil

Pertronix Ignitor "is designed for use with most point-type coils"

[Z-train]

Matchbox is a superior piece.

[Laecaon]

Unless I got the pertronix at a good price, I wouldnt bother.

[ggzilla]

The Pertronix for Datsun is kit #1741 -- it is the low energy kind.

 

Ignitor II #91741 is supposed to exist, but I've never seen anyone use it. Nor can I find one for sale.

[banzai510(hainz)]

The truck pretty much runs fine but is hard to start.The truck pretty much runs fine but is hard to start./

 

how you have this wired up? You have the hot start wire before or after tha ballast reisistor? Or you have no reisitor at all.

 

is the dizzy timed correctly? Ok I re read your post at 7deg so that should work. reck the vslve lash and intake carb tightness

[EricJB]

I'm using the pertronix coil as well, I'll check my gaps.

 

Check the ohms rating of the coil. Pertronix flamethrower coils come either way. The box should tell you what you have. If you are running an external resister on the coil that doesnt need one, you will be double resisted, sort of. I did that once and it was a cold blooded mother. Dont just take it off and try it though.

[banzai510(hainz)]

IF ONE HAS A 3 OHM PERTRONIX COIL you will hook up the hot start wire to the + side coil also. the BLK/BLU wire with the BLK/WHT wire.

get rid of ballast .

 

if you have a 1.5 ohm Pertronix coil use the stock ballast resisitor in series with the coil(like stock set up)

[domn8tr]

Checked it out today. The coil is 3 ohm. The black white wire was not on the coil. Don't know if it fell off or I f'd up. Don't know how it was grounding! LOL It started easier but I haven't driven it. I spent the afternoon fitting the Grant wood 14" wheel, perfect fit with the elusive 3575 adapter :)

[banzai510(hainz)]

If blk wht wire(RUN,ON) wadt hooked up it should not run.

Maight want to run IN the START mode if the blk/blu wire was hooked up to the +side coil thern let off key it should stop running.

[domn8tr]

Ouch I made a costly mistake. I left out the insulator cap in the kit and the hall trigger got arced to death. I threw in a single point for now but I've got another matchbox on the way. At least it starts again at the touch of the key

[sick620]

can a 1.5 ohm coil be used with a pertronix at all? I picked up a 1.5 ohm 40,000 flamethrower for cheap. but after looking online it says they are for v8's... what about with a balast resistor? 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Sick620

hook it up like stock. wih ballast resisitor.

Personally I would not do anything. What you have already is the same thing.

read the instructions in the pertronix.

 

the stock point coil set up would be the same what you have if you added the coil in the same place.

 

Pertronix needs about 3 ohms. stock coil is 1.6 and ballast is 1.6.

If you pulled out the stock coil and put the Flamthrow in and left the ballast in there it would be pretty much the same. The upgrade would be a Clean/newer looking coil. Thats it.